parts for old troy bilt tomahawk chipper

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  #41  
Old 12-06-10, 02:30 PM
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I have Manuals for Troy-Bilt Chipper/Vac Model 47279 5 hp

I have a complete set of manuals for the Model 47279 Chipper/Vac. I would be willing to scan and email any pages that might be needed by someone.

I bought my machine in 1993 from Troy-Bilt. I used it until 2002 when it threw a rod and destroyed the engine. I had a new short block installed and it has run great since then.

My most recent problem is the zipper for the collection bag has failed. The rest of the bag is fine. Of course there is no information available anywhere on the collection bag. I tried the local shoemaker but they want to use the original type spiral zipper as the replacement. I am trying to get a sailmaker friend of mine to replace the original spiral zipper with a heavy duty sail bag zipper. I'll keep you updated on how that goes.

Up until now I have not needed any replacement parts. I am looking for a new local vendor to sharpen the chipper blade. My previous vendor has closed. He had a surface grinder that put an edge on the blade that you could shave with.
 
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  #42  
Old 01-01-11, 02:06 PM
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How do you remove the main shaft bearing?

I have a slight wobble in the flywheel and suspect that the bearing is going. Can you advise on how to get the bearing off the shaft? I have removed the bearing collar and the outer bearing flanguette. Thank you.
 
  #43  
Old 07-20-11, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by aj-allen View Post
Doc 97133 is a 5/8 X 29 1/4 belt many of the after market belts will work
Stens exact match 265-107
Silver Streak 75-592
Rotary 7574

AJ
Hi, noticed this post when I was looking for the same thing - a replacement belt for my old Tomahawk. Since it is now 2011, one part number has changed, and I thought I would update in case anyone else was looking.

The Silver Streak part number is now 75-380

I discovered this site while looking for this part. It's wonderful, and I thank everyone for keeping it going.

Eric
 
  #44  
Old 11-10-11, 01:13 PM
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'88 Troybuilt Junior Tomahawk Chipper issue

I have an old TB Chipper with a Tecumseh engine (not sure on the HP on it) and the carb needs replaced. I spoke with a Sears rep and the unit is no longer supported. We have tried having the carb rebuilt, but it still pours gas through the engine when it gets turned off. The part number for the carb is 632529 and I was wondering if anyone knew what a suitable replacement for this would be?

Thanks
 
  #45  
Old 11-10-11, 02:06 PM
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Since the carb you need is NLA, why not look closer at yours for the source of trouble. Has the float been replaced? Has the inlet needle and seat been replaced? Has the seat been installed properly (it can press in in either direction but the ringed side must be installed in the bore first)? Is the bore in which the seat presses into scratched?
 
  #46  
Old 11-11-11, 07:40 PM
doc
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Wow - this thread is still going. It's great all you folks have TBs. Great machine. Turns out my bearings on the chute side went out totally on my 91 Super Tomahawk. A friend is coming over tomorrow to help me take that side apart. I'll let you know that I discover.
 
  #47  
Old 04-17-12, 01:16 PM
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Hey, Y'all:
I have a beast of a machine - Super Tomahawk chipper/shredder, model 10939ST. It doesn't have a centrifigal clutch as shown in my manual, but I think it is not the correct manual. I'm wondering if previous owner may have removed the clutch pulley and replaced with a simple drive pulley directly mounted on engine shaft. Does anybody know if this is how it came from factory? Thanks.
 
  #48  
Old 04-17-12, 01:34 PM
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You still out there?
Did you ever find a manual? I was given a manual when I bought my 10939ST, but it is probably not correct book for this model.
Do you have a centrifugal clutch? Mine does not. Hmmm.
Thanks.
 
  #49  
Old 04-17-12, 01:56 PM
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Experience with NEW Chipper blades.

Since I learned so much about these chippers from this forum, I though I should post my experiences as well.

I posted my results of the bearing replacement on this thread: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...t-chipper.html

I also wanted to document my experiences with chipper blades. Of course being excited about my 'new found' purchase I started using it right away and it chipped up small branches and some brush I had ok..

