Leaking plastic fuel tank
#1
Leaking plastic fuel tank
I have a B&S Quatro plastic fuel tank and houseing(the kind that covers the entire motor) that is leaking at the seam, I have tried epoxy for fuel tanks, won't tick to the plastic, I have tried Seal-All for oil and gas, won't stick to the plastic. A mechanic says to solder the seam with a pencil type solder iron and use small strips cut from the plastic cap of a spray paint/carb cleaner can for solder. Does anyone have any experience repairing plastic fuel tanks? I thought I would ask before I start melting the seam. Oh, and yes I going to drain the remaining fuel and rinse and dry and test the vapor with a torch to make sure it is empty. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and have a nice day. Geo
#3
I have done it too, but don't really reccomend it. You should be able to pick up a tank used from a small engine shop pretty cheap. Safety is a concern with that type repair.
#5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,903
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes
on
2 Posts
What is the model, type and code numbers of your engine? There is a standing recall of certain Briggs fuel tanks which were produced in the early 90's that Briggs will replace for free at any authorized dealer. Post back with your numbers and I'll check if you have the affected tank.
#8
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: baltimore
Posts: 10
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts

Originally Posted by geogrubb
I have a B&S Quatro plastic fuel tank and houseing(the kind that covers the entire motor) that is leaking at the seam, I have tried epoxy for fuel tanks, won't tick to the plastic, I have tried Seal-All for oil and gas, won't stick to the plastic. A mechanic says to solder the seam with a pencil type solder iron and use small strips cut from the plastic cap of a spray paint/carb cleaner can for solder. Does anyone have any experience repairing plastic fuel tanks? I thought I would ask before I start melting the seam. Oh, and yes I going to drain the remaining fuel and rinse and dry and test the vapor with a torch to make sure it is empty. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and have a nice day. Geo
#10
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts

1. Clean and rough up the plastic area that is cracked or damaged. Sand?
2. Dry area
3. Buy Power Poxy Plastic Bonder Pro Series #21801 Costs around $3.00
4. Follow instructions on package. 4 min set time.
www.powerpoxy.com
This expoxy is completely gasoline proof. Spoke to company and they will not advertise this product as gasoline proof because of liability involved.
2. Dry area
3. Buy Power Poxy Plastic Bonder Pro Series #21801 Costs around $3.00
4. Follow instructions on package. 4 min set time.
www.powerpoxy.com
This expoxy is completely gasoline proof. Spoke to company and they will not advertise this product as gasoline proof because of liability involved.
#12
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 13
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks puey61 - getting a free replacement
What is the model, type and code numbers of your engine? There is a standing recall of certain Briggs fuel tanks which were produced in the early 90's that Briggs will replace for free at any authorized dealer. Post back with your numbers and I'll check if you have the affected tank.
#13
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
What is the model, type and code numbers of your engine? There is a standing recall of certain Briggs fuel tanks which were produced in the early 90's that Briggs will replace for free at any authorized dealer. Post back with your numbers and I'll check if you have the affected tank.
Thanks.
#14
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 0
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
1. Clean and rough up the plastic area that is cracked or damaged. Sand?
2. Dry area
3. Buy Power Poxy Plastic Bonder Pro Series #21801 Costs around $3.00
4. Follow instructions on package. 4 min set time.
This expoxy is completely gasoline proof. Spoke to company and they will not advertise this product as gasoline proof because of liability involved.
2. Dry area
3. Buy Power Poxy Plastic Bonder Pro Series #21801 Costs around $3.00
4. Follow instructions on package. 4 min set time.
This expoxy is completely gasoline proof. Spoke to company and they will not advertise this product as gasoline proof because of liability involved.

UPDATE: I just saw this video on how to use "********" to structurally bond polyethylene and it looks like it might do the trick. Anyone else tried it?
Last edited by Shadeladie; 08-30-09 at 05:01 PM.
#15
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pacific
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I know this is a very old thread but I just "soldered" the crack in my leaky plastic gas tank on my B & S engine and I am so stoked!! I would never have thought of doing this on my own and would not have thought that plastic would flow like it did on this repair. I had used epoxy and abs adhesive with no success in the past. This time I melted the plastic into the crack and put a water hose into the tank and covered as much of the outlets as I could to put the tank under pressure. After around 5 attempts, I finally got enough melted plastic to fuse properly with the existing plastic and it stopped leaking!! Thanks to the OP, posters and DoItYourself.
#17
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pacific
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Geo, I intend to! I'm surprised at your quick response but possibly you are a frequent poster unlike myself.
Anyway, with this new-found knowledge about melting/fusing plastic, I intend to do a lot of modifications on the many plastic tool cases that I have. Up to now, I have been snipping/sawing at the innards of the cases to make my tools/accessories fit better but now I am going to try using my 250 watt soldering iron and making finesse modifications. The pencil soldering iron I used on the gas tank would probably not be big enough for this purpose.
Anyway, with this new-found knowledge about melting/fusing plastic, I intend to do a lot of modifications on the many plastic tool cases that I have. Up to now, I have been snipping/sawing at the innards of the cases to make my tools/accessories fit better but now I am going to try using my 250 watt soldering iron and making finesse modifications. The pencil soldering iron I used on the gas tank would probably not be big enough for this purpose.