Rider Problem
#1
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Rider Problem
I Have A Crafsman Lt1000 With Hydro. Drive B&s 18 Hp Intec Plus. First Question The Cooling Fan On The Transaxle Disentigrated Nothing Left But Small Pieces Luckly It Dumped The Belt So Hopefully It Didnt Overheat!!! Is This Common? Only Have About 85 Hours On It. Second It Is Hard Starting Drags The Starter Bad Are The Valves Out Of Adj. This Soon, Battery And Connections Are Good. If So How Do I Go About Adj. Have Good Mechanical Skills Just Not Much Exp. On These Newer Type Engines.
#2
Since your tractor is that new,1 or 2 yrs.what I,d do if I were you is take it to a local small engine shop (don't forget all of your paper work) and let them do the work under warranty.If you as much put a wench to it it will void everything.
#4
The fan disintegrating isn't normal, and could have been caused by a stick or foreign object getting in the way, or the belt may have done it on its way off the pulley. I doubt it overheated and I think you'll be fine if you replace it. Check the belt over and replace it if needed, also check the idler pulleys and replace if needed.
The hard starting could be a valve problem. Is this a single cylinder? I believe Briggs reccomends adjusting the valves yearly. To adjsut them, rotate the engine to just a tad past TDC on the compression stroke, remove the valve cover, and adjust the clearance between the rocker arms and the valve stems. .005" should be fine on both valves.
The hard starting could be a valve problem. Is this a single cylinder? I believe Briggs reccomends adjusting the valves yearly. To adjsut them, rotate the engine to just a tad past TDC on the compression stroke, remove the valve cover, and adjust the clearance between the rocker arms and the valve stems. .005" should be fine on both valves.
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This should be the 31 cubic inch single cylinder...Is it? If so, Briggs had a run on bad camshafts in these whereas the camshafts' compression release mechanism fails. Post back with your engines' ID numbers and I can confirm this. The new superceded cam part number is 790400, if this is, in fact, the case with yours. With such a failure, the intake valve does not open slightly, as designed, on the compression stroke in order to aid in starting ease. This problem will have an adverse affect on the starter, as you have already had. You stated that you've replaced the starter. Who did this and was it within the warranty period? Another thing to bear in mind is that Briggs may allow a "Policy Adjustment" warranty between the second and third year of ownership whereas they will pay for the parts needed and the owner has to pay the labor. But, if a dealer performed the starter replacement and didn't check the cam's MCR function, you now have a legitimate complaint for a full warranty.
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Rider Problem
OKAY 3 YR. OLD CRAFT. LT 1000 42" CUT ENGINE MODEL 31H777 TYPE 0202E1 CODE 03012777. 85.5 HOURS PUT HOURMETER ON DAY I BROUGHT IT HOME. I CHANGED THE FAN EASY NO BLOOD!!! BELT OKAY, LOT OF DIRT ON TRANSAXEL CLEANED IT OFF. NO UNUSUAL NOISE (WHEW) WAS WORRIED ABOUT THAT. STILL NEED TO TRY VALVE ADJ. BUT HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS. I USE A BAGGER AND NOTICE THAT I GET A LOT OF TRASH ON TOP OF DECK AROUND MANDRELS ANY WAY TO STOP THIS? I THINK THIS MAY BE WHY I HAD SO MUCH STUFF ON TOP OF THE TRANS. THE IDLER PULLY'S ON THE DECK ARE MAKING A LOT OF NOISE ANY BETTER PULLY'S THAN THE SEALED BEARING TYPE. WHAT ABOUT SYNTHETIC OIL I READ A BULLITEN FROM B&S SAID 5W30 IS FINE BUT WHAT ABOUT CHANGE INTERVAL. ALSO ON THE BAGGER ISSUE I HAVE A LOT OF GUMBALL TREES SO NOT USING THE BAGGER NOT AN OPTION. SORRY TOOK SO LONG TO GET BACK WORKING A LOT OF OT I REPLACED THE STARTER

#7
Check all around the bagger, from the chute at the deck to the bags for loose/missing seals or places where parts aren't fitting properly. Other than that, baggers are just dusty by nature.
I'd stick with a factory reccomended oil change interval even with synthetic unless you see enough difference in the oil at the reccomended interval to prolong the change.
The sealed bearings are probably the best kind to use, especially with the dust you're going to have all over them.
I'd stick with a factory reccomended oil change interval even with synthetic unless you see enough difference in the oil at the reccomended interval to prolong the change.
The sealed bearings are probably the best kind to use, especially with the dust you're going to have all over them.