Masonry saw won't saw!

I have purchased a used Masonry Saw from E-bay, name brand Husqvarna 14 inch gas cut off saw.

Problem: It starts and runs great, purrs like a kitten, in fact, when I got the saw delivered and started the saw I was so pleased that I did not get badly ripped off. I proceeded to get a Diamond blade for it and a belt that it was missing. The troubles started when I tried to actually cut block, when in the process of cutting block it seems to bog down, and the power level is terrible, but when I stop sawing and rev the engine, it runs fine, I do not notice any weird smoke such as blue or black, and after I have managed to saw through a couple of block it wants to shut down no mater what I do with the choke adj. it seems as though when it gets to certain operating temp. it quits. If I wait and restart and saw, again, it does this again, gets hot shuts off, only after around five or so minutes of sawing. What am I to do with this saw, is it do you think, salvagable? Help Help Help

 

mowpar,

Have you checked the spindle for free rotation after the engine dies? Does the engine run at a steady fast speed before cutting? When the engine dies does it slowly reduce speed as you cut or is the speed reduction very abrupt when the cutting starts?

Also, what are your engine numbers? They should be printed on the fly wheel
cover.

God Bless,
Dave237

 

On the side of the saw is a model number (I think) 272K.

It dies down with a bogging and just when you think you have time to choke it, to keep it going it is to late.


The spindle and its free rotation, I have never checked and would not know how, even if I were asked to do so.



Before cutting I can rev the engine up until its scary and the thing does not even think about stopping until I stop reving it up, if this were all it needed to do, I would say that I had the best saw in the world , I mean, it sounds that good, but when resistance is applied it slows down consideralbly, then I do not want to push the saw into the work for fear that it will shut down quickly, so I baby it through the cut and it cuts slowly but then it just quits after a few minutes of this.

Then if I try to start it right after this, it will not stay running, even though I am trying to choke it at varying rates, it does no good, just time passing will alow it to start and then the process is repeated.

The only thing physically that I can see is wrong with the saw is the cover that is over the air filter has a gasket, part of it is there and part of it is not, I do not know if this air flow through were this gasket should be could cause all of this to happen or not.

Thanks for your help.

 

mowpar,

I was trying to learn if the spindle or should I say shaft that the diamond blade rotates on is hard to turn after this bogging down cycle? If you can rotate it by hand; (with little effort) after the engine dies; then all is well with its rotation.

The carb gasket leak does concern me however, I would think that you have a governor problem being that you can rev this engine however; revving and chocking an engine are two completely different things.

The throttle will rev the engine. If choke is applied while running good you should over enrich the fuel (lack of air) and cause a rich (black smoke) flooding condition.

It seems that maybe your carb bowel, if it has one, as I'm not sure due to the lack of your engine number, could be running dry due to a fuel line swell, gas filter clogged or inlet needle hang. This would cause it to run low of fuel and starve of gas when in the middle of doing business. This can only be confirmed by your correct engine number?

The number you supplied is not an engine number. Please, reply back with the number stamped on the top of your engines fly wheel cover? Is it a 4 cycle briggs, ETC. Only with this number can we all help!

God Bless!
Dave237

 

NUmber on outside just adjacent to pull apparatus cover chrome tag with this number 6040146

Written on plastic shroud cover just undeneath pull start cover:
E.M. 50d1 65 92-01
Made in Sweden

written on finned armature V1-2

Further info to add, I took off the cover to expose the filters, one I cleaned in gas, I believe this to be the filter that should be coated with oil, the other a paper filter that seems to collect all the dust from the block cuttings.

The dust protection filter seemed to be clean enough, if I were to bang it on a block no dust would emit from it, I have used these saw for ten years and never had a breathing problem from a filter this clean But in ()"s

I decided to see if I could rule out an air flow problem so I ran the saw with out either filter on, and it ran just as good, but when I tried to saw with the filters completely off, it sailed through the block with out hesitation. I do not know had I continued whether it would have heated up, and eventually bogged and shut off or not. I did not continue to saw for fear of dust getting into exposed carb intake and fouling things up.

I put filters back on after cleaning thoroughly and same problem as before, when bogging occurs it does not affect the turning of the blade, after bogging and to the point when the engine shuts down the blade continues tio turn freely for a long time. Hope this info helps you to further help me Thanks again

I guess I am going to have to order filters for the saw now on top of the belt and the blade. I am going the wrong way with this venture, but I cannot afford a new 1000 dollar saw so I have not much choice, Again Thanks

 

Is is possible that the filters are not the correct ones and are restricting flow when the motor is at full load? If it runs fine without them, I would suspect they are the culprits. It shouldn't cost too much to change them.

