Troy tiller with Tecumseh engine


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Old 04-23-06, 09:09 PM
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gld
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Troy tiller with Tecumseh engine

I posted a question weeks ago and am finally getting back after trying what you guys suggested.

Here's the original post:

I have a Tecumseh HS-40 on a Troy tiller. It starts but only runs a few seconds. Sounds good when running for those few seconds. When it dies, it's off immediately, no sputtering or anything. It dies like you shut the spark off. Smells like it's getting gas. Plenty in tank. Spark can be seen at the plug, but not always. Plug looks a little rich. Oil is clean, no gas smell. Don't think anything has ever been rebuilt.


So here's waht's happening now.....


It's getting spark all the time so that's ok. After playing with it a while on a warm day it will stay running just fine, but only with the choke closed. Open it and it dies, even after it's real warmed up. Now after adjusting the screw on the bottom of the carb bowl (tecumseh carb 118 1f 1h) it runs real fast when I open the choke. Almost seems too fast. Anyway is it time to rebuild the carb? If so any suggestions on kits and instructions?

thanks

gld
 
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Old 04-24-06, 12:11 AM
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Yes its time for a carb rebuild..... Pictures along the way really help for reference...., take the carb apart after you get a rebuild kit (small engine shop should get you one easy) and soak it for a couple hours in a bath type carb cleaner.... then with a can of carb cleaner with the straw in, blow out all the holes you can find good, with compressed air afterwards as well as extra insurance. And put it back together.
 
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Old 04-24-06, 04:14 AM
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Just out of curiousity, do you have the main jet needle(the one you adjusted) turned out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated?
Mike
 
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Old 04-24-06, 04:47 PM
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main jet needle

Yes the screw in the bottom of the bowl is turned out 1-1/2 turns from seated. I didn't know that was the main jet needle. After a lot of carb cleaner spray it starts and runs easy now, but is erratic. Sometimes it speeds up a lot and stays there until I turn the main jet needle or close the choke a little. May run this way for a few minutes and then slows down again and stays that way for a few minutes. There's oil leaking out of the governor shaft area. The throttle has absolutely no effect at all. All positions run the same speed that I can only control with the choke or the main jet needle. How fast should this run at "slow" or at "fast"?

How strong should the governor spring be?


gld
 
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Old 04-24-06, 09:18 PM
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If you doubt the spring, I'd replace it to rule it out.
 
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Old 04-25-06, 03:07 AM
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Unless you've messed with it, the governor static adjustment should not have changed. But, check it anyhow...With engine not running, loosen (but not too loose and sloppy) the small screw holding the governor arm to the governor shaft clip. While holding the throttle at Wide Open Throttle (to the left and don't force it), move the governor arm to the left (the same direction the throttle linkage has to move for WOT) and then tighten the screw. This is your proper static load adjustment. Secondly, the spray cleaner alone likely is not enough to tackle the varnish build-up in the carburetor.
 
 

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