Craftsman Lawn Tractor blade won't turn


  #1  
Old 02-16-06, 11:27 AM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 21
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Craftsman Lawn Tractor blade won't turn

6 yr old Modle 917.271650. Left blade won't turn. and of course engine dies when I attempt to engage blades. Neither the blade nor mandrel pully will turn by hand. Applied a good shot of WD-40 to mandrel assembly a couple hours ago which so far hasn't helped.

Will I need to change this mandrel assymbly thing. If so, how. Only mechanical stuff I've learned [with luck] to do to the Deck so far is change blades and belt.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
 
  #2  
Old 02-16-06, 05:41 PM
A
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 16
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Possibly...the blade brake has engaged and isn't being released properly?

AZ
 
  #3  
Old 02-16-06, 08:23 PM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 21
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks AZ for your response.

Wasn't aware of "blade brake". How do I check for this?

Thanks

Nowhwerman
 
  #4  
Old 02-16-06, 08:38 PM
James Sanders's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 98
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
its basically the handle you hold down to start the mower and you hold while the motor is on

the brake holds the flywheel when it is disengaged, thus making it hard or impossible to move
 
  #5  
Old 02-16-06, 08:43 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 15,889
Received 131 Upvotes on 121 Posts
The blade brake is a bar on the mower deck that has a brake pad on the end. It makes contact with the mandrel pulley to stop the blade when you disengage the blades. That isn't the problem here, as it doesn't hold the blade from turning entirely...it just slows it down to a quick stop. It sounds to me like either something is bent on the underside of the deck and keeping the blade from turning, or the mandrel bearings need to be replaced. You can do this for about 1/3 of the price of a new mandrel assembly.
 
  #6  
Old 02-16-06, 09:17 PM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 21
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks cheese,

Guess it's probably the bearings as the last time I used it (last Nov.) and it ran fine all the way to the point where I left it parked til now. Had to leave it parked outside under a tarp and with all the rain this winter I guess it had to deal with some moister.

I'll check this out in the AM. Have to wate til daylight. Glad you all are here to turn to.

I'll post back how it goes.

Thanks ya'll. Have a great day.
 
  #7  
Old 02-17-06, 02:07 PM
puey61's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,903
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Beware that if the one side went bad, the other side is probably not far behind. You can go to Sears website and look up the parts you need once you have determined what exactly you need using your chassis' model number.
 
  #8  
Old 02-17-06, 10:30 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 15,889
Received 131 Upvotes on 121 Posts
You can purchase bearings at a local bearing supply shop for less than sears prices. Ask for quality bearings (fafnir, koyo, timken, etc...) and the bearings should be #6203 and 6204, sealed bearings, one of each # for each side. 6203 on top, 6204 at the bottom.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: