Carb issues w/ BS 16hp 2cyl...
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Carb issues w/ BS 16hp 2cyl...
Hello all...Maybe you guys can help me out with something...First the facts:
Craftsman YTV16 Varidrive 917.252933
B&S 16hp 2cyl - 402707 0132-07
I purchased it used and it came in a no-start condition...I checked for spark and it's fine but I know it's not getting any fuel...I replaced the degrading lines and filter but still no spark, so obviously I need to remove the carb and clean it, unfortunately, I have zero experience with this 2-cyl carb...I've worked on a few smaller carbs (4hp+/- engines) but this one is quite different: below the choke butterfly there is another smaller butterfly and I have no idea why, heheh...Thanks in advance for any assistance...
Craftsman YTV16 Varidrive 917.252933
B&S 16hp 2cyl - 402707 0132-07
I purchased it used and it came in a no-start condition...I checked for spark and it's fine but I know it's not getting any fuel...I replaced the degrading lines and filter but still no spark, so obviously I need to remove the carb and clean it, unfortunately, I have zero experience with this 2-cyl carb...I've worked on a few smaller carbs (4hp+/- engines) but this one is quite different: below the choke butterfly there is another smaller butterfly and I have no idea why, heheh...Thanks in advance for any assistance...
#2
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 230
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
San-Man,
The second flap behind the choke flap is the throttle flap. This carb is indeed a bit busier than most however, if you go slowly you should not have that much trouble with it.
Your fuel supply problem is most likely a leaking diaphragm in the pump. The pump is built into the side of this carb. I would disassemble this first and replace the diaphragms. This might save a lot of time and a carb recon.
God Bless,
Dave237
The second flap behind the choke flap is the throttle flap. This carb is indeed a bit busier than most however, if you go slowly you should not have that much trouble with it.
Your fuel supply problem is most likely a leaking diaphragm in the pump. The pump is built into the side of this carb. I would disassemble this first and replace the diaphragms. This might save a lot of time and a carb recon.
God Bless,
Dave237
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
When I replaced the fuel line I added a fuel filter which happens to be clear...When I tried turning the engine over the fuel was drawn easily through the lines and filter, so does that eliminate the diaphragms as an issue?
#4
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 230
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
San-Man,
Fuel (by gravity) can flow through the filter and up to the carb however, never making its way inside the carb. If your carb's throat is dry then the diaphragm is the place to start. If this engine has been sitting around for some time it will most likely need the carb reconditioned anyway. It's also possible that the float has hung and the inlet needle is plugging the inlet hole however, this is not the most likely cause and the pump is.
Being the pump is the easiest to get to I would look there first being that if the pump is OK; a teardown of this carb will have to be the next step.
God Bless,
Dave237
Fuel (by gravity) can flow through the filter and up to the carb however, never making its way inside the carb. If your carb's throat is dry then the diaphragm is the place to start. If this engine has been sitting around for some time it will most likely need the carb reconditioned anyway. It's also possible that the float has hung and the inlet needle is plugging the inlet hole however, this is not the most likely cause and the pump is.
Being the pump is the easiest to get to I would look there first being that if the pump is OK; a teardown of this carb will have to be the next step.
God Bless,
Dave237
#5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,903
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes
on
2 Posts
Ideally, you want to remove the carburetor and service it and the fuel pump (which is integral to such) by way of a bath type cleaner and installing the proper kits for each. You need to supply the engines' code # in order for me to give you the correct Briggs part numbers for the kits. If you've never been into a carburetor before, I stringly recommend buying a Briggs service manual for your model series engine before you procede or take it to an authorized, reputable Briggs dealer for service. The manual part # is 271172. Post back with the code number.
#6
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 230
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
San-Man,
The parts list is avaliable at:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/dis...sp?docid=78484
God Bless,
Dave237
The parts list is avaliable at:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/dis...sp?docid=78484
God Bless,
Dave237
Last edited by dave237; 08-29-05 at 10:50 PM.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Engine info is as follows:
Model Number: 402707 / Type: 0312 / Trim: 07 / CODE: 84042712
I don't think the fuel feed was due to gravity as the carb sits about as high, if not higher, than the tank...And it wasn't until I turned her over that the fuel started flowing up through the lines and through the filter that is up front near the engine...
But I agree, I need to pull the carb and give it a good cleaning, and yes, I use Sta-Bil...Thanks again...
Model Number: 402707 / Type: 0312 / Trim: 07 / CODE: 84042712
I don't think the fuel feed was due to gravity as the carb sits about as high, if not higher, than the tank...And it wasn't until I turned her over that the fuel started flowing up through the lines and through the filter that is up front near the engine...
But I agree, I need to pull the carb and give it a good cleaning, and yes, I use Sta-Bil...Thanks again...