I think the 8 HP engine helps allot.. As my week progressed after replacing the front bearing, it dawned on my that I needed a new blade, at least as a spare, so I ordered one off of eBay. I did email the seller and quiz him about where his blades came from, were they hardened, etc.

And his response was very positive. He has a local machine shop make them from tool steel that they then harden..

As last week progressed, and I moved from chipping dead Ė dry pine to working on the dead dry Ash I thought I should look into sharpening the chipper blade, while I waited for the new one to arrive.

I took the blade out and touched it up on my bench grinder.. Nothing special or particularly perfect about my sharpening.. These is at-least one chip out the blade that NO amount of grinding is EVER going to remove I did what I thought as a decent job, And I re-installed the blade..

The sharpening helped, the ash came out as shavings and curls more than chips..

WELL.. Yesterday my new blade arrived and I put it in the chipper. All I can say is OMG !!

I fired the chipper up and put the first ash tree limb into it and expected to have to stand there and push, shove, ram, cram the limb into the chipper.. I was struck dumb, when the limb actually feed itself into the chipper !! I was thinking to myself that this can not be happening.. I have been shoving and trying to cram stuff into the machine all week, and now with a NEW blade it's self feeding????

I even went do far as I also cut down some bushy 3 inch diameter trees, that were green, and I fed the entire tree into the chipper.. Now I actually have to pull back on the limbs as I feed them so it won't over feed and over whelm itself.. I am just amazed at the ruggedness of these chippers 1st of all, and Second that a new blade could make those kind so differences..

Needless to say I am going to order a second blade as a spare. The amazing thing is that I have Ebay sort the 'buy it nows' by cost, price & shipping, lowest first.. And this seller located in Texas was the cheapest supplier for me in the midwest.. $32.50 for the blade all total with shipping..

Long live the Tomahawk Chipper.

OH, and this video on YouTube, My chipper shredder chipping wood - YouTube the guys not kidding ! I did exactly the same thing, last night with a new blade to about 4 trees like that. (and my unit has the stock Briggs 8 HP 190412 engine on it.)
 
  #50  
Old 04-18-12, 05:46 AM
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Some of the earlier machines had centrifugal clutches. Mine came with an idler and lever setup to tighten the belt to start the chipper after the engine has warmed up. Having serviced both types of units in the shop, I think the units without the clutch are easier to run.
 
  #51  
Old 04-18-12, 08:32 AM
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Clutches

I have a model 11389, which I am trying to date.. It does not have the side discharge, like the 1989 and later models.. But, its also NOT a WW Grinder machine..

Anyway, it has the belt type clutch, which IMHO is less problematic than the Centrifugal clutches. I think I read in the WW Grinder manual, that I found here: Troy-Bilt Manuals and Gravely parts that the Centrifugal clutches can be damaged if you cause the engine to slow down, which causes the clutch to disengage, then when the engine speeds back up the clutch tries to re-engage, which slows the engine, etc, etc. Basically you burn up the clutch.

The belt clutch also allowed them to remove any throttle mechanism from the engine.. My Briggs is adjusted for governed wide open, 3600 RPM and as soon as it starts it go to W.O.T. and stays there until I turn it off.

Also the belt is a WHOLE lot cheaper and easier to replace than the Centrifugal clutch..
 
  #52  
Old 04-23-12, 10:11 AM
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clutch lever with idler pulley

Thanks for the update on the "missing" centrifugal clutch. Like you, I read all of the cautions about abusing the clutch, then noticed that my machine does not even have one.
I just bought two Dayton 5L290 V belts from amazon.com. $20 total, including tax and shipping charges. And, like you said, sdunt, a whole lot easier to replace than a clutch. I had to remove a link in handle-mounted clutch lever chain, but the machine purrs like a Ferrari.
By the way, I suggest some sort of push stick when shredding leaves. I made one from a piece of scrap 2"x2", approx 48" long. Attached a 5"x7" piece of vinyl floor tile as a plow to end. Cut a few extra pieces of floor tile because they will get chewed up. Easier to replace the floor tiles than your fingers!!!
 
