Rebuilt Weedwacker won't start

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  #1  
Old 08-16-05, 06:34 PM
mikekeester
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Rebuilt Weedwacker won't start

Hi all -

I have a Craftsman 25cc Weedwacker (yeah, I know...it was cheap ) Model 358.795590. Approx 2 years old.

It got dropped one too many times and cracked the crankcase housing causing the flywheel to become unbalanced which melted the plastic clutch housing - ugh!

Anyways, I ordered all of the replacement parts from sears, tore it all the way down, and rebuilt it with with fresh gaskets and filters (even put on a new piston ring since I broke the original taking it apart ).

Here's my problem. Since the rebuild, I can only get the thing started by squirting starter fluid directly into the carb. Once started, it won't idle and only stays running with the choke on full. I have no throttle response and if I let it die, I can't get it restarted again without spraying more fluid (even though it's warmed up).

The high/low screws have the plastic limiter caps so I can't really mess with those and I reset the idle screw according to the manual (backed it off 4 1/2 turns).

Before the rebuild, I never had a problem starting it and it ran like a champ. I didn't even touch the carb during the rebuild except to change the gaskets and the primer bulb squirts gas just fine. I'm thinking it could be a vaccum leak but I can't really see where. There's only 3 gaskets - carb =>adapter =>intake =>head. Everything's nice and tight.

What do you think? Should I go ahead and rebuild/replace the carb too? Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks

Oh, I forgot to mention that I also changed the spark plug so it's not that either.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-16-05, 11:39 PM
cheese's Avatar
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Hello mikekeester!

Neat handle!

It does sound like a vacuum leak may be the problem, but could also be the carb. How long did it sit unused before it was repaired? If it was a long time, then the carb may need attention. If not, the plastic crankcase cover may be letting air in. I imagine you've got as much or more invested in this thing with parts alone, let alone labor, than it's worth. These aren't really designed to be rebuilt and often never work well once disassembled. Too much plastic that warps and leaks.
 
  #3  
Old 08-17-05, 09:09 AM
mikekeester
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I'll check the back crankcase cover. I changed the rubber o-ring but didn't really check to make sure it was seated.

To answer your question, it started up easily and was running just before I tore it apart. The off-balance flywheel was causing too much vibration and it was only after I took the housings off that I noticed all of the internal damage.

You're right in that with the cost of the parts I could've bought a whole new one. It was one of those things where I started off thinking it was just a simple problem and before you know it.....

I don't mind tinkering and it was kind of fun to tear it apart and put it back together - reminds me of high school shop class. At this point, it's more of a pride thing just to see if I can get it running again.

What's funny is that I used to always stick with Craftsman because of their reputation for quality. I guess that only applies to their hand tools now.

I'll re-check the gaskets for leaks and soak the carb for while. If that doesn't work, I guess it'll be a featured item at my next garage sale.
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-05, 06:17 PM
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mikekeester,

Like the handle too.

I agree with Cheese. A common mistake is not cleaning all carb ports and passages thourghly. After the soaking;include a very good blast of carb cleaner followed by compressed air. I just finished my own 2 cycle carb cleaning with your problem. I had to remove the carb twice. With the second cleaning, I really hit all passages and ports with heavy air flow. It did the trick.

God Bless,
Dave237
 
  #5  
Old 08-30-05, 08:01 PM
mikekeester
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Got it Going!

Finally got around to playing with it again last week and found the problem. It was indeed a vaccum leak.

The plastic adapter that goes between the carb and the intake had a small crack in it that I didn't notice before. Apparently I was a little too zealous in tightening down the carb bolts and cracked it.

Another $10 at Sears.com and I'm back in business.

I also noticed that the crackcase screws weren't quite snug so I tightened those down. Not sure if that was contributing to the problem or not.

Now I just need to keep it running for the next 5 years so I can recoup the amount of money I've spent on it

Thanks for your help guys.
 
  #6  
Old 08-31-05, 01:32 AM
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Quote: "Now I just need to keep it running for the next 5 years so I can recoup the amount of money I've spent on it "

Haha....with all the new parts on it, it should be as good as new, so you should be able to get at least a good year and a half out of it! (joking!!!)

Glad you found the problem, and thanks for keeping us updated!
 
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