Murry lawnmower

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  #1  
Old 06-15-06, 04:05 AM
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Murry lawnmower

I have a murry lawnmower model KM7007 7 21951X12 date of manufacture 0997 with a briggs and stratton magnetron engine.
When I got ahold of the mower the gas tank was filled with rotton gas.As I drained the tank the gas was clear like water then started getting drak yellow then orange. drain the fuel line drianed the card.Still would not start.Took the carb off srayed carb cleaner into it still no change. Took it off again and used my handheld drill with a wire bursh atachment to clean the calceam buld up reinstalled the float and the needle and it fired up.But not that good it sputters and dies. with a little help of starting fluid it stayed but wants to die and is not running that strong.My parts guy said to change the oil about 2-3 times he said I had a mower that did what yours did changed the oil 3 times and it worked. So would changing the oil work. I changed it once With used oil that I know does not have water in it.Also If I put 2 cycle oil in the crankcase would that do any harm Cause thats all I have at this time.

UPDATE: thats it im sending the carb out. I did every trick my parts guy told me to do and it still won't run up to speed. It sounds like its starving for fuel.
I changed the oil 2 times with 10W-40 cause thats what it said to use in the summer and it was no help.I give up so unless you guys or my parts guy knows anything else that I should try I sending the carb out as soon as I get the money.
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 06-15-06 at 08:36 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-06, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by lexmarks567
I have a murry lawnmower model KM7007 7 21951X12 date of manufacture 0997 with a briggs and stratton magnetron engine.
When I got ahold of the mower the gas tank was filled with rotton gas.As I drained the tank the gas was clear like water then started getting drak yellow then orange. drain the fuel line drianed the card.Still would not start.Took the carb off srayed carb cleaner into it still no change. Took it off again and used my handheld drill with a wire bursh atachment to clean the calceam buld up reinstalled the float and the needle and it fired up.But not that good it sputters and dies. with a little help of starting fluid it stayed but wants to die and is not running that strong.My parts guy said to change the oil about 2-3 times he said I had a mower that did what yours did changed the oil 3 times and it worked. So would changing the oil work. I changed it once With used oil that I know does not have water in it.Also If I put 2 cycle oil in the crankcase would that do any harm Cause thats all I have at this time.

UPDATE: thats it im sending the carb out. I did every trick my parts guy told me to do and it still won't run up to speed. It sounds like its starving for fuel.
I changed the oil 2 times with 10W-40 cause thats what it said to use in the summer and it was no help.I give up so unless you guys or my parts guy knows anything else that I should try I sending the carb out as soon as I get the money.
The calcium buildup wasn't calcium..... it was corrosion.... it'll only get worse. You'll have to replace the carb after a while. Also spraying carb cleaner in the carb won't help a dirty carb, tearing it apart and soaking it in carb cleaner for a few hours, then blow it out with compressed air through any and all holes will do it. DO NOT USE 2 STROKE OIL.... it will kill the engine if used in place of engine oil. Changing the oil won't help squat, its something with the carb or linkage. Carbs are not hard.... you spend 3 times more getting someone else to do it, rather then doing it yourself.

I've gotten many a engine going, with a simple can of carb cleaner and compressed air (most of the time with no air) and the carbs were like bricks they were so gummed up. 5 - 10 bucks max, and I was going.... last one was a 1983 or 4... forget which, max series briggs (just after they switched to the magnetron system) left out to set for 10 years or so.... I took my time, checked compression, checked the carb for corrosion and checked spark (changed the oil the first couple times, first was with a partial fill with marvel mystery oil), got a rebuild kit and cleaned the carb and had the carb apart and back together (walbro....got lucky, its a good carb) in under a minute and back on and everything back together in under 10 and cut some grass with it. And barely spent 10 bucks.... Right now I have a couple on the back burner.... one quantum 3.5 hp briggs (has the side recoil starter) and had a corroded carb.... the other is a 3.5 classic actually ready to drop in, just needs a tank and carb (which I have but need to clean) What you need is a good book on small engines.....
 
  #3  
Old 06-15-06, 12:56 PM
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Well I used a wire brush atachment so clean the corrosion and made it look almost new reinstalled the float and needle and put the carb back on and it fired but ran rough. So he said to clean the ingition coil and flywheel of rust. I did and now the thing WON'T START . I will with starting fluid ofr gas poured into the spark hole but once that burns up it dies.I put the coil back in the right place useing the buiness card trick.So now what.

Originally Posted by v8driver
The calcium buildup wasn't calcium..... it was corrosion.... it'll only get worse. You'll have to replace the carb after a while. Also spraying carb cleaner in the carb won't help a dirty carb, tearing it apart and soaking it in carb cleaner for a few hours, then blow it out with compressed air through any and all holes will do it. DO NOT USE 2 STROKE OIL.... it will kill the engine if used in place of engine oil. Changing the oil won't help squat, its something with the carb or linkage. Carbs are not hard.... you spend 3 times more getting someone else to do it, rather then doing it yourself.

