B&S 190707 1148-01 Will Not Turn Easily

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-03-06, 06:39 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
B&S 190707 1148-01 Will Not Turn Easily

Well, i'm back. Got a Briggs 190707 1148-01 that has been rebuilt and modified for racing. Put it on a go cart, hooked up to tranny and started. Ran fine. Sounded Awesome. So, I put it away, go back later, and Runs great, then starts making a whining noise, while running, seems to go away as the throttle is lowered down, just at high rpms. So continues like this for about a minute, then stalls. Tried to restart with starter motor, it moves a bit then stops. Can just barely rotate the engine with my hands. So I took it apart, and took the crankcase cover and cylinder head off, and it hasn't seized. Can rotate slowly though. And the starter motor can rotate the engine when the cylinder head is off. Seems to be a tight con rod cap. Did i torque it too tight?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-04-06, 11:45 PM
v8driver's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 767
what was it torqued to? briggs has a torque spec sheet on their website if you need the exact spec. i'd be inclined to take the end cap back off and check for any damage as well, its gonna be a racing engine, don't want a connecting rod flying.
 
  #3  
Old 02-05-06, 01:04 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
James your post is somewhat aged here but in the event you haven't found an answer to your problem you might want to check this Lawn Mower Racing site out. They do work on the 19 CID Briggs inlcuding modified cams, balancing cranks, carb work, porting the heads etc.
 
  #4  
Old 02-06-06, 09:59 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
Lol, think I found the problem

Didn't tighten the ignition coil screws, so it vibrated loose and magnetized itself to the flywheel

will check it out at school tomorrow, and reset proper gap.
 
  #5  
Old 02-09-06, 02:11 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
wasn't the coil, it was the connecting rod.

http://web.rulex.net/smextreme/seizure.jpg

I will polish the connecting rod, cap and crankshaft, put it together and check clearances.
 
  #6  
Old 02-09-06, 03:26 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 948
don't polish anthing unless there has been metal transfer. if the initial clearances were not correct you can't polish them to spec. take it to a machine shop and get it sized properly. check with micrometer if you can, plastigauge if you have to. torque to bolt mfg spec not briggs manual. if useing oem rod bolts use briggs specs.
 
  #7  
Old 02-09-06, 03:30 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
Originally Posted by flopshot
don't polish anthing unless there has been metal transfer. if the initial clearances were not correct you can't polish them to spec. take it to a machine shop and get it sized properly. check with micrometer if you can, plastigauge if you have to. torque to bolt mfg spec not briggs manual. if useing oem rod bolts use briggs specs.
Yep, theres been metal transfer. Scoring on the connecting rod and cap where the crankshaft hooks up. Fortunately, my school has a machine shop and thats where I'm working on it. We got micrometers and plastigauge, and yes, There OEM bolts.

I'm home sick today, so i can't check the clearance.
 
  #8  
Old 02-09-06, 03:45 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 948
don't know what went wrong but the responsibilty for the build always falls back on the builder, not the machine shop. i don't care how much you trust the shop always measure the assembly for clearance and get to know what is normal. i have dealt with two cases of misprinted specs. the first time it cost me a re-assembly, the second time i questioned the spec and i was correct in doing so. saved me a world of hassle. good luck and enjoy the build.
 
  #9  
Old 02-09-06, 06:06 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
I dunno what went wrong, i'm the only one who's touched this engine!! Torqued the rod bolts to the specs in the Briggs and Stratton Single Cylinder "L" Head Repair Manual.

I'll cross reference with the Briggs Site.

The Machine Shop is the class we take, currently we're building a drag racer from a 1989 Chrysler Lebaron and a Stock Race car out of a ford thunderbird.

So far I've rebuilt 7 briggs engines there, this is my first time tackling a vertical shaft though.

**EDIT** Also, anyone know where i can get the decal for this engine? This is what it looks like:

http://web.rulex.net/smextreme/decal1.jpg

I made one in photoshop, looks similar, but better and more fierce:

http://web.rulex.net/smextreme/decal2.jpg
If i can't find one by briggs, i'll just get it printed somewhere
 

Last edited by James Sanders; 02-09-06 at 06:19 PM.
  #10  
Old 02-09-06, 07:29 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 948
if you did the machine work you may have messed up. if you only assembled the motor, and didn't check the fit, you did mess up. it happens. that's how you learn things. then again there may be something else that went wrong. bad oil slinger, bad assembley lube, who knows. finding out is why you're in school. aint it fun ? the decal is not listed as a part. maybe you could have it scanned and die cut from vinyl at a sign shop. in any event, it's better you learn on a briggs than a 100k nitro sucking huffer. just keep having fun with it.
 
  #11  
Old 02-09-06, 08:16 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 101
Originally Posted by flopshot
only assembled the motor, and didn't check the fit, you did mess up. it happens. bad assembley lube,
Yep, i guess I did mess up! Will check the fit with plastigauge tomorrow.


The only machine work I did was milling the cylinder head, and port and polished the intake and exaust so far.

Could be old assembly lube. Does that stuff expire?
 
  #12  
Old 02-10-06, 04:48 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 948
you'll get sorted out. it's obious you have a passion and talent for this. just keep plugging away. and read,read,read. when you're finished reading, read some more.
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:31 PM.