Huskee 26hp riding mower

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  #1  
Old 04-28-06, 09:55 AM
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Exclamation Huskee 26hp riding mower

Hello,
I have a Huskee 26hp, 46" riding mower,(MTD13AZ608H131). Last night after cutting for 15 minutes, The blades stopped then the engine stopped. I found out that the fuse burnt(15 AMP). I replaced the fuse, it worked for 10 minutes then the same thing happend. Now when I replace the fuse, as soon as I turn the ignition on(before it even starts), the fuse burns. I checked all the wires to see if any is bare, they all looked o.k., no bare spots.
Any suggestions??
 
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  #2  
Old 04-29-06, 10:42 AM
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I looked up your exact model and see this has an electric clutch. Is anything causing the blades, deck spindle assemblies, deck belts or the clutch itself to bind? Stick, excessive grass build-up or any other foreign object? I'd say you have a PTO clutch related source of trouble. Perhaps the clutch itself is internally troublesome.
 
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Old 05-01-06, 07:48 AM
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Thanx puey61

I bypassed the clutch, and still burnt the fuse, I bypassed the PTO switch, I bypassed the Ignition switch and still got the same result...it is driving me off the wall....
well, the only thing I have to try now is a continuity meter to see if a wire is actually is defective internally...But if anyone out there can think of anything else to try..I would appreciate it.
 
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Old 05-02-06, 02:48 AM
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Yep, the ohmmeter is a good idea. You have a dead short, and it's going to take some tracing to find it. You might give the charging system a check to be sure it isn't shorted.
 
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Old 05-02-06, 12:09 PM
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Is there a way to test the PTO Clutch??
 
  #6  
Old 05-02-06, 03:37 PM
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Honestly the easiest way, that I am aware of, is to merely turn the ignition key to the run position (without the engine running) and engage the PTO switch and listen for a tinny sound at the clutch. The other would be a visual of the wires at the clutch. The clutch is actually an electromagnet and I know of no way to test the strength. Perhaps Cheese or someone else may. Stay tuned.
 
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Old 05-03-06, 01:07 AM
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I don't know of any way to test strength either. You can hear it click on as Puey noted, and you can see the gap close in the clutch when you turn it on if it's working.
 
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Old 05-05-06, 08:58 AM
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After monkeying with the wiring trying to trace any grounding, for 3 days, I coud not find any. Yesterday I replaced the fuse and it fired right up, It stayed running for 3 minutes and it shut off. I restarted it and it stayed on for few minutes and then it shut off, and burnt the fuse.
by the way, any body out there knows the correct Filter for this brand and what kind of oit and how much...
I know I am bouncing all over but I am sooooooooooo , This is the third expensive electronic unit in my house that goes bad 1 month after the warranty expires..first the dryer..then the 60" projction T.V...then this riding mower..

You guys have been of a great help..Thanx a million..
 
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Old 05-05-06, 04:11 PM
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The Briggs oil filter part number is 492932S and you will use SAE30W oil. As for the electrical issue, I'd seriously check with an authorized MTD service center. Explain the situation that you've been having since before the warranty ran out but you thought you'd just live with it at first. But then it got to be more regular in frequency and you tried to solve the trouble yourself to no avail. Geez guys, can you please try to help me and contact your central distributor and see if they would consider authorizing you guys to diagnose and repair this machine - barely out of warranty - under factory warranty. Please, please, please. Speak nicely, or better yet, send your wife with the machine. We servicing dealers are heartstricken when a woman comes in with a long face and has a problem that needs solving.
 
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Old 05-09-06, 06:29 AM
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Thanx a lot to all who tried to help...I got good news and bad news..
The good news is that I found where it was shorted out..IT was the Voltage regulator..The circuit was completely melted.... I replaced it and the fuse now is o.k.
The bad news is the mower is turning and turning, and every once in a while it back fires...but it does not start..

someone suggested to check the key for the flywheel(timing), I am going to try that later after I get off my real job.
Any ideas would be appreciated..
Thanx a million.
 
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Old 05-10-06, 01:45 AM
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I'd suggest trying a new spark plug first.
 
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Old 05-10-06, 04:25 AM
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Of course all things are possible but unless you have removed the flywheel AND you failed to torque it properly upon reassembly, the flywheel key should not be sheared. If after you try a new spark plug and get the same results, you need to use a Briggs spark tester and determine if the ignition coil is strong enough. If it is and you still have the same results, then would be the time to inspect the key for being sheared.
 
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