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Mantis Mini-Tiller Won't Start, Refuled after running empty


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07-10-05, 09:43 PM   #1  
Mini-Tiller Won't Start, Refueled after running empty

I purchased an older model Mantis Mini-Tiller (SV-2AE) on ebay, owner said it had sat for a while and couldn't get it started. I took it to a local shop and had the carb rebuilt and it ran ok until it ran out of gas. Refilled and now it won't start. I thought it was flooded so I pulled the plug, tugged the line a few times because I read this would solve the problem by clearing out the fuel. The plug was fouled so I replaced it and still nothing. I have taken the carb apart and soaked in carb cleaner and still nothing. Even when it was running I had to keep the throttle on a little to keep it running, it stalled out at idle. If there' s no spark ( checking this next), would it have the symptoms of a flooded engine? I'm new to these engines, when I first bought it and tried starting it I had mistakenly held the throttle a few times, it's making the same muffled sound when I try to start it now (without throttle). Also makes a hissing sound when I pull the cord slightly before a full pull. Maybe this is normal I don't know.
p.


Last edited by Stumped1; 07-12-05 at 07:58 AM.
 
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07-11-05, 03:01 PM   #2  
The only thing that could hapen fefueling when hot is a fire.Ans nothing at all bout over filling the tank,Take the muffler off and check for clog ,eighter muffler or ports.A cloged air filter will cause one not to crank too.Have you even got spark out of the plug wire??Could have even sheird a flywheel key,throwing the engine out of time.Check for water in fuel too.

 
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07-11-05, 03:26 PM   #3  
It has spark, if the muffler is in the same place as the spark arrestor screen then I have taken that off and cleaned it with carb cleaner(as well as the spark arrestor). There's a small, silver grill type thing about 2 inches tall on the front near the gas tank, is this the muffler? One thing I did notice is there's a little gas on the air filter when I remove it, if I squeeze it a few drops of gas come off.

Thanks.

 
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07-12-05, 12:22 PM   #4  
The spark arrestor screen is indeed on the muffler but in order to see if the ports is cloged your're gona have to take the muffler off of the cylinder.Clean the corbon desposits from the holes.(useing a small piece of wood)then blow carbon out of the cylinder.Shine a light into the holes behind the muffler.You're looking for scars and scrached in the cylinder or on the piston/ring(s).If so there's no hope for tiller.
On the other hand if not,good,the fuel getting on the air filter sounds to me like your carb.is out of ajustment or just needs an old-fashoned cleaning.If none of these show no promise,check the flywheel key.If broken or any mark on sides at all will throw the engine out of time an it wont start for love or money.

 
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07-13-05, 01:09 AM   #5  
Sounds to me like your carb is flooding the engine. Did the repair shop rebuild the carb? Or just clean it?


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07-13-05, 08:34 AM   #6  
It was rebuilt, my guess was flooding however I don't know what to do if it is. I took the carb apart and soaked it in some carb/fuel injector cleaner (local auto parts store doesn't stock the Napa 1 gal product I see recommended here). I did not break it down entirely though I did remove the cover to the area where the diaphragm is housed, in there is another type of gasket with a circular silver piece on it, I don't know what this is called. I was going to try this again, this time completely dismantling all areas to see if I get better results.

Looking at the parts layout in the manual I don't see a 'float" or "bowl" listed. The engine is a Echo and the Carb is Walbro if this helps. Thanks.

 
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07-13-05, 10:21 PM   #7  
I agree with cheese.And a 2 cycle carburetor has no float it needs diaphragms so it will always pulling the fuel it needs to run,no matter in what position.

It just needs a good cleaning and a new carb.diaphragm/gasket kit.Todays gasoline doesn't lest more then 30 days.Then it starts to ruin and it hardens the rubber diaphragms couseing them not to work.It's OK.in a multi-cylinder engine,like a car or truck.But it plays havic on a one cylinder engine.

