parts for old troy bilt tomahawk chipper

I am new here. This forum works kinda like another I use for my vintage Jaguar. Old guy, old house, old dog, old cars and old tools, most of them. I brought the latest, A Troybilt Tomahawk powered by a Troybilt engine by Tecumseh. The seller and I got it into the back of my Jeep Grand Cherokee. with the back seats forward, it just fit on it's side. I got it ut at home alone, I use the controlled fall technique.

It is missing a drive belt. I have some numbers that might be it. DOC 97133? and generic dimensions of 5/8" by 291/4. I am not confident in them as I am not sure zi got the model iD right.

it is a Tomahawk, no mention of super. M 150285 S # T2100578

Gee, I thought I had a well known current thing. Wrong, I got an orphan, but, I am imprseed by the way it is built and this one look in decent shape.

Any info as to locating a manual and or parts descriptive drawings or lists. e

Right now, I need a belt.

help !!!

Carl

 

When I still had the shop after Troybilt went under, I used the 5/8 belts in the 29 1/4 length that you can get anywhere fan belts are sold. I used the heavy duty belts from Gates for years with no problems. You will have to look closely at the Idler pulley for smooth operation and readjust the tension on the spring. You can not just engage the idler/tension unit to start the unit turning but have to slip the belt until the chipper is up to speed before the tensioner is locked on over center. There was an internet site where the manual has been copied to pdf format.

 

Might that model be 15028 S as in SAM instead of 285? That would make it a Tomahawk 4: http://www.partsandservice.com/db/pl.../15028s.01.gif

OPE Manuals & Parts Lists has manuals for download and somewhere around here there is supposed to be a common parts list document.. Which I can not find right now. So here goes:

TroyBilt Chipper/Shredder Most wanted list
From “Fall 1990 Chipper Owner News” letter.

Flail – Hammers
TroyBilt Murray - New
Model Part Number Part Number
3HP “Junior” Model 4604
ALL OTHER MODELS W20307503 1900102

V-Belts – Drive Belts
TroyBilt Industry Standard
Model Serial Range Part Number Part Number
3.5HP W300100-up 97133* 5L290
4HP W400100-up 97133* 5L290
5HP 840000-843153 W5L350 5L350
5HP 843154-W502630 W5L260 5L260
5HP W502631-up 97133* 5L290
8HP W000000-W805024 W5L280 5L280
8HP W805025-up 97133* 5L290
PTO ALL Models 9036 4L360? Unconfirmed.

* This author can confirm that A Gates Brand 5L290 – Part Number 6929 is a direct replacement for the 97133 belt.

Chipper Knife
TroyBilt New
Model Serial Range Part Number Part Number Dimensions
All Except 3HP Models W2030905 1901824 1/4” x 4 1/4” x 1 1/4” 3 – 1/4” Mounting Holes
3HP B01000-up 4612 NO longer available

Note that apparently 8HP models serial W817649 have TWO chipper knives in them instead of the standard single blade.

Bearing and Shaft Kits
Bearing Kit Shaft Kit
Model Serial Range Part Number Part Number
3.5HP W300100-W301662 WBK100* WSK100
4HP W400100-up WBK100* WSK400
5HP Shredder Only WSBK100 WSBK100
5HP Chipper/Shredder
840000-850808 WSBK200 WSBK200
W500000-W503995 WSBK200 WSBK200
W503996-W505870 WBK200 WSK200
W505871-W507172 WBK100* WSK300
W505872-up WBK100* WSK100
8HP Chipper/Shredder
W800000-W808959 WSBK200 WSBK200
W808960-W814315 WBK200 WSBK200
W814316-W817649 WBK100* WSK300
W817650-up WBK100* WSK100
PTO W100000-W101840 WSBK200 WSBK200
W101841-102154 WSBK200 WSK200
W102155-up WBK100* WSK300

* This author can confirm that the WBK100 bearing kit is a 1 inch ID standard self-centering ball bearing. It can be replaced with Industry standard bearings in my case a Timken “RA100RRB+COL” is a direct replacement.

 

Thanks for the addition as I could not find the site when I went to reply. I have been away from the shop for over four years now and still follow the site and help when I can. Thanks again.

