1974 Allis-Chalmers 710

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  #1  
Old 06-10-06, 02:43 PM
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1974 Allis-Chalmers 710

The old iron has taken another dump.

While cutting the yard it just stopped. Chugged down to nothing. Not a lock up type stop. Checked everything I could think of getting fuel, fresh fuel, clean filter, clean air filter, etc.

Key item is no spark. Changed plug still no spark. Checked points and they are two years old but not the least pitted and still cleaned them and regapped to .025. Still no spark.

I'm lost ... help please.
 
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Old 06-10-06, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tea3803
The old iron has taken another dump.

While cutting the yard it just stopped. Chugged down to nothing. Not a lock up type stop. Checked everything I could think of getting fuel, fresh fuel, clean filter, clean air filter, etc.

Key item is no spark. Changed plug still no spark. Checked points and they are two years old but not the least pitted and still cleaned them and regapped to .025. Still no spark.

I'm lost ... help please.
I'm not totally familiar with this tractor, does it have a traditional cap and rotor ignition or a magneto ignition?

Christopher
 
  #3  
Old 06-10-06, 06:02 PM
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No cap and rotor. The wire to the plug comes from a coil type device.
 
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Old 06-10-06, 09:09 PM
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  #5  
Old 06-10-06, 10:57 PM
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Disconnect the kill wire from the ignition system to eliminate problems with the ignition switch and kill circuit. Check for spark and we can go from there.
 
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Old 06-11-06, 05:22 PM
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No idea what wire would be the kill wire. Sorry
 
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Old 06-12-06, 11:07 PM
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Does this engine have an automotive type coil? If so, you may not have a kill wire. If it has an armature type coil, the kill wire will be connected to the points along with the coil wire. Have you changed the condenser lately? Is .025" the reccomended point gap?
 
  #8  
Old 06-13-06, 02:23 PM
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The coil looks like the type that was on cars when I could still work on them. Positive side to ignition switch, negative side to condensor and points and of course the tower to the plug. No continuity anywhere on the coil ... shouldn't it be a dead short from pos to neg?

Anyway, it appears that there is no kill wire.

I set points to .025" because that was what it was ... only thing I can find in the manual is .030" for plugs, nothing on points. Condensor was changed when engine was rebuilt some two years ago now.

Sorry for not coming back sooner.
 
  #9  
Old 06-13-06, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tea3803
The coil looks like the type that was on cars when I could still work on them. Positive side to ignition switch, negative side to condensor and points and of course the tower to the plug. No continuity anywhere on the coil ... shouldn't it be a dead short from pos to neg?
I'd suggest replacing the coil. If you aren't getting some resistance from the Pos. to the Neg. side then it's possible the winding went. You can test the secondary circuit of the coil by placing the one of the ohm meter leads in the tower connector and the other on one of the primary leads. I wouldn't expect a dead short because the coils do have an inherent resistance.

Christopher
 
  #10  
Old 06-14-06, 06:58 AM
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You don't say what kind of motor is in this, but from the vintage I am guessing it is a "K" series single cylinder Kohler. If it is, then points should be set at about .018"
 
  #11  
Old 06-16-06, 06:14 AM
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Ok the points are set to .018" and the new coil is in. She cranked for about 4 seconds and now purrs like the baby she is. Thank all of you so much for the help and patience with this problem.

Oh and one of the old timers I talked to reminded me of a tip my Dad used to use. With ignition on and the points exposed, short the points with a screwdriver. If there is spark its not the coil ... no spark bad coil. May not work in all cases but like I said its one from my memory.
 
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