 
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07-13-05, 11:03 PM   #8  
Thanks. I attempted a start today and it was dripping out of the cylinder and exhaust it was flooding so bad. I plan to get a kit, soak it in a quality cleaner and see what happens. When I go to put the new diaphragm back does the silver round piece face downward towards the opening? Why would it suddenly start flooding if it was recently rebuilt and running? The only thing I did was refill the tank when it was empty. And I plan to upgrade the gas cap, this one's really old and it doesn't appear to have the venting that the new ones I've seen for sale have.

This is a great website, one of the best I've found (for anything DIY).

 
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07-13-05, 11:26 PM   #9  
What do you mean by "And I plan to upgrade the gas cap, this one's really old and it doesn't appear to have the venting that the new ones I've seen for sale have."If the fuel cap isn't venting ,as I mention earlyer,the engine isn't gona run worth a crap.In fact if fully cloged the engine will only run for 5-10 minutes,maybe 15.

But if carburetor diaphragm isn't working you can put a dab of gas into air filter opening and the engine only runs maybe just 1 second....

And the silver piece of metal on the diaphragm goes down.
AN as to"Why would it suddenly start flooding if it was recently rebuilt and running?"

This depends,trash might have got in the fuel from your gas can and you not notice it.In that case try frash clean fuel mix.

 
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07-14-05, 08:40 AM   #10  
The gas cap on this one doesn't have the venting holes, it has a funnel shaped metal piece inside, this may be the venting device and is ok. If it won't improve the performance I'll keep it as is. Is it ok to soak the muffler when I soak the carb, will it damage the muffler? I figure I might as well get everything cleaned up at once.

Thanks.

 
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07-14-05, 09:22 AM   #11  
No,it wont hurt to soak the muffler.All thow I dont know if soaking it will eat up the carbon thats gona be inside.What I always do is get on concrete or on the dirt away from anything,fill the muffler with gasoline,set fire to it and let her burn.

Keeping an eye on it of corse,and tapping it from time to time to help get all the carbon knocked lose.

B 4 U do all that,will the engine crank and run whitout the muffler on it???

 
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07-14-05, 09:48 AM   #12  
I haven't tried that. What does it mean if it runs without the muffler?

 
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07-14-05, 12:26 PM   #13  
If your engine runs without a muffler,that means that the muffler is still cloged up some where.Your gona have to burn the carbon deposits out as mentioned or,if you cant you have to buy another one.But DON"T let it run 4 long without a muffler.It's not good on the engine to run 4 long without a muffler.

 
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07-15-05, 02:33 AM   #14  
I don't think your problem is with the muffler, and I really don't reccomend trying to fill it with gas and setting it on fire. If the engine does run right without the muffler, then it probably is clogged, but from your description of gas dripping out the carb, it sounds like your needle is not seating, or you have other carb problems.


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07-15-05, 05:15 PM   #15  
I see two needles in the carb parts diagram in the manual.

A idle needle, and a high speed needle. What do you mean by needle not seating? How do I correct the problem?

 
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07-16-05, 12:35 AM   #16  
The needle that Cheese is talking about is under the mettering diaphragm(the piece of rubber with a metal plate made on it.)Those,you saw is the adjustment screws.

Clean inside of the carburetor really good with carb/choke cleaner or soak it in bath type carb.cleaner.Put the kit in,clean fuel tank/line.Add fresh fuel mix.That should doo it.Run adjustment screws in till lightly closed then back both out 1 turn,crank run till worm then adjust each screw till sounds to please.

 
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07-16-05, 07:52 PM   #17  
Well the soak worked, started up on the first pull. Unfortunately I broke the throttle control shaft while reassembling the carb so I can't control the speed. I found a local small engine parts dealer so assuming they have the throttle shaft I'm good to go and ready to aerate next weekend.

Thanks Cheese and Repair Guy for all your help and advice.

 
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07-16-05, 11:33 PM   #18  
Great! Glad we could help!


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