Carb self adjusts

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  #1  
Old 05-06-06, 09:40 AM
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Carb self adjusts

HI I have a tanaka weedeater that sometimes runs fine. when I adjust the carb screws so that it runs great meaning that theirs no hesitation between idle and high speed it works fine for a little while (from 1 min to 5 min). Then if seems if I rev it up a couple of times or let it run pretty fast for a while and then go back to idle the problem arises, The idle at this point is clearly is alot higher then initially started at and then when I try to rev it up again it bogs down and quits unless i quickly bring the throttle back to Idle. I thought if I cleaned the two fuel screens in the carb it would fix the problem but it didnt . Please help me with the madning problem.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-08-06, 12:01 AM
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Could the screws actually be getting out of adjustment while running? They may be too loose. Other possibilities are an air leak at the crankcase and poor compression
 
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Old 05-08-06, 10:32 PM
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my chainsaw did this

i had an older sears chainsaw that did this i took it in and he it it was known for not holding the setting he i said i could fix it and you could start it up and it would work fine than next time you to start it it won't work he said somthing about the seals don't hold whatever that ment try some GUM OUT CARB AND CHOKE CLEANER JET SPRAY WITH THE ENGINE OFF SPRAY AROUND THE CARB AND ALL THE LINKAGE SPRAY THE CHOKE AND WORK THE CHOKE BY HAND DO NOT SPRAY DOWN THE CARB THROT WITH THE ENGINE OFF WITH THE ENGINE ON SPRAY AROUND THE AIR CLEANER AND DOWN THE CARB THROT THE ENGINE WILL TRY TO STALL BACK OFF AND LET IT COME BACK UP TO SPEED SPRAY THE CHOKE PLATE WHILE WORKING THE CHOKE BY HAND DO NOT STICK THE SPRAY TUBE PAST THE CHOKE PLATE do this a few times and see if it helps if not and you replaced the air filter and adjusted it than you might want to get a new one the cost of getting it fixed is more than the price of a new one string trimmers and leaf blowers are not worth fixing it is cheaper to get a new one GOOD LUCK
 
  #4  
Old 05-10-06, 11:02 AM
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thanks cheese
I know that the screws arnt turning and I do have compression but how do I check for a leak in the crank case?.. theirs no oil leaking out of the weedeater
Raymond
 
  #5  
Old 05-10-06, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the reply lexmarks567
well all i can do is try cleaning the carb with some spray, Ill have to see if it works. If not Ill have to try something else...since I dont feel like getting a new engine since the one I have is custom fitted into my R/C speed boat and the one I have you dont see around all to often.
Raymond
 
  #6  
Old 05-11-06, 01:11 AM
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Yep, Tanakas aren't all that common, but they're good.

Any gaskets or seals around the crankcase would be suspect for leaks. Usually these leaks only open up when the engine warms due to expansion. Generally it is the crankcase cover gasket at fault. You can find the leak by spraying carburetor cleaner around these areas while the engine is running and while listening for changes in the way the engine runs. When you hear the engine change, you're spraying a leaky area.
 
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Old 05-11-06, 04:47 PM
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problem solved

well I took your advise one step farther and made up some new gaskets that sealed the carburator onto the cylinder. I also cleaned the carb again with brake cleaner. after doing all of this I seem to think that the phonolic extension to the carb was rotated (probably did it by accident the last time i took it off), which closed off the hole from the carb to the cankcase pressure. although I took the carb off in the first place b/c of the idle prob. So who knows what the problem really was...the main thing is that it works now, yahoo. i still think it was faulty gaskets though. Well thanks for your help. well the boat ran great but is there any easy way of getting more power... the more the better right well thanks again for your help
Raymond
 
  #8  
Old 05-12-06, 12:18 AM
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Glad you got it fixed! More power on a 2-stroke is possible, but not necessarily easy. Exhaust modding is probably the easiest way to improve performance.
 
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