Briggs Intek 18hp In Craftsman Lt2000mower

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  #1  
Old 08-22-05, 12:02 PM
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Briggs Intek 18hp In Craftsman Lt2000mower

I have a 2 year old craftsman mower model LT2000. I bought it new and it runs great. I change the oil regularly and havent had any problems with it at all. My concern is how noisy this engine is. The valves seem quite noisy on this and the bottom end at idle sounds like it's going to come apart. It doesnt use any oil and I adjusted the valves a couple times.

Are these engines typically noisy? And does anyone have an engine repair manual on this engine in pdf format? Thanks for replys

Briggs 18hp intek
 
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  #2  
Old 08-22-05, 12:28 PM
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alwayz,

These overhead valve engines can be very "ticky" sounding. I've heard some of these that are very quite. It seems that it gets worse with age. The ticking is due to the push rods driving into the rocker arms. Your engines manuel can be down loaded at the briggs website:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/dis...sp?docid=78484

God Bless,
Dave237
 
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Old 08-23-05, 01:02 AM
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Have you adjusted the valves? Is it a V twin?
 
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Old 08-23-05, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cheese
Have you adjusted the valves? Is it a V twin?


Yep i did the valves and no its not a twin. I figured the upper end would be a little noisy but the bottom end surprises me on this engine
 
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Old 08-24-05, 12:15 AM
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Has it always sounded like it does now? One thing I've seen quite often is loose engine mounting bolts. They let the engine move while running, making a knocking sound. A loose engine pulley bolt could also cause this, by letting the pulley key knock on the crankshaft keyway when running.
 
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Old 08-24-05, 01:43 AM
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Cheese,

I'm paying attention! I will adjust my mounting bolts tomorrow! Thanks....

God Bless You,
Dave237
 
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Old 08-24-05, 04:53 AM
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I never even gave that a thought.......good answer. thank you....i'll check it out this weekend and give an update. thank you soo much
 
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Old 08-25-05, 07:30 PM
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I hope that helps!

I just now noticed that my first reply to this thread was a bonehead question... You stated in the original post that you have adjusted the valves, but what did I ask right off the bat?? Yep...I wasn't payin' attention I guess. Forgive my mental flatulence .
 
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Old 08-25-05, 08:04 PM
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Cheese,

Please don't, (and I hope you did not take it that way), that what I input was being a bad remark. I did, indeed adjust the mounting bolts on one of my six mowers that I am slowly learning how to maintain and yes, they were lose. I learn through your advice for which I watch with a keen eye and I am grateful for.

Your reply here made a light come on in my head that lead me to a problem I had for about three months and now I know why the knocking.... Loose mounting bolts!

Thank you and all the rest of the knowledgeable guy's here for all the wisdom you have provided for all of us. Without you; and the continued input; this forum would not be what it is, a wealth of info and a must have for the do it yourselfer!

Sincerely and God Bless,
Dave237
 
  #10  
Old 08-26-05, 07:28 AM
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ok....

I checked the bolts and they are tight, I checked the pulley...there is no play. So I took the piston to BDC and spun the pulley a little back and forth. I did feel a little slop in the rod bearing. How much is normal? It doesnt feel to bad but is there s'pose to be a zero tolerance there?

also.....is that a needle bearing type setup for the rod or like the 2 piece automotive style?

 
  #11  
Old 08-26-05, 09:11 AM
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alwayz,

I have found that most well used rod bearings will have some play that gets worse with age although, when new, they're nice and snug and there tolerance is (.0005) max play. I have an older Briggs engine that really gets to knocking once it gets hot and it has the same slop when rotating by hand however, it's still going strong.

The rod and cap seem to get worn out of round through the years however, failure rate is low unless abused and even then you have to try hard before it fails. This engine indeed has the two piece, rod with bearing cap.

There is a complete parts break down for this engine at the Briggs site I listed earlier in this thread.

God Bless,
Dave237
 
  #12  
Old 08-26-05, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dave237
alwayz,


There is a complete parts break down for this engine at the Briggs site I listed earlier in this thread.

God Bless,
Dave237

I looked thru that list earlier and found the conn rod....but no bearings listed separate. this mower is only 2 years old.....it sounds like its 10. I think i'm gonna borrow a bore scope and make sure the walls are still good. thanks
 
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Old 08-26-05, 03:25 PM
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alwayz,

They are no bearing inserts. The surface of the rod and cap are machined for the bearing surfaces that mate directly to the crank pin.

In the engine I mentioned earlier, the knock was really bad using straight 30. I was able to tame it down to a comfortable level by using pure synthetic 10w 30. There are only a few companies such as Mobil One that sells true synth and IMHO, it's worth it.

God Bless,
Dave237
 
  #14  
Old 08-26-05, 08:02 PM
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Dave237,

I didn't think you made any negative remark at all! No problems here (not sure what might have made you wonder). My previous reply was made because I had just re-read the entire thread and noticed that my first question was "did you adjust the valves", and if I had payed close enough attention, I would have seen that he had already stated that the valves were adjusted. I was embarrassed that I asked the obvious.

You're input here has been valuable to the forum as well, and has not gone unappreciated. I thank you for your activity in this forum, and hope you stick around for a long time!

Alwayz,

Dave is correct....there are no replaceable bearings on the rod. Replacement of the rod is required to restore acceptable rod clearance. Depending on how bad it is, you might be better off going ahead and replacing the rod before it does break (which in some cases ruins the entire engine by busting a hole in the block). The balancer also can be a cause of a good knock in these engines. The top bearing surface in the balancer is usually the one to go first. These engines usually last as long or longer than the equipment they are bolted to, so yours seems to be the exception to the rule. Without actually hearing it myself, I don't know I'd worry about it or not. Maybe it's worth looking at before it has a catastrophic failure.
 
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Old 08-26-05, 08:18 PM
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Thanks Cheese!
 
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Old 08-29-05, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by cheese
Dave237,
The balancer also can be a cause of a good knock in these engines. The top bearing surface in the balancer is usually the one to go first. These engines usually last as long or longer than the equipment they are bolted to, so yours seems to be the exception to the rule. Without actually hearing it myself, I don't know I'd worry about it or not. Maybe it's worth looking at before it has a catastrophic failure.

As soon as the mowing season closes I'm gonna pull the motor, split the case and see what is happening in there. Someone else had also told me that the balancers are bolt on and could cause this noise. I just hope it holds together till then.

Thanks for the input on this matter all.
 
  #17  
Old 08-29-05, 11:49 PM
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Let us know what you find when you crack it open!
 
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