I've gotten many a engine going, with a simple can of carb cleaner and compressed air (most of the time with no air) and the carbs were like bricks they were so gummed up. 5 - 10 bucks max, and I was going.... last one was a 1983 or 4... forget which, max series briggs (just after they switched to the magnetron system) left out to set for 10 years or so.... I took my time, checked compression, checked the carb for corrosion and checked spark (changed the oil the first couple times, first was with a partial fill with marvel mystery oil), got a rebuild kit and cleaned the carb and had the carb apart and back together (walbro....got lucky, its a good carb) in under a minute and back on and everything back together in under 10 and cut some grass with it. And barely spent 10 bucks.... Right now I have a couple on the back burner.... one quantum 3.5 hp briggs (has the side recoil starter) and had a corroded carb.... the other is a 3.5 classic actually ready to drop in, just needs a tank and carb (which I have but need to clean) What you need is a good book on small engines.....
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 07-04-06 at 12:02 AM.
  #4  
Old 06-15-06, 06:02 PM
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You're getting spark, so its not the coil or anything because it is starting.... its still a fuel issue.... I don't think I read it anywhere in your posts.... but did you clean the tank out? Trash could have easily clogged the carb again.
 
  #5  
Old 06-16-06, 05:43 AM
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I drained it when I found it and replaced with fresh fuel so I took the carb off cleaned it agian reinstalled it and it started for a second of the carb cleaner. Sprayed some starting fluid into the airfliter and it fired but started blowing white smoke so I let it ran to clean it out And it got to the point that I could not see any thing because of the smoke.So I shut it down and drained some of the oil restarted it and it fired without smoke. But ran rough and would die and won't restart without starting fluid and once that burns off it will run on the fuel for a while and die.This mower does not have a fuel filter the fuel line goes from the shutoff to the carb.

Originally Posted by v8driver
You're getting spark, so its not the coil or anything because it is starting.... its still a fuel issue.... I don't think I read it anywhere in your posts.... but did you clean the tank out? Trash could have easily clogged the carb again.
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 06-18-06 at 05:11 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-16-06, 02:30 PM
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OK I sent the carb out and will post when i get it back (2 weeks)
 
  #7  
Old 06-21-06, 07:31 PM
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BAD NEWS
heres the email I got from my guy you be the judge

" Hello, corrosion did not clean up well at all. Carb has had water in it for a long time. One of the passages is pitted. probably would never work right. I don't think it is rebuildable. If you give me a day or 2 I will look through my stashes and see if I have another one that's good. If I do I will rebuild it for you.
Zeff "
what do you guys think.
 
  #8  
Old 06-21-06, 09:27 PM
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Thats what I thought in the beginning, the corrosion will get worse, and its best to get a new carb. It does take a long time for it to happen, more then likely the mower has sat out for quite some time.
 
  #9  
Old 06-24-06, 02:26 PM
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GOOD NEWS he found one in good shape and has it soaking right now
 
  #10  
Old 06-24-06, 09:50 PM
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Check the intake tube where the carburetor connects, you will need to remove the carb, the bracket that the two carb screws connect to, it`s also held on by two head bolts, the tank, blower housing and the coil in order to check for loose screws or leaking gasket. The slightest leak from this tube effects the performance of the engine and should not be ignored.
 
  #11  
Old 07-03-06, 12:22 PM
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Alright thats it. I got the carb back installed it and GUESS WHAT ITS LEAKING FROM THE THROTTLE PLATE RUINING THE GASKET AND AIRFILTER Now what its not adjustble even though I tried.The float is hitting the carb (its going to far up not letting the needle close.)What do I do this guys a pro but somthing is not right and I've had it.
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-06, 12:33 PM
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If the float has a metal tab you can bend it to give move clearence. Whoever built the carb probably put new a kit in the carb and didn't check to see if it seated properly. Have a nice day. Geo
 
  #13  
Old 07-03-06, 12:35 PM
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The float is plastic so it can't be bent without breaking.the only metal on the float is the pin that holds it in
 
  #14  
Old 07-04-06, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by geogrubb
If the float has a metal tab you can bend it to give move clearence. Whoever built the carb probably put new a kit in the carb and didn't check to see if it seated properly. Have a nice day. Geo
Yeah that makes sense heres what my guy said

"It could be the rubber seat I installed came out a little did not seat good enough. I have had one had a little tiny tear in it I could not see at first, but I was able to figure it out because I installed it on a mower. So hard to say when the mower is not here for me to look at. IM thinking either the seat needs to be pushed in more or it has a tear in it. If you want tot send it back to me only thing it would cost you is the charge to mail it to me"

what do you guys think
 
  #15  
Old 07-04-06, 01:18 AM
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I guess I'd send it back. Sounds like the seat is damaged, not pushed in far enough like he says, or missing entirely.
 
  #16  
Old 07-04-06, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cheese
I guess I'd send it back. Sounds like the seat is damaged, not pushed in far enough like he says, or missing entirely.
yeah I going to send it back over the weekend. The carb is so flooded with gas the mower won't start. The olny way it would run is by turning the fuel vavle off and cranking the engine untiil the carb reached the right amont of fuel and the engine fired sputterd for 30 secs untill the carb drained enough and the engine came right up to speed to 3 secs untill the carb ran dry.
 
  #17  
Old 07-28-06, 03:03 PM
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OK Sent the carb back. He said it was missing the seat.Now this is the first carb thats got sent back to him.It was also missing the pin(my falt) that holds the needle and float in place.And was missing the float bowl screw gasket(my falt) but the seat was not my falt but I had to send him $7 has he could not get the gasket without a new rebuild kit. I got the carb back today and when I get gas I will see if it still leaks.
 
  #18  
Old 07-30-06, 02:29 AM
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OK got the gas and the mower runs FINAILY.NO leaks.It was the seat that was missing.could have fallen out during shipping.
Are all Murrays this bad.
 
  #19  
Old 07-30-06, 06:03 PM
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Can't blame the mower for the seat missing, and improper care from the last owner......, murrays are actually OK, no good or great.... just ok.
 
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