Chain Saw Won't Start

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  #1  
Old 11-07-06, 09:05 AM
Yukon Youngun's Avatar
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Chain Saw Won't Start

I bought a Craftsman chain saw a couple seasons ago to trim some oversized logs to fit my new wood stove and have used it only a few times until the last few weeks. It seemed to work fine before, but now tends to be hard to start and sometimes only will run for a few seconds, or will die as soon as I squeeze the throttle. There are times, however, that it runs just fine.

This past weekend I had it going for some time and stopped to refuel. I could not get it started again. I realized that the last time the problem occurred it was also at refueling.

I recently took it to a local shop where they replaced the fuel line saying it was broken up in the tank. I am working with brand new fuel.

Are there any other simple things to check when I pull it out again tomorrow?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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  #2  
Old 11-07-06, 05:50 PM
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The fact that it is intermittent makes it difficult to diagnose but it seems you would have a fuel starvation issue requiring a reconditioning of the carburetor using an OE kit and any necessary mounting gaskets. Before you go to that extent though, check for any carb fuel adjustment screws and open them up a quarter turn, if possible.
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-06, 10:02 PM
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Yukon, Puey is right on target! We often have 2 cycles that will absolutely not crank nor run properly with absolutely nothing wrong EXCEPT the low and high needles are not adjusted PRECISELY correct. It can be maddening to set them but when you get it right you'll be real happy with the unit. TIP: If you do what Puey say's and it doesn't work correctly try this: Turn both needle valves on the carb to the right until they LIGHTLY seat.(DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN) Then turn them both out 1 1/2 turns. All engines will usually crank at this point but you may have to play with the throttle to keep it running. Let it warm up then turn the low valve with the (L) stamped beside it to the RIGHT until the engine starts to run rough. Turn it back to the LEFT until it starts running rough. Then set this needle to the middle point between them. NOW set the high valve with the (H) stamped on it. Give the engine full throttle and do the same as above. Turn to the Right until it falls off and back to the Left until it falls off. Set it to the mid point. You can then turn it slightly to the RIGHT and you'll get higher RPM's but be careful because you are leaning it out and it is getting less oil. The engine will fail if you leave it like this so be careful to turn the valve back to the left a quarter turn or so from it's best running point. Unfortunately many of the units sold through the big BOX stores are not built to last and they will score themselves easily. I always recommend using a bit more oil in your gas than most manufacturers recommend and remember seeing smoke out the exhaust is a good thing!. IF THIS DOESN'T CORRECT YOUR PROBLEM please post your units model information and we can better help you. I suspect you have a dab of microscopic junk in your carb and you'll probably have to rebuild the carb (Not all that hard) But resetting your high and low needles is definately your BEST first step. ALSO if your carb only has one needle valve then do both of the above procedures on it starting with the (L) procedure above. Good luck, Ron
 
  #4  
Old 11-13-06, 06:24 PM
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I haven't been able to do all you suggested, but I want to thank you for your help. I also want to tell you that I spent most of my Saturday disassembling and reassembling the major parts of this saw. I did pull the carb, but did not attempt to disassemble it at this time or make any of the adjustments you suggested.

However, it did start quite readily and ran for about 20 minutes so I could get some of my wood cut up, until it ran out of fuel. I refilled with fuel and chain oil and could not get it to start, or even catch, again. Not even a sputter for the next couple hours, off and on.

I'm on the road right now, but I plan to try the carb adjustments on the weekend unless you have any further insights. Thanks again for your help.
 
  #5  
Old 11-14-06, 03:21 AM
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Yukon, Thanks for compliment! Everybody, almost without exception, on this forum is as nice as they can be and are willing to help if they can! I guess I'm not the best on this issue because I do most of my work rehabing 2 cycles to give to the elderly. Because of that I typically resolve the type problem you have by correcting everything I think COULD be at fault. I have a lot of extra parts so most often the cost of a part is not an issue. With that in mind let me offer this: I still think you have a carburetor issue as discussed in the last post and hopefully can be corrected with simple adjustment! Hopefully, at worst a rebuild of the carb with a $10 (S.E. USA cost) or so carb kit will resolve your issue.. Now, I would also look closely at the coil. They SELDOM fail or at least I seldom have to replace one but the fact is "It's possible". They are sealed but they remain the same as always 'Wrapped copper wire'. Sometimes a wire, for whatever reason will break. When you first start the engine the two ends are making contact but after use, when it heats up the wire may pull apart slightly breaking the circuit and killing the engine. It cools and it will crank again. If your carb isn't at fault then this is a possibility. Again, it's a long shot but needs to be considered! I would also check your gap between this coil and the flywheel FIRST. Flywheels can and are often NOT perfectly round. The gap may be correct over the magnets but be TOO close 180 degrees on the other side. The engine warms up, expands slightly, and the coil is touching the flywheel on each revolution. So, Carb settings first, Flywheel gap second and then you have to start rebuilding and/or replacing parts. A raw wire somewhere is always a possibility but you are experiencing the problem ONLY after it gets warm so this is a lot less likely? Hope your travel is successful and your weekend repair goes even better. Thanks again, Ron.
 
  #6  
Old 11-24-06, 07:50 PM
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Please ignore, I started a new thread.
 

Last edited by DIYNovice; 11-25-06 at 11:51 AM.
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