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chainsaw sharpeners advice


happyhelper's Avatar
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09-29-06, 09:19 AM   #1  
chainsaw sharpeners advice

I have a large spruce tree I need to remove and I am looking for a good chainsaw sharpener that works well and easy to use. It seems like the electric ones will do a better job, but they might require more time spent moving from one blade to the next. I don't want to spend a lot of time sharpening blades. What's the best way to accomplish this?

 
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puey61's Avatar
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09-29-06, 11:56 AM   #2  
The old fashioned way. A logger's vise, a hammer (to drive in the logger's vise) and a hand file/guide. Or, use a professional bar-mount filing guide.

 
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09-29-06, 07:16 PM   #3  
Hello happyhelper,

Your comment "they might require more time spent moving from one blade to the next" makes it sound as if you believe automatic sharpeners will not require you sharpen each tooth individually.
Any electric tools for sharpening that I am familiar with require you to sharpen one at a time.

Puey is right that simple sharpening rigs are good.
Most pro woodcutters I see use exactly what he suggested.

I am like you though in not being a pro at woodcutting and although I can't speak for you, I am fairly lazy and always look for the easy way to do things.

I have had a 12 volt electric hand sharpener for several years and find it to be very quick.
Quick being about 10 to 15 minutes to do a fairly dull chain.
'Been cutting a lot of roots lately where I will spend most of the afternoon sharpening because of cutting so close to dirt and stones.

Keep in mind that if you do buy an electric sharpener there is a learning curve to adjusting it and getting the angles right.

Another option: If you have a good chain saw repair shop nearby you might be able ot get a deal on several chains and a better price on sharpening two or three at a time.


GregH.........HVAC/R Tech

 
happyhelper's Avatar
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09-30-06, 09:00 PM   #4  
Greg,
I'm aware that I must sharpen each tooth individually, I was just envisioning having to loosen a clamp of some sort, moving the chain, tightening the clamp, etc. between each one which seems like it would take forever.

I have a dremel with the chainsaw bit and can relate to the learning curve(and the lazy comment- guilty). I guess I just need to get used to the dremel. I can live with 10-15 minutes but I was hoping to cut it down to 5 or so.

I've also thought of making some kind of crude jig to help me make sure the angles are correct and consistent, but haven't figured out exactly how yet.

Thanks to you and Puey for the responses.

 
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10-01-06, 01:54 PM   #5  
It's been years since I've used a hand file/guide (we have 120V bench-mount units in my shop) but I know I could do it in problably 6-8 minutes and I know the quality of sharpening will be much better than using a dremel type tool. Happy, give my aforementioned tools a try and have the shop you buy them at give you a quick lesson. I think you'll really like the outcome and your chains will last much longer.

 
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10-02-06, 05:36 AM   #6  
Hello: happyhelper

As a professional (vocational) sharpener myself, what I cannot tell you is how to reduce time spent sharpening. Because there isn't any.

Each cutting tooth must be resharpened separately. Then the depth gages set correctly and equally. Each step done separately until chain is completely re-sharpened back to manufacturers specifications.

One solution to time savings may be to buy several chains and just change chains during the cutting process. Then sell the once used chains.

Another is to invest in a bench mount sharpener. Once all the chains are dull but the tree is cut down as desired, re sharpen all the chains and sell chains and sharpener on a web site like e-bay etc.

The money saved in labor costs and money re-cooped from selling used chain(s) and re sharpening machine will more then be worth having a professional tree trimmer do the job.

Unfortunately, why the rush to cut tree and/or hurry to re sharpen chains is not understood nor mentioned. Thus some guess work on the parts of those whom care to offer advice.

May be best to provide more details so the members and moderators can help further. Worth a try. The best of the best can be found right here.

Also, check out the related google ads, which appear upon the first visit to this page. Located between first and second posts. Also those to the right titled "Related Ads." Bound to find both helpful advice, information, as well as machinery needed....

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10-02-06, 10:05 PM   #7  
Sharp,
The only rush is that time is precious and I can't stand inefficiencies. I don't want to waste valuable daylight sitting in the garage filing when I could be cutting and making progress. The only days I have to work are Saturdays and whatever I don't get done, I have to wait a whole week before making any more progress. It drives me crazy. This may not be a very good reason, but it's the only one I have. When I start a project, I like to get in and get it done. I've been known to work 16 or 17 hours a day with minimal breaks to eat just to get something done.

I do have two chains already and I've thought about having a friend sharpen one while I'm dulling the other. Then just switch them out like you mentioned.

The professional quote was $750, they take the wood and leave the stump! I could buy several chains and the sharpener then throw it all in the trash and still come out ahead at that price. Not to mention there's probably 5 years worth of wood in that tree that I don't have to drive anywhere to cut or haul.

I'm leaning toward a bar mount file unit that Puey mentioned. They're only about $25 and I think he's right that they'll do a better job than the dremel. Certainly more consistent and probably just as fast.

Let me know if this helps any.

 
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10-04-06, 03:21 AM   #8  
To save your valuable time, I'd buy 4 or 5 more chains as this should be sufficient for your day full of work. You can then drop the dulled ones off at a saw shop for sharpening during the week and have them back in time for your weekend work.

 
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