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Chainsaw chain can I shorten it?


LarryE44's Avatar
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05-20-06, 05:56 PM   #1  
Chainsaw chain can I shorten it?

I have a Husqvarna 23 Compact 16" chainsaw. The chain has strected and adjustment will no longer keep it taunt. Is there a repair link kit for these so I can shorten it by at least a couple of links? Thanks, everyone. Larry

 
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BuiLDPro68's Avatar
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05-20-06, 06:40 PM   #2  
Yes you can shorten a saw chain. Depending on the chain some will have a master link already on it. If not it can be cut and a master link installed. If you need to get a master link I would go to a shop where ther sell professional chain saws like Stihl. They would be more likely to carry them

 
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05-20-06, 07:06 PM   #3  
While shortening a used chain is possible, it does have certain drawbacks. Removing the required amount of links may make the chain too short. The replacement link will need to be installed by the saw shop since it requires a special rivet installation tool. Adding the price of the link, labor and a probable sharpening, you may be throwing good money after bad. The third and most serious problem is the fact that the original chain is worn at every rivet. The extra length means your links are getting worn out, reducing the strength of the chain. If you like your legs, arms or eyes, just bite the bullet, and purchase a new chain. In my experiance a new 16" chain is always much less than the insurance deductable at the emergency room.

 
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05-20-06, 07:55 PM   #4  
The most important point is that your chain has changed pitch and to continue running it will wear the drive sprocket out prematurely. JUst go buy a new chain and quit stepping over dollars to save dimes.
Mike

 
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05-20-06, 09:14 PM   #5  
I have never heard of a chain streching so much that it can't be reeled in. Good chance it was too long in the first place. If it still has good teeth on it might be worth shortening. Teeth tell chain life in my opinon. There is no rivet tool needed. It is as simple as cutting and inserting a master link. I have worked for a commercial tree company in the past and we got big rools of continuous saw chain. I would count how many links for the particular saw, cut it and put in the masterlink. Buying a new one might not be a bad idea but I wouldn't throw out a good chain for the dollar or so for the part. Whether it's a good chain or not I would have to see it. If you look on the teeth there is a little slash mark that runs the same angle as the chisel. If the teeth are worn down close to the mark, time to get a new chain

 
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05-20-06, 09:20 PM   #6  
whoa! Once would have been fine what the heck?

 
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05-20-06, 10:45 PM   #7  
Buildpro, I deleted the duplicate posts...no idea what happened, but no problem.

Incidentally, I have seen chains that actually wore, along with bar and sprocket wear, to the point that they would no longer remain adjusted correctly. In fact, I think my husquvarna 61 is about at that point now, lol. I suggest changing it and have a look at the bar and sprocket too.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-21-06, 06:51 PM   #8  
Thanks everyone for the great advice. I went and got a new chain today. But now there is a new problem. I think I need a new bar. The tip gets smoking hot now with the new chain. I have it adjusted correctly. When you say check the bar and sprocket, do you mean the sprocket at the end of the bar? I use the bar oil that is like as thick as honey and put the blade next to a cardboard box and it is slinging oil good, but it doesn't seem like it is spinning on the bar real good. Thanks. Larry

 
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05-21-06, 08:02 PM   #9  
you said you had it adjusted correctly. Could the chain be too tight?
Mike

 
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05-21-06, 08:08 PM   #10  
No, Mike, I have it where when you pull it away from the bar, there is 3/8" to 1/2" clearance. I even got it looser than normal and the tip still got smoking hot. How do I check the drive sprocket? I think maybe the bar is just worn out. I oiled the sprocket on the tip with LPS2 heavy industrial oil before I cranked it up. Larry


Last edited by LarryE44; 05-21-06 at 08:19 PM.
 
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05-22-06, 05:09 AM   #11  
Perhaps the new chain is dragging on the bar tip. With plenty of oil I don't see how this could cause it to heat on the tip.They ran a lot of years without sprocket nose bars. Maybe someone else here knows the cause of it.
Mike

 
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05-22-06, 11:27 PM   #12  
Sounds like you need a bar. Could be that the bearings in the tip are shot and creating a lot of friction, or the tip is widened and the chain is cutting down into the inside edges of the bar, or a combination.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-23-06, 02:51 AM   #13  
There are three different gauge chains available on most chainsaws which must match the bar groove, with the sizes being .050", .058", .063". Gauge is the width of the drive links. Lets say you have a bar that requires a .050" chain and you try to run a .058" chain, the chain will drag in the bar and cause it to overheat greatly. Ideally, what you should have done was to buy a combo pack (bar and chain), thus knowing you have a matched set.

 
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