Burned ignition wires on John Deere LT155 Kohler 15 HP Engine

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  #1  
Old 05-02-06, 06:03 PM
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Burned ignition wires on John Deere LT155 Kohler 15 HP Engine

I recently needed to jump a dead battery on my 1999 John Deere LT155 due to the long out of service time since last use, and mistakenly reversed the polarity of the cables on the mower. It caused a couple of wires in the bundle running from under the starter flywheel (stator) to the connector to burn. there's a white wire running to the magnet, and a yellow wire running to the stator that are still intact, but a black with and a green wire that start at the connector and then between the connector and the stator were apparently fused together by a diode or some other fuse are now separated. Does anyone know specifically what was located between those three wires and where to find the part to splice it back in?
 
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Old 05-03-06, 12:01 AM
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Wow, you might be in for some parts replacements too. I can't think of any black and reen wires that are connected together between the stator and connector. What does the connector go to, the regulator?
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-06, 06:48 PM
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Cheese, thanks for responding. Actually, the wires that are connected together are the black and yellow wires on the stator side of the connector. After their connection there's only a black wire that goes to the stator and theres also a separate green wire running to the stator from the connector. On the other side of the connector, the black wire connects to a red wire. That red wire it's spliced to a grey wire labeled "fusible link" which runs to the ?voltage regulator? and is directly attached to the positive battery cable at the regulator.

I think what I need to find out first is what the device was that was in between the connection of the two black wires on the stator side of the connection.
 
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Old 05-03-06, 11:48 PM
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What exactly are you referring to as the stator and the regulator? I think you're mistaking the solenoid for the regulator. I can't make sense of this so far for some reason, and I'm wondering if it's the terminology, or if it's just some setup I'm not familiar with.
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-07, 11:38 AM
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harness problem

Hi

I have the very same problem with an lt155 my nephew made the same mistake with the battery booster.

I was wondering if you had found a solution to this problem as our lawnmower is not working and the grass keeps getting higher.

Thank you.
 
  #6  
Old 06-11-07, 04:36 PM
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Update

Hi,
I managed to speak with the service department of the local John Deere agent, in less than a minute a new wiring harness was suggested.....To Start with !
I am no electricion but there are only 3 wires causing the problem from what I can see all of the remaing cables appear in good order.

Any thoughts / guidance appreciated.
 
  #7  
Old 06-11-07, 06:43 PM
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What three wires? We can't see it. Do you have the wiring schematic for your machine? With this, a test light, some 14-16 gauge wire, assorted wire terminals and an electrical wire/terminal multi-tool you should be able to repair/replace the affected wiring. You may need a diode tester to check the condition of the diode if you suspect it may have been affected as well.
 
  #8  
Old 06-14-07, 03:55 PM
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Burned Wires

Hi puey61,

Thank you for the reply,

Sorry I don't have a diagram to work from or refer to, auto electrics are a real puzzle to me however I can try and explain what I discovered so far.

I removed the plastic covering from the top of the engine, there is a large wheel with cogs around it that appear to connect to the starter motor when it is activated, removing it appears to be beyond my capabilities.

The two wires (Black and Green) travel under the wheel in a black protective sheath, the green wire appears to be OK.

The white yellow and black wires come from a connector block, the white continues around to the magnet "Ouch" refers to, the yellow and black are joined with the black wire that continues under the wheel with the green wire.

I think I will try to replace the fusible wire under the battery, for safety I may be able to get a fuse holder from my local auto shop and use a 5 amp fuse.

I agree with you some good cable connectors should get a good connection on the yellow and black wires, at worst I may then need a new wiring harness but not without trying.

Perhaps the reason you don't come across similar is I am in Ireland and the export version may have been different to the one sold in the USA.

Thank you for your suggestions I will keep you informed of the result.
 
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Old 01-12-09, 05:13 PM
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how did you fix the problem???? I need to know if I can do it by myself

How do did you fix your problem after all. I did the same thing today and want to fix it by myself??



Originally Posted by ouch View Post
I recently needed to jump a dead battery on my 1999 John Deere LT155 due to the long out of service time since last use, and mistakenly reversed the polarity of the cables on the mower. It caused a couple of wires in the bundle running from under the starter flywheel (stator) to the connector to burn. there's a white wire running to the magnet, and a yellow wire running to the stator that are still intact, but a black with and a green wire that start at the connector and then between the connector and the stator were apparently fused together by a diode or some other fuse are now separated. Does anyone know specifically what was located between those three wires and where to find the part to splice it back in?
 
  #10  
Old 01-12-09, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by espinoza_21 View Post
How do did you fix your problem after all. I did the same thing today and want to fix it by myself??
Power was sent up into the alternator coils and burned them out. If this is what happened to yours, then the alternator most likely will need to be replaced.
 
  #11  
Old 01-12-09, 06:15 PM
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Burned ?

What about some wires by the oil filter. There was some kind of "fuse" that burned there. It conected a yellow and black wire?/
 
  #12  
Old 01-12-09, 06:38 PM
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That probably was the diode that burned up, if there had been a fuse there, it likely would have blown and prevented the wires from burning.

The diode is kind of like a one way valve, letting electricity out but not back into the alternator. When you jumped the battery with reverse polarity, it allowed current to flow up into the alternator, which is just a long coil of wire, it overheated and melted the insulation that is painted on the wire and shorted out he alternator windings.
 
  #13  
Old 01-12-09, 06:45 PM
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Fuse holder will it work you think?

You think if I put a fuse holder that will fix the problem?? What about a little smoke that came from around the flywhee?


QUOTE=30yearTech;1501331]That probably was the diode that burned up, if there had been a fuse there, it likely would have blown and prevented the wires from burning.

The diode is kind of like a one way valve, letting electricity out but not back into the alternator. When you jumped the battery with reverse polarity, it allowed current to flow up into the alternator, which is just a long coil of wire, it overheated and melted the insulation that is painted on the wire and shorted out he alternator windings.[/QUOTE]
 
  #14  
Old 01-12-09, 07:12 PM
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A fuse holder will not fix your issue. You will need to replace the alternator/coil assembly. They are not overly expensive, I did one just this last summer for a customer, if I remember it was about $40.00. It really depends upon which one your engine uses, if you can post your model and spec numbers I could tell you what to expect. The flywheel on the engine will need to be pulled off to gain access to the alternator. Installing a new alternator is not that difficult of a job, the hardest part will be removing the flywheel.
 
  #15  
Old 01-12-09, 08:09 PM
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what about the Diode

I'm not the greatest with small engines,but what about the diode that burned do I need to replace the whole wireing harness too? I will look into the serial # when I get home tonight. Thanks for all the INFO.
 
  #16  
Old 01-13-09, 05:53 AM
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The diode is generally included in the wiring attached to the alternator coil. If only the wiring from the alternator is damaged then the wiring harness should not need replacement. It really depends on the extent of the damage to the wiring.
 
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