OLD Toro Mower

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  #1  
Old 07-14-05, 07:34 PM
DougDC
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OLD Toro Mower

Hey guys,
I was just given an OLD Toro mower. (I'm guessing circa 1979-80ish) Apparently it ran ok until my neighbor let it sit for 2 years. It will start and run, if i dump gas directly into the carb. It stops, unfortunately, as soon as that gas is gone. I've read into the threads here by about 25 pages, so i have a bunch of ideas what to look for. I'm just wondering where i should start looking first. I'm assuming it gets spark since it will start if you dump gas in the carb. I'm also fairly certain that fuel flow is not the problem, since i took the fuel line off the carb, and was rewarded with an immediate drip. I'd greatly appreciate any and all advice!
Thanks, Doug
 
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  #2  
Old 07-14-05, 08:26 PM
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Location: Marion,Al.
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I'm I'm assuming that your toro has got a Tecumseh engine on it.And since it will start with a little prime but goes dead,the carburetor is stoped up.Take it off the engine,Take it apart and clean real good.Take special notice to clean the hole out that's between the threads of the bowl nut,it's a tiny hole but it'll keep an engine from running.
 
  #3  
Old 07-15-05, 08:18 AM
DougDC
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Repair Guy,
Thank you for your time, and your advise. i removed, disassembled the carb, and cleaned it as best i could. I'm not sure if it has a Tecumseh motor or not. The carb says Mikuni Corp. on it. The top of the engine says GT-OHV. The bowl nut on the carb didn't have any holes in it. It was pretty short with only 4 threads, but no hole. i cleaned as much of the carb as i could, but it is still having the same problem. when i took it apart, the bowl was full. after i replaced it, after cleaning, found the trouble still existed, and took it apart again, the bowl was empty. I think it must be a carb problem, but now i'm unsure what more to do. Any more ideas?

Thanks again, Doug
 
  #4  
Old 07-15-05, 03:02 PM
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DougDC,

You most certainly will have to do a more thorough cleaning. Being you had no gas in the bowel after removal of the bowel would indicate your needle is hanging in the seat or trash has worked it's way down into the seat.

To perform a thorough cleaning you need to disassemble the carb in a well lighted, clean place. You will need a can or two of carb cleaner and if you can, compressed air. Also, remove the tank;clean thoroughly and replace any fuel line and filter.

The screw "repair_guy" referred to should have one or two very tiny holes at the base and in the middle of the bolt. If you have an adjustment screw instead of a bolt you will need to remove the needle from the bolt and clean very well. You may have an idle mixture screw that needs the same treatment. After removing the main jet bolt from the bowel; turn the carb upside down and directly spray carb cleaner through the emulsion tube. You may need to remove the “Welch” plugs and clean the very tiny metering holes with cleaner and fishing line. If you have to go this far to clean you will need a rebuild kit that contains new o-rings and “Welch” plugs.

If the tube "Emulsion Tube" in the center under the bowel nut is not spick and span and the main jet bolts holes are not perfectly clean you will not get fuel flow to the intake. I'm sure if you cean, very well, all the above, you will get this machine to fire.

If you remove the idle mixture screw for cleaning, readjust as follows:

Replace screw with all washers and o-rings. Screw down easy until it just seats. Back out one turn. This will get you up and running. Adjust back and forth at idle for best running afterwards.

God Bless,
Dave
 

Last edited by dave237; 07-15-05 at 03:13 PM.
  #5  
Old 07-16-05, 02:32 PM
DougDC
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Dave237,
Thanks so much for the advice! I believe what i am going to do is buy the kit to rebuild the carb if i can find it. The carb looks very clean, all except the small important parts, of course! When i get the kit, ill let you know how it turns out! by the way, does the pin that holds the float in just slide out? If it's supposed to, me thinks its in BAD shape. heh.

Thanks again, Doug
 
  #6  
Old 07-16-05, 04:08 PM
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Yes, the pin that holds the float slides out from the side. You can use needle nose pliers to remove it. While you have the flaot out, submerge it in water for a while then remove and shack it about. There should be no water inside.

There are very very tiny metering holes deep inside that you can not see. Only carb cleaner can reach these holes. Just a tiny spec of dirt in one of these holes can prevent fuel flow. I can give you even more details and the correct part#s if I new the exact carb you have. The numbers should be stamped on the front of the enigine's flywheel cover.

God Bless,
Dave
 
  #7  
Old 10-17-08, 03:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Question

i have a toro self propelled walk behind.i had it 2 years,and problem that i am having is that when i pull the starter carded it jerk backout of my hand can someone help me?


thanks
isaiah
 
  #8  
Old 10-17-08, 03:59 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
Question

i have a toro self propelled walk behind.i had it 2 years,and problem that i am having is that when i pull the starter carded it jerk backout of my hand can someone help me?


thanks
isaiah
 
  #9  
Old 10-17-08, 04:24 PM
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Location: St. Louis
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As a quick suggestion, you have one of two possible problems, one, the blade is not attached or not attached properly, two, you have sheared the flywheel key. First check the blade and if everything is ok down there then it will be necessary to remove the flywheel and replace the key. Have a good one. Geo
 
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