 

SDunt:

That is great information. I've saved it to disc. My printer is fussy this morning!!

Well, it looks like the Tecumseh bit the economic dust!! Carb rebuild flopped. Still leaks from somewhere. It didn't help that I busted the main jet, changing it from adjustable to fixed at some mix!! Ether prime gets a kick or two but no run. At about 50 for a carb at best, local guy asking 95!!!

Son kicked in for a HF Predator 6HP. Nice OHV device resembling a Honda!!

4 HP Tecumseh is off with mounting plate. Wrestling commenced to remove drive pulley. Looks like it may get chopped off, to free the engine mount plate!! EPA neutered penetrants seem to do little or nothing!!

The rest of the machine is in very nice condition.

Thanks again.

Carl

 

Can't find my s # in the series given. Not a biggie at this time. Somewhere around twenty years old! Not too shabby condition either.

The Allen head set screw refused all toque that I could apply. So, I drilled it down to almost the bottom!! Not that hard of a material and I had a quite new sharp bit! Just right for my HF angle drive cordless.

Next, I fitted my three arm gear puller. And then the electric impact and little by little it began to move and then came free right at the end!! Pulley off and useable.

The tskeoff bolt pattern on the predator is the same as that on the Tecumseh it will replace. But, the two oil caps and one other boss on the face stand just a tad proud!! Spacer needed, not much of one though, 1/4 more than adequate.

Locating and marking the four holes not too formidable for me. I'll have to fix my HF metal cutting band saw, though. The big hole for the crank snout, a bit more of an issue. Not sure where my hardened hole saws are??? Son!!!!

I'll clean the pulleys well, a tad rough and would eat belts.

Thanks again, a machine on it's way back. I like that.

Carl

 

Consider that you only need that 1/4" spacer at the mounting bolt holes. At our local "Menards" home center in the electrical department they sell steel tracks (unistrut) for mounting conduit, etc.

In the accessories for that they have 1/4 inch thick 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 square 'washers' with predrilled holes. 01052011_Unistrut_US

You could put one 'washer' on each mounting bolt and space the engine out correctly quite easily.

I picked up a package of these up with 1/2 holes as I need extra thick washers to mount the lawn mower blades on by rider..

 

Sdunt:

Thanks. Durn, I was at the local hardware store yesterday. Got myself a recycled pair of overalls. Twenty bucks and in good order less a bit of fading!!! PO's name tag removed!!!

I considered washers. I was/am leary as that hangs the load off the bolts with little or no help from clamping force. But, the clamping force I am thinking of may not be as much as I envisage. I will look some more.

And, as to 1/4" thick, I can cut some from scrap stock and drill them to size.

My mind is working on the 90 degree support for the underside of the Predator.
I have some strap about 4" wide by 1/4 thick. Bent, drilled and possibly strutted
And attached at the bottom to the lower removable pulley guard. Might be a place to work on my non existant MIG welding skill. I have a small HF unit that
has seen little use. I shudder to even think of refilling my oxy acetylene tanks!!!

Carl

 

Progress. Two steps forward and one back!!!

My son made a very nice adapter plate in alloy. About 1/2" thick. A perfect hole in the center. Alas, off on the four mount screws. Not a big issue. My old drill press and a sharp bit and new ones transferred right from the TB plate.

The thick angle that supported the Tec from above was repurposed with a couple of new holes and now supports the Predator from below.

New longer bolts in NF and with locktite and washers is secure.

The belt guard was altered to accommodate this by nipping off a corner and redrilling for one of the support bolts.

Alas!!! The drive pulley from the Tec is 7/8" while the predator's is 3/4"!
Not only that, but the pulley would not line up over the driven below.

Shopping for new pulley of the necessary length, diameter and sheave dimension. One possible on Ebay, offer made.

Belt bought and should be here Thursday.

We went ahead and mounted the Predator to the TB. Looks awesome. It fired easily and sounds loud!!! Three hour low throttle break in to follow.

Carl

 

I have a 1991 TB 8hp Tomahawk chipper/shredder Model 47251. The belt listed in the parts catalog is #97130. I have gone through multiple belts purchased locally. The last two I purchased was a Delco 5L290 (it did not last very long before it broke) and A NAPA 5L290W Green HD. I am still using it.

Currently, I am trying to replace the bearings. I have one off and trying to remove the other one without success at present. I have not found a source for replacement bearing (97130 [with locking collar and set screw]). Chalmers Industries.com listed some bearings but not with that part number. Do any members have a suggestion as to another source for the bearings? I tried one local bearing business but they did not have it. Would a regular bearing encased in the bearing flanges that holds the shaft in proper position work in the event I can not find OME bearing ?

I have original manual and parts catalog w/ schematics if some one needs them. I could scan them and send by email attachment or fax.

thanks

Desmond

 

You need to go back a few posts in this thread. There is an entire replacement parts listing and cross reference listing posted along with:

This author can confirm that the WBK100 bearing kit is a 1 inch ID standard self-centering ball bearing. It can be replaced with Industry standard bearings in my case a Timken “RA100RRB+COL” is a direct replacement.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...#ixzz2WfseLW48

That Timken "farm implement" bearing has been in my TB chipper for over a year now and so far I can count that I have created 7 to 10 cubic YARDS of chipped wood with the unit and the bearing is just fine.

and, Yes, the locking collar of a Standard bearing will extend past the end of the shaft in the front, which should not be an issue.. If you are the least bit worried about the bearing coming loose, put some 'red' loktite on the shaft. Or, if the shaft is worn at all, use Loktite #660 to fill and lock the bearing on..The bearing shop should stock 660 and IF they don't .. Go somewhere else..

Make SURE before the LokTite 660 sets up, that you have everything assembled the way you want it, because once #660 sets up, the ONLY way to get the bearing off is to cook it with a propane torch and burn the 660 out of the joint, which means your new bearing will be junk.

 

Sdunt:

Thank you for the additional information. I saw the thread yesterday but apparently I did not read it close enough.

Desmond

 

Guile replaces strength as the years go by! I was faced with removing and replacing the predator to install a different drive pulley. It is heavy and a bit clumsy. I was alone. I used a belt and braces system. A rope rigged around the power unit and up to a pulley suspended from the garage rafter. And then two jack stands with a board connecting them. Removed the 4 nuts and bolts and backed the power unit away just enough to access the engine shaft. The replacement double sheave pulley was just right in length, diameter, belt width, and bore diameter. I tapped it on and aligned it with the clutch/idler pulley. Moving it toward the engine when in place might be workable. Moving it forward or away from the engine, not so much.

I reversed the process and used two old stripped out Phillips screwdrivers to align a pair of holes, then, one by one install the nuts and bolts to secure the engine plate to the Chipper. The last one gave one a fight before I got the nut on it!!

But, alas, that is all my old shoulders could handle. Belt guard to go!!

A straight edge on the drive to driven pulleys shows the alignment is good. Eureka, tightened the two Allen set screws in place.

Errands, complete project and chip some on agenda for today!!

So far, I am very pleased with the unit. Heavy beast, though. I've a low step or two to get into the back yard. Not sure how I will handle that!!!

Carl

 

Well it is totally assembled in it's repowered configuration. But, at tinmes, the last step is the most problematic!

I installed the belt guard. Easy when fresh. Got to use one of my racheting box wrenches. Slick.

Fired the engine. OK, rolled it out of the shop to a place to toss in some prunings. OH, oh, it tossed the belt!!! Shut it down. Replaced the belt, pulled the start rope. Almost fired, but tossed the belt again.

Now, I see why it was sold sans drive belt!!!

Driver pulley to driven pulley well aligned. Idler pulley not so much.

1`. Some one messed with belt tension? It plays a part in the disengaged position as well?

2. The "new" belt is too stiff and fails to stay in the grooves?

3. Someone messed with the idler spacing?

I wonder if I can fire it with drive engaged? Fire it sans belt. warm it up. shut it down. Set belt, engage and fire it???

Or reset tension. and/or re set idler spacers ?

Rumination in progress!!

Sure does look like a nice piece of equipment, though!!!

Carl

 

In the final stages!!! Whacked my hand good. That will delay me for a while!!!
This old hide isn't as tough as it once was.

Drive pulley was close but not close enough to the driven pulley!!! I used a bit of cardboard to make a story board. Marked of the distance from the chipper wall to the face of the driven pulley, closest to the wall.

