newbie here needs help

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  #1  
Old 04-15-06, 08:25 AM
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newbie here needs help

hello newbie here great site , need help hope someone can help i have a kohler 16 hp side shaft motor that was in a ford riding mower model lgt, model number on engine is k341aqs. i'm using this motor to power a wood processor we are making ,problem i'm having is wiring the coil (like whats on most older cars) not sure which wires go where and how to make this engine run , i got it in pieces and i know it did run. hope someone can help me i believe this is a 1986 . thanks paul (***********@***.net)


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Last edited by mattison; 04-30-06 at 05:51 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-15-06, 07:29 PM
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I don't know if you have a coil that requires a resistor or not, but generally on automotive coils, you have 12 volts to the pos. side of the coil during cranking, and 6 volts through a resistor while running. The negative post on the coil connects to the breaker points.
 
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Old 04-16-06, 01:53 PM
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thanks . on the coil it said not to use a resistor but their is one on it? this is the original coil and resistor . i have put 12 volts to the positive side and checked the negitive side it also has 12 volts but still no spark? see i'm trying to wire a new key switch to it all so if you could tell me which wires i should hook up to charge the battery also . but i cant figure out what else to do any help would be great thanks . paul
 
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Old 04-17-06, 12:27 AM
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The coil says not to use a resistor, but it has one? How are you checking for spark? It won't spark unless the negative side gets grounded, and then it will only spark once. That's what the points do...ground the negative side of the coil to create a spark over and over.

I can't tell you how to wire your new switch without more details. Generally, there is a wire coming from the engine that has 13 volts or so on it with the engine running at full throttle. This wire usually goes directly to the positive post on the solenoid or battery. Does yours have a rectifier?
 
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Old 04-17-06, 03:18 AM
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Those round style coils come in two types: internal and external resistor types. If your coil says it has an internal resistor, you should not use an external resistor also. That would drop the voltage twice, really reducing your firepower. The outside of the coil should be securely grounded too.
 
  #6  
Old 04-19-06, 05:01 PM
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ok me again now this is weird , i got spark (BUT) as soon as i tighten the motor mounts down i loose spark WHY????? i am really stumped. thanks if anyone can help. paul
P.S this engine doesnt have points on the flywheel there are magnets and on the engine it has a plate .
 
  #7  
Old 04-19-06, 05:30 PM
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K341 Kohlers have pushrod actuated points under a cover on the side of the block, correct?

The magnets on the flywheel should be for charging the battery.
 
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Old 04-19-06, 08:02 PM
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check to see if you have a wire under the engine that is being pinch when you tighten up the bolts ..if a stray wire got under the engine it can cause it to short out..the points are under a small cover on the side of the engine..these points need to be set right i am sorry i am not sure what setting.....on some models you preset the point and adjust them after engine is running ...this can be tricky..
 
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Old 04-20-06, 12:33 PM
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Thanks guys i will check under the cover on the side of the block. boy tell this isnt a small block Ford, give me a car engine anytime.
 
  #10  
Old 04-24-06, 05:58 PM
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finally got great spark thanks for all the help . took the side cover off and low and behold there was the points, cleaned then and tried it works great now . had to pull the carb all apart it was full of sludge. ? adjusting the carb there are 2 screws i was always told that you can start out with 2 1/2 turn to get the engine to run and fine tune from there is that correct? thanks paul
 
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Old 04-24-06, 09:15 PM
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The sludge would be the remains of what was once gas... its gummed up... A carb rebuild is in order... soak it for few hours in carb cleaner and blow it out and rebuild using a rebuild kit. Also its 1.5 turns out from all the way in snug as a baseline, then fine tune when warmed up.
 
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Old 04-25-06, 04:47 PM
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I let the carb soak in carb cleaner and blew it all out, boy was it bad. Got it to fire right up runs good at idle as soon as i spool it up it runs good then back fires and almost shuts off? If there is anyone out there who knows how to wire a tractor 5 pin key switch help me out i figured the starter part out but now i need help with getting which one to put power to with the key on so i can hook the ignition to it so i can shut it off by the switch also . thanks Paul
 
  #13  
Old 04-26-06, 12:44 AM
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Does it puff a lot of black smoke when you throttle it up?

On the switch, there should be markings on the backside, on each terminal. What are your markings? You may not be able to use your switch with that type of ignition system.
 
  #14  
Old 04-26-06, 03:44 AM
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Cheese is right. There are several versions of those switches and they operate differently. There are switches that are designed for magneto systems that ground the points to stop the motor, while a battery type switch cuts the power from the battery to the ignition. Using the wrong type of switch will result in a short curcuit. You can take your switch to the mower parts store and ask to compare it to the pictures in the parts catalog to determine which type switch you have. Once you are sure you have the correct type switch, you should be able to decipher the wiring since the poles are marked as to which wire goes where.
 
  #15  
Old 04-29-06, 07:01 PM
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thanks again . i pretty much gave up on wiring the switch so it would shut the motor down i used a toggle switch for it. Ready for a new problem ? starts great idles great but anything over 1/2 throttle the govenor opens and kills the engine what can i check to fix this problem or can i just elimanate the govenor all togeither? thanks Paul
 
  #16  
Old 04-30-06, 04:30 AM
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The govenor is a reactionary device and if functioning properly, compensates for increased workloads. You won't want to disable it. If it is actuating at any point, it is probably working properly. Your problem is probably the carb. I suspect the high speed jet is clogged. The engine is dying just as it should be transitioning to the high speed jet.
 
  #17  
Old 04-30-06, 05:35 PM
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ok call me stupid but which one is the high speed jet (like i said before cars are my main hobbie not lawn mowers) also i would like to say i'm sorry to the moderator for putting my email address in didnt know you shouldnt do that.back to the high speed jet there is a adjustment on the side and one that goes from the top of the carb down thru the carb into the float bowl.
 
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Old 05-01-06, 12:35 AM
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I believe it's the one going into the float bowl.
 
  #19  
Old 05-01-06, 06:29 PM
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thanks i will take it out and clean it again .
 
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