Honda Engine Running Issue


Old 10-17-06, 09:24 AM
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Honda Engine Running Issue

I am attempting to revive a Honda ht-r3009 that was given to me. I have pulled all the panels/covers of and cleansed the machine well. The starter/engine initally did not turn over on their own due some rust build up on the flywheel and stater pinion gear. It now turns over fine, barely starts, but will not run.

I took apart the carb and cleaned it out, but it will still only putter as if its running out of time or is not getting fuel. Fuel is present in bowl and the engine doesn't respond very much to starting fluid.

I next performed the following things:
- Checked Compression, after 4-6 rotations it is approx. 115-120 psi.
- Spark is present and plug was replaced with new
- Carbeurator was removed and cleaned thruroughly. All jets appear to be clean and i let soak in carb cleaner for 4 days. Blew it out, assembled, and installed
- Removed flywheel and checked to ensure key was intact

It seems to run slightly better after all of this but still only putters on low throttle, doesn't respond to increased throttle, and only pops on choke.

I am not certain of the purpose for the bowl vent that is located on the frame near the card. I've plug in the hose from the carb to the vent, but there is no effect. Also, is there supposed to be a hose attached to the vent??? Not entirely sure of the purpose of this device.

Any ideas to what else i can do?

Adam Q.
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Old 10-17-06, 01:34 PM
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Have you verified that the throttle control actuates the throttle on the carb?
If it does verify that the butterfly in the carb moves also, it will be below the choke plate.
Old 10-18-06, 03:19 AM
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I belive the hose you're referring to is the crankcase breather hose. This may or may not attach to the air cleaner housing. I'm not well familiar with this model rear engine rider but it might be more helpful, for Cheese - who knows Honda's quite well, to have the engine ID numbers as opposed to the chassis numbers in order to help with your engine trouble.
Old 10-18-06, 04:10 AM
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I was 99% positive that the choke and throttle plates operated correctly, but i just wanted to confirm and indeed they do. Control set to choke: Choke plate fully closed, throttle fully open
Control set to run: Choke plate fully open, throttle variable

I can get you the engine model numbers tomorrow or later tonight.

Is there a rubber washer for the carb bowl bolt? I'm wondering if the bolt is protruding too far when assembled and is partially blocking the fuel hole.

I'm really leaning torward a fuel issue. When on choke i cannot get the engine to flood. This is either caused by blockage of the jets or inadequate vacuum pressure. When on choke the engine continue to pop, regardless if it had been on puttering away for a min or two. It will not start on choke but will always pop. this should mean that there is not enough fuel to cause a flood, right? Eventhough the compression was tested at 115-125 psi this was after about 4+ revs. Should there be full compression after two revs? It seems too easy to turn the engine over by hand. I make my comparison to a hand pull leaf blower which seems much more diffcult and will actually kick back on occassion.
Old 10-18-06, 07:17 AM
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Engine should be GXV270
Compresion tests can be invalid and certainly misleading on most small engines. Briggs and Tecumseh manuals I have seen state to test by turning the engine in reverse by hand until resistance is felt, then release and the engine should have enough compresion to "rebound" slightly. I don't think if you had compresion issues that it would sit and idle as you describe (My understanding from your first post is it will run at idle now?)

Is there any change at all when the throttle is advanced? Was any of the govenor linkage removed?
Old 10-18-06, 08:40 AM
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It idles but not very well and seems to be mis-firing. As soon as the throttle is advanced even slightly the engine stalls. Linkages for the choke and throttle were removed when i removed the carb. I'm not sure what acts as the govenor besides the throttle platic restricted by a black plastic screw.
Old 10-18-06, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Amonquag
It idles but not very well and seems to be mis-firing. As soon as the throttle is advanced even slightly the engine stalls.
That does help...
It could be that there is still a restriction in the carb in the main circuit. If the carb was in any way the same condition as the flywheel and ring gear, or if there are any non-metalic parts in the carb that soaked in cleaner for 4 days, it may require replacement of the carb.
The owners manual I posted a link to should have a section on govenor adjustment. Might be benneficial to at least check it out.
Old 10-18-06, 12:45 PM
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I'd hate to act like "the newbie" here, but; where did you post the owner's manual? "Potential sources for manuals and or replacement parts: DYI'S Small Engine Parts, Supplies, Tools & Accessories Center:" I'm not sure if you were referring to this url.
Old 10-18-06, 12:49 PM
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My apologies I guess I didn't in this thread...

Old 10-19-06, 01:17 AM
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I *think* the tube you're referring to is the bowl vent, which should just drop off the carb and vent to atmosphere.

I think, by your description, I would pull the valve cover and have a look at the valve clearances. You may have too tight or loose clearances, or possibly a broken rocker arm. I think it's just one 10mm bolt holding the cover on.
Old 10-19-06, 09:20 AM
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I forgot to grab the serial numbers.

I would assume the larger tube heading into the intake would be the ccv. I agree the other would be the bowl vent.

I know i previously found a free owners manual somewhere online. I will try to relocate and read up on the govenor.

I will also pop the valve cover and take a look see.

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