Murray 22" mower with Briggs & Stratton 3.75 Sprint

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  #1  
Old 06-09-06, 03:51 PM
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Murray 22" mower with Briggs & Stratton 3.75 Sprint

I've got a Murray 22" walk behind mower with a Briggs and Stratton 3.75hp Sprint engine on it. (Eng Model: 98902 Type code: 0110 01 Code#: 96072951) It's been literally 3 years of being parked out back of my apartment and today I'm getting it running again. Things I've done so far...drain and clean tank, replace diaphragm and gasket, replace Champion plug with E3 Plug (E3.10), refill the tank with new gas, clean the garbage out of the recoil starter clutch (it still needs new balls but it works.)

It actually starts on the first or second pull, but it still needs an oil change and the Primer Bulb needs replacing. It still cuts like a bandit, even in damp grass and the engine doesn't load down at all.

My questions are. Has any had any experience using those E3 "Diamond Fire" plugs in small engines and how bad is it going to be to get old oil out of the crankcase (so far it's not smoking, burning oil or running hot, so something is in there that's workable if not decent.) Tomorrow is oil change day, and I'm looking forward to the educational aspects of the job.

Thanks!

Christopher
 
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Old 06-09-06, 05:34 PM
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Haven't used those plugs. There is a drain plug on the bottom side of the motor. If it hasn't been changed in a long time you might need to use a visegrip to get a sure hold on the plug. Don't be overly confident of the oil that is in there now. Besides the oil breaking down with use it also tends to collect moisture
 
  #3  
Old 06-09-06, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr
Haven't used those plugs. There is a drain plug on the bottom side of the motor. If it hasn't been changed in a long time you might need to use a visegrip to get a sure hold on the plug. Don't be overly confident of the oil that is in there now. Besides the oil breaking down with use it also tends to collect moisture
I know for a fact that it hasn't been changed in at least 3 years and the last time I did change it I used SAE 30 weight oil. I'm not overly confident, that's why I'm going to run it long enough to warm it up then take the spark plug out and put some clean oil in it. I'm going to be moving soon and the new place has an attached garage that's very dry and fairly well insulated. It also has a lawn that grows like a weed, so having a working mower is really necessary.

Thanks!

Christopher
 
  #4  
Old 06-09-06, 08:18 PM
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Yes, there should be a small bolt, you insert a open ended ratchet into.... lift it up on a couple blocks if you can (way I do mine) and put the pan under the engine and let it drain till it drains no more.... since its been setting that long....I'd give it another fresh refill after a couple hours of run time. Replace the air filter, should be a oiled foam filter....
For the oil selection, use a good name brand hd-30 weight above 40 degrees F.
Below..... use a multi weight like 5w-30.

use 5w-30 or 10w-30 synthetic all year round.

The engine should take 20 ounces.

As for the "E3" plug.. I did buy one for fun last year to use in one of mine.... 6hp quantum, seems to use less gas.... but of course it doesn't start easier. It was always a one pull starter.

The primer bulb is cheap and easy, hold the two side clips down and yank the old one out. Be sure to use a fuel stabilizer and check the oil often. Oil first.... gas second.

Also, when mowing wet grass..... be sure to scrape the grass off from underneath and let the mower run to dry the deck out, or the deck will rot quicker..... its always best to cut dry grass.
 
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Old 06-09-06, 08:54 PM
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lawn mower engines are light duty engines,,they turn a grass cuting blade...some self proplelled mowers,do a little more work..so be kind to your mower and put a new blade on it.there cheap..sharping one,grinding it down to sharpen it,throws the balance off.i cant understand why people pay to sharpen one.and risk,hurting there engines,when a new one is so cheap..walmart man and allso.that blade is not hiting that grass,at the same hight,before it was ground down.
 
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Old 06-10-06, 12:49 AM
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Don't worry, a sharpened blade still cuts at the same height as a new one, and it's pretty much standard procedure to balance a blade when you sharpen it, or it should be.
 
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Old 06-10-06, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by v8driver
Yes, there should be a small bolt, you insert a open ended ratchet into....
Not all mowers have this type of plug, some use a square bolt plug. Ratchet size is 3/8" and I think the square is 9/16" but often a visegrip works better. Occasionally you will find one with a 13/16" [?] plug - tehcumsan - I think.

I always spray the botom of my mower deck of after each use, never worry with drying it...no rust after 15yrs. Also when the deck is kept clean it will cut better with less strain on the motor.

When sharpening a blade be sure to remove equal amounts of metal to keep it balanced. While the shops have a little gizmo [tech term ] to check the balance, I just do it by eye and have had no problems in 40yrs.
 
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Old 06-10-06, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by v8driver
The primer bulb is cheap and easy, hold the two side clips down and yank the old one out. Be sure to use a fuel stabilizer and check the oil often. Oil first.... gas second.

Also, when mowing wet grass..... be sure to scrape the grass off from underneath and let the mower run to dry the deck out, or the deck will rot quicker..... its always best to cut dry grass.
The oil plug on this one has a 3/8" square hole that will accept a standard extension on a ratchet. I have a set of crates that I can put both ends of the mower onto to get it off the ground, I'm pretty decent when it comes to scraping off the bottom of the deck after each run. As a rule I don't mow even damp grass but my lawn now is 10' by 20' and it was the only test track I had. Normally I keep the deck height set as high as it will go, the mower cuts better and the grass looks better when it's done.

LLib, the blade was brand new the last season I ran the mower, (after I hit a rock with it). I will look it over and touch it up with a file I have around, I'm sure it will need it. If it gets too wacked out then a blade is fairly easy to replace. Over all it's been about a $10.00 investment including .39 cents for a new eyebolt to hold the recoil rope on the mower handle. Not bad considering the average price of mowers here is $120.00.

Christopher

Okay, I got to the oil change this afternoon, the plug came out really easy and was actually shiny inside. The gookus (technical term) that came out of crankcase was very black but fairly oily to the touch and not gritty. I probably got close to 20 ounces out but I haven't measured it yet.

I did get 20 ounces of clean Quaker State 10w-30 natural oil back into the crankcase after consulting the single-asterisk warning in the B&S owners manual concerning checking it more frequently. I only plan on running it the next 5-10 hours before putting in new SAE 30 oil.

Now it's raining so the blade waits for another day!
 

Last edited by ChristopherT; 06-10-06 at 12:55 PM.
  #9  
Old 06-25-06, 02:15 AM
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ChristopherT
YOU MEAN THE RATCHET SIZE IS 3/8 DRIVE AND THE SOCKET IS 3/4' .
 

Last edited by mikesmalleng; 06-25-06 at 02:50 PM.
  #10  
Old 06-26-06, 01:56 AM
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You don't have to use a socket. Just a ratchet and extension. There is a 3/8" hole in the plug made to accept the square drive end of a 3/8" extension,...or you can use a 3/4" socket as well to remove it.
 
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