 

The filters are the right one, as I have said I have used many of these saw and have had to take apart and clean and change filters so that is not the problem.

I was just outside playing around with the saw again, and as I said it runs good with the filters out, so I thought that I would put the saw back together with out the filters and guess what it would not run then either, I took off the covers for the filters and left everthing exposed and began cutting and it cut like a new saw but woth no protection from dust.

I am pretty good when it comes to working on pre computer chip cars and to me this sounds like there is one little thing causing this to happen, maybe there is a gas filter bad or carb jet stopped up gas line problem, I do not know because I am totally in the dark about these engines.

 

I think you are on the right track if you can make it run consistently different and better without the filter in place.
http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/ under the support tab click on manuals. I searched for 272k with no results except for an accessory case, but that is the model # of your power cutter/saw. Search for 371 or 375 in the manual search, its possible some of the trouble shooting and other items may be similar.
It does sound like a fuel delivery problem. Check the manuals for the other engines for carburetor adjustments. If you have a walbro carb, the steps should be the same.
Restriction in the exhaust is a possibility but not a likely one as these mufflers usually have no spark arrestor.
Due to recent experience I would not rule out ignition as a possible problem. Wet sludge is not a very suitable environment for electrical components. These components are more prone to failure and can exhibit different symptoms than similar counterparts used in other applications.
At the very least you can find support contact information from the website.
GL and keep us updated.

P.S. Keep all the #'s you have and can find on the saw. If you do contact Husq for help, those will all be usefull

 

The link you provided when you got down to the place where they were actually going to answer your questions simply stated that it is impossible to try to tell you how to fix your saw over the e-mail system, this whole link is set up not to help but to advertise.

Where did you get wet sludge from, I am dry cutting with my saw no water added.

 

Manuals with instructions that may or may not apply to your saw are provided on the site.
Since it is a newly purchased item, perhaps you would have better luck inquiring of the seller.

 

The saw is not new just new to me. it is probabley 4 years old that is why they did not have a manual for it. I accessed the sight but was unable to get anything from it, I guess I just do not know the proper way through there site.

 

Ok, the gasket between the filter and carb intake should be addressed and the saw should not be run without the filter when cutting block (as you already know) because masonry dust will wipe the engine quickly.

If it runs good with the filter off as long as the filter cover is off, but not with the cover on, then I would say either the carb needs cleaning/adjusting, or the engine isn't getting enough air into the air filter housing. Most of these saws have air induction I believe, so air supply to the filter housing shouldn't be an issue if this engine has air induction.

By your description, it sounds like the carb may be leaning out. Try backing out the H screw on the carb about 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see how it does.

 

After trying all the suggestions given by this board, I decided to give in and take the saw to the saw shop. The saw shop called back and informed me that the saw would need completely rebuilt, at a cost of 970 dollars. This price is just under the price of a new one. I decided to get a new Stilh saw at a cost of 870 dollars now the diamond blade that fit the other saw will not fit the new saw. The new saw has a smaller arbor. Do stores sell washers that will fit in the old saw blade that will adapt it to the new smaller arbor?

I do not want to get a new saw blade just yet, as these diamond saw blades are expensive, and this one is practically brand new.

As always thanks for your help.

What do you think about over 900 dollars to fix an 11oo dollar saw?

 

mowpar,

I kind of doubt that it will cost this much to rebuild this engine. This engine can be re-ringed with a valve job for much much cheaper. At least ($500.00) cheaper. This would also include boring the cylinder, if needed. However, you would have to do the rebuild yourself. If you are inclined and if you would like to take on the task; I'm sure there is enough wisdom here to get you to the end.

Diamond blades are very expensive and I know of no safe insert for a smaller arbor. These blades have knock outs and if your blade's knock out has been removed then there is no safe way to mate the blade to the smaller arbor.

It sounds as if you were sold a saw that was not what it was advertised however, I'm sure it can be put in good running order for much less than ($970).

God Bless,
Dave237

 

Thanks for all your help. The saw I have given to my brother and he is going to take it to his, guy that works on his mixer motor.

 

mowpar,

I'm remorseful that you gave up on it! This engine will be repaired for much much less than the quote you were given. I do wish the very best!!!

God Bless,
Dave237