Compared the same to the drive pulley face to the chipper wall! Off about 1/4" or so. It looked OK from sone angles???

I thought I would have to remove the engine to access the pulley and pull it out a tad. Eureka, loosened the set screws/ I was able to lever it out with a Tommy bar!! A bit of back and fro and right on. tightened the set screws. Much better alignment, idler included!!!

Alas, I can't pull the cord vigourously enough to fire the Predator???

More ruminstion???

Carl

 

My son came over and gave me a hand. I busted the idler/clutch tension adjustment bolt. Trip to the store got another 5" x 14" 20 pitch! It busted in the farmost swivel. Drill it out and tap. Nope, simpler. Drilled new hole 90 degrees away. Tapped that. Asian tap not so good. Craftsman unit cut new threads nicely. Reinstalled assembly. Tension so far not as critical as manual leads one to believe!!

Predator's start instructions lead me to flood engine. Cleared flood. Used simpler protocol. Try a pull at 1/3 throttle no choke. Nope on cold engine. Set choke and pull and fired and ran nicely, reduced choke as it warmed.

The branch tunnel is not effective. Dull blade? The hopper takes small limbs just fine. Bushy stuff need the help of the plastic rammer that came with the machine.

Made a small pile of chips as a maiden run. Just about right for mulch and or composting!!

Now, just prime and paint a couple of rust spots and it is a nice piece of equipment.

The Predator is loud and does not lack for power. 1/3 throttle and it eats the stuff.

Now, in to hibernate. We are having record heat!!!

Yowee, DONE!!

Carl

 

You are correct that a dull blade will cause it to not 'chip' very well. All though you state your engine is loud, these machines are designed to run at only wide open throttle. The original engines didn't have a throttle control, just a spring that ran it up to wide open when it started up. My Original Briggs 8 HP has a choke lever a run - stop switch and that's it.. When I pull the rope and start it, it goes to wide open and stays there until I flip the stop switch..

Some of the workings of it, the brush shoot for example, is a 'hammer mill" and it is designed to run at full speed, other wise the hammers will not have the centrifugal force they need to do the job.

Replacement blades are available on eBay, there are a couple of machine shops that are using modern tool steel to make the blades. I bought 2 new ones and I can chip anything I can get in the funnel. The replacements I got are very high qaulity and the one thing that seems to dull the edge is shredding leaves of all things. There must be jsut enough abrasive junk mixed in that it dulls the chipping knife..

My analysis after starting out with a dull blade and then getting a new sharp blade is that if the unit won't self feed 1 inch and large green limbs in the chipper 'funnel' the blade is dull and needs sharpening..

 

Sdunt:

Thanks for the clarification.

I'll just use the top chute for a time. Lots of small stuff to grind. 1/3 throttle on the Predator seems to do the flails just fine.

When I get to another section of removal of old growth, I'll look into a new blade. As my unit was originly a 4 HP Tecumseh powered thing, it only has one chipper blade.

I may try it again, The test branch may have been from the Loquat tree, it is hard, and t might have been an older prune and therefore dry and harder yet!! I can always send the bigger stuff in my green recycle can and just do lighter stuff, of which I have a bountiful supply.

The ironical part is that my son got the 4 HP Tecumseh to run, albeit not very well. Junky carb. Not to mention the main jet I busted!! I gave it to him !

 

I'm rotating the flails on my 47266 Super Tomahawk (8HP B&S, idler pulley). As far as I can tell, no one has ever rotated them, and the first set of corners is pretty much gone -- some of them are just a smooth curve.

I spent most of the afternoon getting the cylinder pins out, but that's done now. The first step in reassembling them is:

Right. Most of the spacer tubes have one end squashed down enough to make it almost impossible to get them over the cylinder pins (which is why it took most of the afternoon to disassemble them).

If I did much DIY stuff, I'd know what to do here; but I don't, and I don't.

Can anyone offer any advice on how to get the spacer tube ends cleaned up so that everything goes back together nicely?

Thanks,

Neil

 

Neil:

So far, I've not gotten inside to work on the flails and/or chipper blade.

