Turf Power lawn mower problems...

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  #1  
Old 11-02-06, 04:25 PM
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Turf Power lawn mower problems...

I think I just bought a lemon...

First of all, the battery does not hold a charge even though I just put a new battery in. I had this problem with another lawn mower and fixed it by plugging in a loose safety switch. But all the switches appear to be plugged in.

Problem two:
The engine (Briggs/stratton 12hp I/C) starts rather hard, blowing gas and white smoke out the carburetor. But it does start. While running, the muffler pops frequently and at night I can see fire along with pops in the muffler.

Problem three:
The starter switch will start the engine, but it will not shut the engine off. Bad switch or solenoid?
Currently, to turn off the engine, I have to throttle all the way down and choke it.

I've replaced the spark plug and fuel filter.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-02-06, 05:50 PM
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Sounds like the carburetor is set too rich or may be flooding. Check the kill switch lead and make sure it is hooked up at the Ignition module, or it could be a bad ground to the switch or the switch itself. The solenoid only operates the starter so it would not affect how the engine is shut down.

What brand and model of equipment is this on.
 
  #3  
Old 11-03-06, 03:17 AM
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This is a product sold through Agway stores made by MTD. Sounds like someone has gotten their hands on this prior to you owning it and messed with some wiring. As for the battery not charging you will find a single red wire running from the regulator/rectifier that must end up either at the positive post of the battery or may first go to the ignition switch and then to either the battery side of the solenoid or directly to the battery. As for not being able to kill the engine, you will find a single black wire from under the flywheel and this will likely go first to a junction block on the engine near the governor control bracket and then to the ignition switch or it may go directly to the switch and must end up at the terminal labeled "G" on the switch. The carburetor is most likely in need of soaking and reconditioning with a OE rebuild kit.
 
  #4  
Old 11-03-06, 04:16 PM
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I took off all the engine casing and sure enough I found a disattached wire that plugs into the coil. However, the key switch still does not shut the engine off. Are all key switches the same? I have another mower with a good key switch that I could try.

The person who had this mower before had always put 10w-30 oil in. Is this the right kind? I've always used SAE 30 in my lawn mowers.

I took the head off and cleaned off the carbon build-up. The head gasket is in condition.

I took off all the parts to the air filter; when I turn the flywheel, I can see gas blow out the carb. When I try to start it, white smoke comes out the carb and muffler.
 
  #5  
Old 11-03-06, 05:17 PM
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No, all key switches are not the same, and if you put the wrong one in you run the risk of sending 12 volts to your ignition module and that would ruin it.

If you have an ohm meter or a continuity tester you can check your switch. Like puey said the kill switch should be hooked up to the terminal marked with a "G" on your switch. Test this terminal with the switch in the off position, you should have continuity to ground or the metal case of the switch. Make sure the switch has a ground to the engine block as well.

If your engine is an OHV model I would check the valve clearance, as incorrect setting could be the cause of some blow back through your carburetor.

I always recommend 30 wt oil, a multi-grade oil is alright if you are in a cold enviroment, but I would only use it if I were running it in the cold, your oil consumption will increase with a multi-weight vs a single weight oil. So if using 10W30, keep an eye on the oil level and add as needed.
 
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Old 11-03-06, 05:28 PM
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Problem #1
Don't know..

Problem #2
Intake valve problem, or cracked block near the valve..

Problem #3
Switch needs to short the ignition to ground..
 
  #7  
Old 11-04-06, 09:00 AM
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The block does not appear to be cracked. (It is not an OHV model)

I've noticed gas/oil leaking out around the carburetor bowl.
When I took off the bowl to clean it, a big mess of rust/dirt came out; I was surprised the engine even ran with that mess!
Cleaning it didn't make any difference though...

Maby if I replace the carb with this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&item=250044630626&ih=015&category=50371&rd=1
 
  #8  
Old 11-06-06, 01:34 AM
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A good cleaning in a bath type carb cleaner, a new needle and possibly a float should solve the carb problem.
 
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