  #53  
Old 04-23-12, 08:39 PM
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Super Tomahawk model 10941

I need to find the user manual and parts list for the Super Tomahawk model 10941, serial number W815563.

I thought I was buying a good machine, but it turns out it's not worth the money I paid for it.

Anyway, I need to replace the belt, and sharpen all of the blades.

I can not get the "key stock" removed from the front pulley, and I think the hex-head on the rear pulley is striped.

can anyone help?

Thanks

Reply to ****************
 

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  #54  
Old 04-24-12, 06:20 AM
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We can help with that.

Howdy, Sorry you feel like you have a lemon, but stay with us and we can get that guy running again for you..

The parts list and diagram is available online here: - list# - PartsAndService - View Illustrated Parts Catalogues - ipl.cgi.v305 1 -, just walk through the menus, Change the 'ayp' drop down to troybilt click on select product line.. Drop down the 'brush cutters' box and select chipper shredders, click select category, use that drop down list to select your model 10941, click select model. Leave the 'main assembly' there and click select page and it will display a single page graphic of the unit with parts list.

There are no parts available from TroyBilt - MTD anymore for these guys, BUT the parts you would - could need are available from other sources. the bearings are off the shelf at most bearing or farm supply stores. The chipper knives are available on Ebay. I have purchased from this seller and I can personally recommend him and his parts: Replacement Chipper Knives


That is the correct replacement model chipper knife for your model of chipper. The flail hammers are also being made up and sold on Ebay, take a look at: Chipper Shredder Flails/Hammers Troy-Bilt 1756904, 1915700HT and 1915700ZMA |
(and there are several other listings, I just picked one, I have not had to replace my hammers yet)

Seems someone also has the bearings on Ebay, marked up a little, but not bad price: Bearing for Troy-Bilt Tomahawk Chippers 1762621 (Older part #: 97130) I think I paid $12 for the same bearing at the local bearing store.
And yes, the locking collar looks different from what you have on the machine right now, but its a direct replacement and works great. I've got about 20 to 30 running hours on new bearings mostly chipping ash trees.


Quote: I can not get the "key stock" removed from the front pulley, and I think the hex-head on the rear pulley is striped. Quote.

I am confused by your reference to 'front pulley'. On the front of the units where the chipper chute is, there is a bearing that is most likely totally rusted on and onto the shaft. Read through my post http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...t-chipper.html and see if that helps explain how to replace the bearings..

With old rusted equipment you get familiar with penetrating oils and methods of 'persuasion' Get some quality penetrating oil Ė Kano Kroil is highly rated.. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. In a pinch mix up Dextron tranny fluid and acetone 50 Ė 50 and soak the joints with that.

If the hex set screws on the back drive pulley are stripped or too rusted, you can drill them out. Select a drill that fits in the hole and also mark the drill with tape so you drill only down to the shaft and not INTO the shaft when you are doing this.. Also don't dismiss the possibility that you might have to cut the pulley up to get it off. Again replacements are on Ebay, the local bearing Ė farm store. Or Belts and pulleys can be had at Surplus Center I order from them all of the time and their parts are quality.. Just match up the sizes and you should be good to go.

I don't know about finding an owners manual, but there are several manuals on this site: Troy-Bilt Manuals and Gravely parts for example the tech manual is a good overview of how to take the machine apart and replace the bearings and knives..

Keep in touch, we can help you figure this out.

p.s method of choice for cutting things like the pulley off of the shaft are $40 Porter Cable angle grinder from Lowes Shop PORTER-CABLE 4" 7-Amp Trigger Swith Corded Angle Grinder at Lowes.com and Dewalt 1/8 inch thick metal cutting discs. For more delicate operations like the bearing races, use a Dremel and Dremel's metal cutting discs..
 
  #55  
Old 04-24-12, 09:20 AM
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Flail hammers and replacing chipper knife in OLD WW grinder style Super

Please read through both of those forum threads, there's lots of good information in them like:

"I just bought two Dayton 5L290 V belts from amazon.com. $20 total"

a 5l290 belt is a stock item at auto and farm parts stores. Napa probably has one in stock..

Based on what you are saying you want to replace BOTH bearings ?? You already have the pulley off? If all you want to do is replace the chipper blade and flip the fails around, you don't have to disassemble the main shaft - assembly to do that.

Check out http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals...lManualWM.pdfl for an explanation of how to change the bearings. To change the flail hammers you do NOT have to remove the entire shaft and assembly from inside of the unit. In http://www.brentchalmers.com/Literat...nersManual.pdf (that a 93 owners, but the process is the same) it explains how to get the shafts that the flails are attached to out of the machine so you can turn the flails. there are 4 'edges' on each flail, so they can be turned 3 times before they need to be replaced. My unit is not that much newer than your unit, mines a 1988 model, and the flails are still on their original 'edge'

There is a good picture of worn VS new 'edges' on the flails on page 32 of that users manual.

The key that is stuck in the shaft can be removed if you tap it in or out gently with a hammer and punch so you can apply the impact to the key only. Some times depending on size, etc, I use side cutters - Diagonal cutters to grip the sides of the key above the shaft and lever it out..

The knife is a three bolt replacement by only taking off the chipper chute, and sticking your arm up (remove the screen) into the shredder housing to hold the nuts on the back side of the chipper disk. On my model the shredder and the chipper share the same space. your model the chipper is separated from the shredder by a wall.

http://www.partsandservice.com/db/pl...t/10941.01.gif

It looks like, if that diagram is accurate that the bolts that hold the chipper knife on are threaded (tapped) into the chipper disk.. On the later models there are locking nuts behind that disc that hold the blade on. In the replacement blade kit you get, you might not need the included nylon locking nuts.

Probably time to use flashlight, mirror, etc to look up in to the chipper outlet and see if there are nuts on the back of that plate or not. Also digital cameras are a great way to see 'inside' of things. Stick your hand with the camera up into or down into the shredder assembly and snap some pictures. You can get a quick glance on the camera's screen, or move the photos to your PC and blow them WAY out to see what going on.

Of course the chipper should not be running when you are doing that.. :-)



Scott Dunt


On 04/24/2012 10:11 AM, Robert Robinson wrote:
>
> Hey Scott, thanks so much for all the info. I really do appreciate it.

> When I bought the machine, I was hoping to start right into shredding, but since I canít, to me itís a lemon.

> Anyway, I know for sure the belt needs to be replaced, but Iím not sure where to get it.
>
> I assumed I had to take everything apart to get to the blades and knife, but if thereís another way, Iíd love to avoid cutting things off.
>
> To me, the front is where the motor is. Thatís the pulley with the key stock that I canít get out. I donít know if I pull it up to get it out, or pry it off to remove it.
>
> The bearing has the hex-head which sounds like Iíll need to drill out. And yes, itís totally rusted. I hope it will come off without being damaged.
 
  #56  
Old 04-26-12, 03:07 AM
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Update on TB rebuild

Last winter my friend helped me disassemble my chipper/shredder - took off the bearings and everything else off both sides of the main shaft. Finally got around to getting new bearings (and pulley wheel that we broke pulling it off). Found the parts at a local Kaman. The bearings are a bit different but look like they'll work.

In any event, I'm putting it back together. Successfully negotiated the chipper chute side just fine, but could not get the bearings or the wheel on the engine side. The shaft looks bigger on that side. Does anyone know what's going on? Did I somehow mess it up using the puller last winter? I'd appreciate any hints and help on this - I'm SO close...
 
  #57  
Old 04-27-12, 08:07 AM
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You may have 'mushroomed' the shaft

I have to admit I only own one of these machines. But in looking at the various manuals on the net, and just being a repair kind of a guy. I would doubt very much that the shaft size changes from the front of the unit to the back.

If you don't have micrometers, or digital calipers (you can get a decent set at Harbor Freight for less than $20), you can use a 'crescent' - adjustable wrench to check the size of the front and back shaft. Just close the wrench so it fits snuggly on the front shaft, then check the back shaft near where the bearing sits, should be the same size. Then check where the pulley goes.

I would bet that if you applied enough pressure to the shaft to break the pulley, you could have mushroomed the end of the shaft. Not to worry or panic.

If you want the really accurate way of doing this, have someone with a metal lathe, might need to go to a welding shop, 'turn down' the end of the shaft back to the 1 inch size so the bearing and pulley fit.

Or being careful with a metal file and using the part of the shaft nearer the bearing as a guide file down the end of the shaft until the pulley fits. This is one of those take it slow and check the fit often. You don't want a loose pulley, so the idea is to not over do it. There are solutions to that IT it happens. For example you can use Loctite #660 to fill in under the pulley and lock it the shaft. Loctite #660 Quick Metal Gap Filler; High Viscosity .2oz/6ml | eBay


I know when replacing the front bearing on mine I had to emery paper the shaft to get the rust off, and then the bearing fit very closely and I had to slide it on with out rocking it side to side at all..

If you can locate a pipe, even PVC will do, that is just slightly over 1 inch inside diameter, and the end is cut off perfectly square, you can use that to help push the bearing back on, and down the shaft to the proper location. Whatever you use needs to push on the inside race of the bearing NOT the outside, or the seal area inbetween, other wise you will destroy the bearing. PVC pipe is a good choice for bearing 'drivers' because if you hit it TOO hard, the plastic breaks.

So the shaft needs to be clean and dirt - dust free.. Do not put oil on it, that will only help the bearing slip later on and damage the shaft.

One thought, is check your rear bearing fit against the front side of the shaft. see if it fits there.

With bearing work, some kind, any kind of calipers or measuring tools are a must just for sanity sake. I have a set of these digital calipers: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-47257.html and I use them all of the time.

Plastics ones like this are OK, I use them more for woodworking, but in a pinch you can tell if its a 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch shaft with these guys: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...iper-7914.html

I caught this set of micrometers on sale, like they are now, and I had a 20% off coupon (check any edition of the FamilyHandyMan magazine) so I got 3 micrometers for like $30 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-66512.html

Keep in touch.. these old Tomahawks are too well built of machines to let them die..
 
  #58  
Old 04-27-12, 09:05 AM
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scott -

thanks for the info. I must admit I was thinking I had to go out and buy a new shaft which would also mean totally disassembling that whole assembly inside the machine.

I have friends with calipers and they can help me with filing down this bad boy.

I'll start working on it again this weekend and update next week.

again, thanks!

jack
 
  #59  
Old 05-11-12, 06:04 PM
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Hey, all; back again. I successfully filed and sanded the shaft and am ready to reassemble this beastie. I have two questions (out of many I'm sure). Okay, the two brackets that hold the bearings on each side - do they both on the outside of the housing or sandwich it? I am embarrassed to admit I didn't make a drawing then I took it apart and the exploded parts diagram I have does not specify this. Also, any tricks for holding the heads of the bolts snug against the inside of the housing tighten these two assemblies? (I hope this makes sense). I'd appreciate any help.
 

Last edited by doc; 05-11-12 at 06:06 PM. Reason: typo
  #60  
Old 05-13-12, 02:15 AM
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The bearing housing halves both go on the outside of the chipper housing.
 
  #61  
Old 05-14-12, 09:04 AM
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Re Installing the Bearings

"do they both on the outside of the housing or sandwich it?" Both halves of the bearing mount, both 'flanges' go on the outside of the chipper housing. If the 2 halves are NOT together they will not be able to hold the bearing from turning.

"any tricks for holding the heads of the bolts snug against the inside of the housing tighten these two assemblies?"

The http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals...alManualWM.pdf manual on Page 6 has an explanation of the factories method of holding all of this together while assembling it. They contend that you can use masking tape inside the chipper, over the heads of the bolts to hold them in place until you get the 1st bearing flange on .. Then put a rubber band around the bolts to hold them and add the bearing, 2nd flange, nuts and tighten it all up.

In my case I used some rare earth magnets I had in the shop. I put them on the outside of the chipper and they had enough power to hold the bolts in place while I got everything together.. Either process should work..
 
  #62  
Old 05-14-12, 09:17 AM
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thanks, I ended up using some combination of these various methods and have that whole assembly just about done. Started putting the engine back on. Unfortunately, I've found a 2-3" bolt that I don't recognize. I'll have to look at the exploded parts diagram and see if I can identify it. Otherwise, the shaft seems to turn pretty nicely when I turn it by hand. So far so good.
 
  #63  
Old 05-21-12, 03:22 PM
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Unhappy Cwc

[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE][TABLE="class: MsoNormalTable, width: 90%"]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent"][SIZE=3][/SIZE][SIZE=3]Hi do they make a tow bar for this 15014S TOMAHAWK VI
or maybe a print of one?
I would like to pull it to the location needed, to hard by hand. Thanks CWC
[/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
 
  #64  
Old 05-21-12, 03:36 PM
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Yes, they do - or at least did. It's great for hauling the machine around. Can't say where you might find one nowadays, though. Good luck finding one - a great investment.
 
  #65  
Old 05-22-12, 06:17 AM
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Tow Hitch or Ramps?

The factory tow hitch for the Tomahawk attached to the back, hopefully the only postage stamp sized picture I could find is visible.

Personally up to this point I have been rolling my unit up my mower ramps into the back of my utility trailer.. My old unit does not have the side discharge, its a bottom discharge.. Which means it spews chips everywhere. The best way I have found to coral them is to put the chipper in the trailer, then when the chips build up I drive the trailer over to where I want chips and unload it.. The trailer makes it a little high to access the shredder hopper, but the chipper chute is right about the perfect height.
 
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  #66  
Old 05-22-12, 08:42 AM
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Red face Tow Hitch

Thanks for your help. I think I can build one?
 
  #67  
Old 05-22-12, 09:49 AM
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Question Tomahawk 15014S

[SIZE=3][/SIZE][SIZE=3]Hi, does anybody happen to know, what would be a replacementengine for a Tomahawk 15014S. Thanks CWC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
 
  #68  
Old 05-23-12, 08:51 AM
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Repowering Tomahawk

Well, the 1st question is do you have a 5 HP model or an 8 HP model. If its an 8 hp, you probably have a Briggs model 190412 engine on it.. Which are fairly common engines.

As for repowering, I am more of an engine swapper. I have bought many dead riding mowers and taken the engines out and put on another piece of equipment. (Low end mowers tend to rust out and tear up the mowing deck before the engine dies)

If you are OK with waiting around for the right item and having a used engine, you can start looking on craigs list for anything that has a Briggs 8hp on it as an example. Or on eBay.. I have trolled eBay and Craigs list for that matter for months to find a mower, etc with the right engine for a swap out. But for many times $50 to $100 max, its a WHOLE lot cheaper than the $400 Small Engine Warehouse - Repower Outdoor Power Equipment wants for a complete new engine.

One other site I have purchased from, not engines though, is Surplus Center - 8 HP BRIGGS & STRATTON INTEK ENGINE

That's for an 8 HP Briggs "intek" engine.. The main thing you have to match up, are the mounting bolt pattern around the crankshaft. If the Crank size is different you can just get a replacement pulley from surplus center and swap that out.. You'll, probably want to remove the old engine and measure the bolt hole spacing and the crankshaft size, etc. That bolt hold spacing should be standard and I would doubt that its changed over the years, but I like to check everything.

ONLY the old Briggs 1904xx engines will match the top engine mounting bracket that is used on the 8 HP engines, so IF you switch to that Intek or a Honda, etc , you will have to Fabricate somehow, a new - different engine mounting bracket.

And that bracket does not necessarily have to attach to the top of the engine. TroyBilt kind of cheated IMHO on how they mounted the engines on these guys. The 4 bolt holes around the crankshaft are actually there so you can bolt on a pressure washer pump, etc. Those holes and the casting were NOT intended to hold the entire weight of the engine. That's what the 4 mounting holes on the base of the engine are for. With the extra weight of the 8 HP engine (the 5 HP models don't use the top engine mount) they had to add that top mounting bracket to compensate.

If you swap engines, you can possibly add a bottom mounting for the new engine, in addition to the 4 bolts, by putting an "angle plate" under the engine and bolting it on: Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies A local machine shop should be able to weld up something similar, or a friend with a welder.. Pictures are just good to help understand the description.

keep in touch.. If you are not in a huge hurry there are lots of options. Check eBay for chippers I saw one listed this week for $100 starting bid that has a 8 HP Briggs on it, but its out east and too far from me.
 
  #69  
Old 05-24-12, 11:12 AM
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Troy Bilt 15014S

Thanks for your help. CWC
 
  #70  
Old 05-26-12, 09:24 AM
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Question Super Tomahawk

Hi I think mine is a 5HP, because it has only has 12 shredder blades.Also the number on the Tecumseh engine is H35456136. So how do you cross reference the old number for a replacement motor?

Thanks CWC
 
  #71  
Old 05-29-12, 07:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Specs

I found the H35 mounting, bolt hole specs here: Tecumseh Model Series H30 and H35

BUT, Tecumseh model numbers usually indicate the Horse Power output of the engine.. An Hx80 is an 8 HP , a Hx70 is 7 HP, a 5 HP should be a Hx50. An Hx35 is a 3 horse, at least that's what I am finding.

Check eBay, or craigs list, I find all kinds of engines that way.
 
  #72  
Old 05-29-12, 09:57 AM
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Troy Bilt H-35

Thanks for your help. CWC
 
  #73  
Old 05-29-12, 12:43 PM
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Question Tomahawk 15014S

Hi can anbody tell me what the spacing needs to be, between the flails and spacers? They definitely need to be rotated.

Thanks CWC
 
  #74  
Old 06-18-12, 09:43 AM
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Posts: 9
Tension adjustment

[SIZE=3][/SIZE][SIZE=3]Hi I just thought I would leave an update I bought apredator engine from Harbor freight works excellent. I had to put a spacer plate between theengine and original frame. Also, I builta mounting bracket for the engine to set on. The only question I have. Ifsomebody has an answer is, I can't get the tension adjustment, adjustedcorrectly, to stay in the locked position. Everything is put together according to the manual. Does anybody have any recommendations on thetension adjustment? Thanks[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
 
  #75  
Old 06-20-12, 12:51 PM
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Posts: 592
Would getting a longer or shorter belt solve your problem. With a different engine plus the spacer you added, you may need to just get a different belt to work properly.
 
  #76  
Old 06-28-12, 08:48 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
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Belt

Hi The chipper does a great job. I will try a new belt.

Thanks CWC
 
  #77  
Old 08-25-12, 08:38 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Troy Bilt Junior Tomahawk

This is a great thread. After reading how well Troy Bilt chippers are made, I decided to purchase a "used" Junior Tomahawk chipper/shredder I saw listed on Craigs List. While it doesn't have the big 8HP engine of the larger models, I have been absolutely amazed at what this will do. When I got it home, I opened it up, and it looked like it was used perhaps 2 or 3 times, and then just stored in the guy's garage for the next 20 years !!! The red paint on the inside of the machine is still shiny, and it shows almost no sign of wear from friction from the normal chips/debris that get choppes & pulverized inside !! The guy sold it to me cheap, because he couldn't get it started.

I took the carburetor off, and I sprayed the jets, needle & seat with a few squirts of carb cleaner, and it fires up on the first pull. Seriously, I think this machine was practically new, but it wouldn't start because the carburetor got clogged by the old, evaporated fuel. I've seen this exact same chipper for sale in my area for $ 250, and based on what I've used it for, even that would be a good price. So far, it has quickly chipped & shredded everything I can fit in the chute or hopper. Since the chute is 2 1/2-inches, anything larger I just hack into 4-foot lengths with my chain saw and I place in my green waste bin. Everything else ends up as mulch.

If anyone is contemplating an older Troy Bilt chipper/shredder, I can attest to the fact that they are built to last a long, long time. Much better than the crappy machines that you see at Harbor Freight that are shipped over from China !!! I'd pick up a used Troy Bilt over a brand new made-in-china unit in a heart beat.
 
  #78  
Old 04-25-13, 08:47 AM
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Location: USA
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Drive belt issues

Great thread! I've gotten lots of good info off this discussion and am really liking my TB Super Tomahawk (1989 vintage - Model 15012). It ran when I bought it but had a fuel leak and a dull chipper knife. I rebuilt the carb (float bowl had a small pinhole) and sharpened the knife. Works much better. The belt on it when purchased was 1/2" wide; it was also cracked and broke after a short time. I found a replacement belt from a local auto parts store (Dayco #L529); 5/8" x 29". I adjusted the tension according to the manual and within 10 minutes noticed the belt was cracked; broke within 30 minutes of use. Exchanged for another; same problem. Also bought one online; D&D Power Drive. Seemed much better quality and lasted about an hour before suffering the same fate. I notice the belt vibrating when the idler pulley is engaged; is this an indication of anything? I pulled it off but didn't notice anything odd. Is there any brand of belt folks are using that works? I noticed Sears has one for about $38; is there something special about it? Any help would be much appreciated. Keep these old machines working! They are well bilt!

Tom
 
  #79  
Old 04-25-13, 01:51 PM
doc
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Belt - and pull cord problems

Tom -

Yeah, my belts don't last terribly long either. I have found one brand that seems to last for at least some time. I'm at work and can't remember the brand, but I'll try and remember to look it up when I get home (I actually saved the cardboard sleeve - go figure). I think I paid $15 or so for it at a local auto parts store.

As for the cause of this - I'm not sure. In the past I thought it might be caused by small sharp burrs on the pulleys and considered trying taking sandpaper to the grooves. Never did, though. Anyone else have any ideas as to cause?

By the way - since I have your attention. As you may know I finished rebuilding 8 H Super. Runs great, but it seems that in putting it back together I screwed something up - after I pull the starting cord it doesn't spring back into place so I have to manually turn the mechanism counterclockwise before I pull it again. I don't see any obvious way to take this apart and fix it - any ideas?????
 
  #80  
Old 04-26-13, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Belts and Recoil starters

There are numerous videos on YouTube as to how to rewind and repair Briggs starters, I would suggest you start there for the starting rope issue.

As for belt life. I run the snot out of my Super Tomahawk and the same belt is several hears old now. For short belt life, I would investigate:

Are the Bearings in the Idler pulley good?

Does the Idler run straight?

Are the Bearings in the chipper good? For example after running when I loosen the belt clutch and shutdown the engine the 'cylinder' in my chipper keeps spinning on its own for SEVERAL Minutes.. Like I can shut it down, and move it and about the time I'm ready to fire up for another batch of leaves or sticks, the cylinder finally stops. Anything slower is an indication of bad bearings or something rubbing.

Do the pulleys run straight? I don't know how they could get bent back in behind where they are located. But something to check.

Are the pulleys Loose on either shaft, Engine or chipper and thus flopping around?

Are the pulleys excessively worn? take a look at V Belt Groove Details Sheave - Engineers Edge.. I don't know how without digital calipers or similar how to measure pulleys. Mainly look at how well the belt fit into the groove of the pulley.

I also attached documentation from TB on what proper belt tension adjustment.
 
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