8 hp briggs and stratton ignition switch

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  #1  
Old 08-03-06, 07:07 PM
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Question 8 hp briggs and stratton ignition switch

The push button ignition switch on my old snapper rider lawn mower went out. I went to Fleetfarm and bought a new switch. It is a two prong switch (same as the old one). I hooked the red wire from the battery to one prong and the black wire (from the starter) and the white wire (which goes someone in behind the starter) to the second prong.

Needless to say, I pushed the button and the switch started to smoke. I don't know what the white wire is for unless it goes to the magneto, whatever that is....should the white wire be conected to the other prong?

Anybody know how I should be hooking this thing up so I don't blow another switch up?

8 hp briggs and stratton, model 190707 2131 01 84101909

THX, JIM
 
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Old 08-03-06, 08:44 PM
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The white wire should be connected to the same side as the cable from the positive side of the battery. That's not your problem though. It sounds like you didn't get the right switch. You need a switch capable of handling the amperage required by the starter. Anything not heavy duty enough will burn up.
 
  #3  
Old 08-04-06, 04:08 PM
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Thanks for the advise cheese. I tried 35v (dc) switch today and it still burned up. I would deduct that means the starter is bad?
 
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Old 08-04-06, 08:20 PM
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The voltage rating doesn't mean much here. It's the amperage rating. You could use a switch rated for 400 volts and still burn it up if it can't handle much amperage. The switch should say something like 12-24 v/5 amp. You'll want one with a higher amp rating than that. Lots higher. An automotive parts store should have one, but probably not in the section with connectors and little switches. You want one made for starting engines, not turning on accessories. It should have heavy lugs coming out of it for the cables to attatch to instead of thin spade terminals.
 
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Old 08-04-06, 08:29 PM
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I got bigger problems than the switch. I figured out why it was burning up. I took the starter off, took it apart and cleaned it. While I was reinstalling it I notice the flywheel was not moving freely. I had to force the thing to turn, which it eventually did. I put it all back together and it started right up.

So....I had to take it for a spin. A couple laps around the yard and it killed on me again. Seems like it is seizing up for some reason. Guess I'm going to have to learn how to take it apart and fix whatever internal problem I have.

Thanks for the help. This is going to be a pain. Where is the best place to buy a shop manual for this engine?
 
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Old 08-04-06, 08:34 PM
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I believe autozone and advance auto parts stores carry a haynes manual that would cover your engine sufficiently. Is it full of oil? Usually that's the cause of engine siezure (low oil). Sounds like you go t a heavy enough switch now? Usually the switch is heavy enough to keep working even if the wires start smoking.
 
  #7  
Old 08-04-06, 08:51 PM
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I'm going to change the oil in the morning and see if that helps. The switch worked fine after I unseized it. I guess I'll experiment more after I head to autozone.

It's my son's mower, he's been using my Deere, so I'm trying to get it running before I don't have any blades left on the Deere.

Thanks again. I might be back with an occasional, "What the heck do I do NOW!!"
 
  #8  
Old 08-06-06, 07:35 PM
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OK...The oil was low. I changed the oil today. It started up and I let it run for 10 minutes. No problems.

I took it out and mowed some. About 15 minutes into the mow, I was in some heavy grass) the connector rod to the piston broke. (I know this cause I have since taken the engine apart.) Everything seems to be moving freely in there. I think I'll just buy a new connector but may there be another underlying cause that I'm not seeing or do those things break after some time? I'm sure I must have damaged it due to low oil and the seizing I was having.

JIM
 
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Old 08-06-06, 09:24 PM
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No they do not break over time..... and yes it was because you ran it low on oil..... I'd also take a peak at the bore to see how badly scar'd it is.....
One thing I like to stress, and do myself is check the oil every single time you go to start the engine cold and KEEP IT at the full level..... and change the oil every 25 hours. Did the rod hit the crankcase anywhere? If it did, you run the risk of cracks in the block.
 
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