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MTD riding mower won't start


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09-25-06, 07:55 AM   #1  
MTD riding mower won't start

I have MTD 14.5 hp riding mower that's about 8 years old.(1998 model) It seems to be compleatly dead, not a groan. I've replaced the battery and checked all conections, everything seems to be in order. Any advice on jumping circuits, safty switches or such to find the problem would be greatly appreciated. It was running two weeks ago when last used it and no blown fuses.


Last edited by ru4bama; 09-25-06 at 01:12 PM.
 
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09-25-06, 09:40 AM   #2  
Was it running up to the time you found it dead, or is this a new (to you) mower? If it had been running, I would look first for a blown fuse somewhere in the electrical system.

 
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09-26-06, 01:16 AM   #3  
Are you getting power to the smaller wire on the solenoid when you try to start it?


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09-26-06, 09:05 AM   #4  
no power

There appears to be no power on the orange/white wire from the solenoid. What would be the problem or what should be my next step. Thanks for your time, I appreciate it as do my neighbors.

 
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09-27-06, 05:42 AM   #5  
Azis
Without a model # really can not reference a schematic to verify wire colors, but if its the only small wire, (18awg the same cheese asked about) then it should go to your key switch. There should be battery voltage on that wire with the key in the start position. If not it could be any thing from the switch gone bad to bad connections still. Good place to check is the plug on the back of the key switch. Remove the plug and see if the terminals are coroded. If so you may be able to clean them up to fix the problem. You could verify the switch as the problem by using a similar small wire, jumping from the battery to the terminal on the solenoid. You need only briefly jump it and see if the starter attempts to engage. If so then the switch or connections are the problem.

 
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09-27-06, 06:45 AM   #6  
Sorry for the lack of info. The orange/white wire is the same one cheese refered to. The model # is 13am675go62 I'm going to try to jump it and see it anything happens.

 
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09-27-06, 07:03 AM   #7  
I jumped from the battery terminal to the terminal on the solenoid and the solenoid clicked and the starter did also. So you are saying it's in the switch.

 
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09-27-06, 07:43 AM   #8  
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That or the connection to it yes. If you remove the plug from the wire harness on the back of the switch, and see if two or more of the terminals are coroded. You may be able to clean the posts up and get it to work. If not then prolly just the switch. If you have a continuity tester you can actually test the switch itself. Most likely you will see two terminals coroded more than the others, I would start with those two and test for continuity with the key in the start position, then for open when the key is released. Sorry I dont know just which two, I usually just dive in and trial and error. As long as the harness is unpluged you have no voltage to beware of except from the continuity tester.

 
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09-27-06, 09:37 AM   #9  
replaced switch and cleaned the plug that goes on the back...still no juice

 
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09-27-06, 11:55 AM   #10  
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Does this mower have a PTO switch or manual lever? Are the blades in the engaged position?
If not check the plug for the key switch to see if you have voltage on any of the terminals. If you can verify the switch is good using a continuity tester or ohm meter, that would be good.

Also what are you using to test for voltage?

 
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09-27-06, 02:46 PM   #11  
When I said I replaced the switch I should have said with a new one. I assume it is good. The blades are fully raised and the safety switch on the lever and the clutch are depressed. I checked the plug on the back of the ign switch and one wire the red/white has power.

 
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09-27-06, 03:25 PM   #12  
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If you have power at the plug then I would still like to see the switch verified good before going any further. If the switch tests good and still no power at the solenoid, the wire to it must be short/open

 
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09-27-06, 03:32 PM   #13  
Radio shack volt meter, it does have an ohm setting. I'm not sure how to go about testing the switch. Are you talking about the wire from the solenoid? That wire goes to the safety switch on the blade lowering lever. Has the safety switch gone bad?

 
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09-27-06, 03:39 PM   #14  
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Radio shack or walmart bout ne place will have a cheap multi meter or even a test light to check continuity. Some look like a small scredriver with a bulb in the handle and a wire.
Where did you get the switch? They should test it for you.

 
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09-27-06, 03:42 PM   #15  
Bought it from a shop in the next town from where I live. What about the testing method, I can do that myself and won't have to wait another day.

 
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09-27-06, 03:42 PM   #16  
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If you do have a wiring problem you may be able to find it just by tracing out the wires and connectors.
Not sure if this applies to your mower or not but there was a recent thread I recall somin similar and I think it had a relay that had coroded the terminals on...

 
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09-27-06, 03:49 PM   #17  
The guy at the shop said something about sometimes on the switch the pos and neg will be backwards and you have to reverse the wires on the plug. Ever heard of such as that? Would I not get something with the switch in one position or another?

 
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09-27-06, 04:31 PM   #18  
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I suppose that is possible especially if the part is not genuine manufacture and perhaps an aftermarket that is meant to fit many models....
It can be done fairly easy with the proper tool, problem is finding the tool. Unless you are familiar with amp type plugs more chance of messing up the terminals than succeeding.

If you get your model and serial #, you can access the correct part # here http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp

 
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09-27-06, 09:18 PM   #19  
Hold on...don't go switching wires. In fact, the guy that sold you the switch sounds like he is ignorant. If you were to switch the positive wire to the wrong terminal on the switch, you would ruin the coil. If you switched it to the ground terminal, you could burn wires, fuses, and/or the switch. Look at the terminals on the back of each switch for markings like a B, M, G, L, and S. Make sure the markings match on both switches before going further.


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09-27-06, 10:02 PM   #20  
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Posted By: Azis
If you get your model and serial #, you can access the correct part # here http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp
I did mean the part # for the correct switch

 
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