As the spacers appear to be tubes and the inner dimension has been squashed then it is a deburing issue of variable consequence. If not too bad, a rat tail file
would probably do the job. If of more serious consequence, a reamer would be called for. If not available, careful use of a drill motor or power source driving a carbide cutter. A friendly machine shop might agree to hone them for you using their hone intended for piston pin openings in rod ends. If you have a drill bit that is large enough, using it judiciously would trim off the burr quickly.

I am quite pleased with my repowered Super Tomahawk. Now that the belt has seated and the engine has some time on it, it is much easier to start. Neutral. ign on, fuel on, throttle cracked, choke on. One pull!! Remove choke gradually and open throttle, engage blades and pour the material n to the chute. I find that using a five gallon bucket as a scoop just about fills the hopper. Then use the ram and it goes in to the maw. Now, thinking out a means to catch the outflow. The box the predator came in would have been just fine!! Yuk, I tossed it. I did keep a side to shield the engine fan assembly from all the flying dust.

Except for it being so heavy and clumsy, I am more than pleased!!

Carl

 

Carl,

Thanks for the suggestions. I went over to my local hardware store, and they suggested using a 1/2" drill. It was just the ticket -- did all 16 spacers in half an hour or so. For the outsides of the roller pin spacers, which were blocking the free movement of the outer spacer, a ******* file did the job.

Now I've got a brand new chipper blade installed, all the shredder flails rotated; I can hardly wait to try it out again. (The instructions say not to run it for 24 hours after replacing the flails, to let the LocTite on the roll pins cure.)

Regards,

Neil

 

My old TroyBilt chipper shredder came with a Tecumseh 4 HP. Bad carb issues that I could not solve. Son contributed for a new HF 6 HP Predator.

In lieu of washer spacers to clear the oil ports, he made a perfect alloy spacer. Longer bolts and it fastened to the power takeoff just right.

The Tecumseh had a sturdy "l" bracket in essence supporting he engine from above by attachment to the shredder body and then to the Tecumseh head via longer head bolts.

Now, the Predator is a shade heavier. Underside support seemed necessary. I dramed up a couple of fabrication ideas. My son jumped to the quick and merely redrilled the body and flange and mounted it under the Predator. perfect, A heft "L' on one side is more than adequate.

First shredding task done. predator now has enough break in hours. It gets an oil change in preparation for it's next assignment. another mountain of old leaves to chop inot mulch and or stock to become compost.

And, after that, some more over grown shrubbery to conquer. I wilkl change or sharpen the chipping bsr before that shrubb disposal.

I like this machine!!!

Carl

 

Tis a simple task to fire the Predator. fuel on, choke on, ignition on, throttle cracked. One pull and OK. Just a tad or run, slowly open choke and advance throttle to full. Engage idler. Ready to shred. A five gallon bucket of leaves fills the hopper. Use the plastic rammer and whoosh mulch or compost ready stuff.

I found a small storage bin at Rite Aidas a hopper to accept the shredded material. Ok, but a bit small.

The Predator runs great and is broken in. First oil change done.

I use a chunk of card board to partially shield the engine cooling fan from the flying crud and the UV for the Predator's vulnerable plastic.

GREAT !!

Next. remove and sharpen the chipper blade or replace it!!

I like this thing!!

Carl

 

I am new at this so forgive me if I screw something up. I need a wet material baffle for a troy-bilt junior tomahawk chipper/shredder I just got. The man I got it from can't find it. I searched the internet and I cannot find one of these old parts for sale.
I looked at the manual and I believe I can make one of these if I only had the dimensions sent to me.
Is there anybody out there who could draft up this part and provide the dimensions to me.
The model of my Troy bilt machine is 4634T.

 

Brand new here. Looking to purchase the Optional Bar Grate for Model number series 47265/47266/47267/47276. My actual model is the 47267.

Suggestions where I might find them?

Thanks in advance.

 

eBay is about the only source I know of. Start trolling for all things troybilt and chipper. There were some bar grates out there a while ago.

I'm planning to weld up a bar grate for my old unit.. Based on the existing screen, it should not be too hard to make a pattern, etc.

 

Thanks. Did find one on Ebay for $100!? Lot of money, but its to the only one in town, I guess.

Seems like your idea to weld one up is a good idea.

I will keep looking, as you suggest.