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Kohler Command CV15 Won't Start


guano's Avatar
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10-02-06, 08:56 AM   #1  
Kohler Command CV15 Won't Start

I have a Simplicity Regent/Kohler Command CV15-S (Kohler reference #41590) purchased spring 2000.
About two years ago, I started having a similar problem as Bowe
(http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=215991) - dying out for no apparent reason - wait two minute and it ran fine. However, it finely became hard to start, cold Ė backfiring through the exhaust while trying to start.

So while trying to find the problem, I broke the cold choke lever. I took the carburetor (Walbro LMK) apart, cleaned it, replaced the choke plate and lever and it ran fine for 2 months.

However both of the above problems reoccurred and now it would completely flood out and not start, cold. I installed a fuel shut off valve and that work for a while. Once it started it ran fine (except for the occasional dying out). Then the shut off valve didnít do the trick any more and it would flood out every time I turned the valve on and tried to start it.

I replaced the carburetor with a new factory set carburetor including new solenoid. No luck still flooding, won't start. I replaced the fuel pump with a new fuel pump. I also replaced the spark plug. No luck wonít start.

I would replace the ignition module but I can see spark jumping the gap on the plug. Any suggestions?

tjf

 
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10-02-06, 11:27 PM   #2  
Strange. Have you checked the movement of the valves to be sure they're moving properly? This engine has hydraulic lifters, and maybe there's a problem there. How are you determining that it's flooding? Wet spark plug? Gassy smell from muffler while cranking?


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10-03-06, 06:19 AM   #3  
What weight of oil and what brand are you using? Generally, where do you live? For ambient temperature purposes.

 
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10-03-06, 06:52 AM   #4  
No, I haven't checked the valves. I wouldn't know how. Yes, I can smell the gas and I pulled the spark plug each time, sometimes several times, during the same starting session. The spark plug was wet and I could shake off excess gas into my hand.

When I replaced the fuel pump, the bottom of the gasket was wet. It smelled like gas. I suppose if gas was leaking into the crankcase it could be diluted and not pushing the valves smoothly.

I'll change the oil and see if that helps. I use Phillips 66 TropArtic 10-40 and I live in southeastern Wisconsin.

One thing , Since it hasn't stared in almost a month, I've been trying to start it with the air cleaner off. At first it almost seems like it wants to start almost running. Then it will either backfire through the exhaust and/or a flame shoots up through the carburator/air cleaner housing .
After that nothing, not even backfiring until I take the plug out, set the throttle to normal run so both choke plates are open, and let it sit a day or two with the gas shut off . That's what I'm waitng for now. I hoping the piston chamber was just so wet from the old carb or pump that it just needs to dry out.

I never checked for gas smell at the exhaust but the exhaust screen (spark arrestor) has been pushed out of the tail pipe and was balled up at the end of the pipe. I removed it, straigntened it, and will reinstall it.

Another thing, even though I see spark, it is possible that it isn't strong enough? We know (at least I believe) it's getting gas and air. If it'a getting spark, shouldn't it start and/or did all that backfiring change something?

tjf

 
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10-03-06, 07:28 AM   #5  
Azis
Check the shear key on the flywheel. Gas + spark + timing = ignition.

 
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10-03-06, 03:17 PM   #6  
Being a vertical shaft engine, it will be belt drive off of the crank and therefore would be unlikely to have a sheared flywheel key. I'd say although you have spark at the spark plug, it is insufficient. This would explain the backfire issue. An inline spark tester is the best method of checking for sufficient spark. If weak, it will be highly likely that the ignition coil is to blame. On another unrelated note (to the backfire), the oil you're using is not what you want to use and I'll bet this has an effect on the performance. Kohler says to use SAE10W30 for temperatures at or above 0 degrees F and SAE5W30 or 5W20 at or below 32 degrees F, with 5W30 the ideal choice. This engine has hydraulic valve lifters and if you use a straight 30W or heavier - which 10W40 is - the lifters won't pump up and provide the necessary clearance.

 
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10-04-06, 12:11 AM   #7  
Also try removing the dipstick and take a whiff of the oil in the engine. Does it smell like gas?


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10-04-06, 06:12 AM   #8  
Azis
Posted By: puey61 Being a vertical shaft engine, it will be belt drive off of the crank and therefore would be unlikely to have a sheared flywheel key.
It may be unlikely however hitting something with the mower is not the only way a key may shear, otherwise why have one?

 
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10-04-06, 10:21 AM   #9  
I'm sorry I miss-reported the oil . It isn't the Trop Artic 10-40, that 's what I put in my garden tiller. It's Texaco Havoline 10-30. I changed the oil yesterday and the old oil did smell like gas.

Thank you all very much.I appreciate all of your suggestions and tips. This machine has been problematic for two years, infuriating for the last two months and not running for the last month . this is Fall, the colors are changing and the leave about to dump on me. I can't wait and hope something I do fixes it and fail again or I' be raking 3/4 acre worth of leaves. I sent it to the professional. I 'm sure anyone of you could have resolved this had you been here, but I'm just a parts changer.

Thanks again, I'll let you know what happens and I'll be reading Outdoor Power Equipment & Small Engines (and other forums) almost daily -- you guys are great.

thanks again

tjf

 
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10-06-06, 12:15 AM   #10  
When you get it back, fill us in with the cure!


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10-24-06, 07:34 AM   #11  
Well here's the update. I got it back. The ignition coil was replaced and it started but only ran for five minutes.It just died and did not restart. Three hours later it started again and just stopped running after about three minutes -- would not restart. The next morning it started again, ran for five minutes and died. It went back to the repair shop.

The mechanic kept it another week and while I haven't tried it yet because of the rain we had, the mechanic said they had it running for hours with no problem.He said he found the stator was shorting out intermittantly and replace the stator. If this turns out it wasn't the problem I'll let you know. Thank again for your help.

tjf

 
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10-24-06, 08:48 AM   #12  
Azis
Great info thx much for the update. Best o luck!

 
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10-25-06, 12:38 AM   #13  
Well, I hope it's fixed. I'm not sure how/why they figured a bad stator could kill the engine though (with a good battery on the mower).


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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