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Mac 3216 won't warm start


DIYNovice's Avatar
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11-25-06, 12:00 PM   #1  
Mac 3216 won't warm start

It cold starts on the third pull just fine. It will warm start on the first pull if restarted less than 5 minutes after it was turned off. If I wait much longer, it refuses to start until 30-45 minutes later. Then, it will usually start on the second pull without priming but choke half open. After about 90 minutes being off, the cold start procedure must be followed. It used to work better with a new spark plug, but I now have to follow these "rules" no matter how old the spark plug is and regardless of any other maintanence.

Also, it will sometimes quit a few minutes into a cold start when the saw is tilted and I don't press the throttle when it starts to bog down. But after a few minutes running this problem goes away.

Any ideas what I can try? Thanks in advance

 
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11-25-06, 06:17 PM   #2  
After reading through previous posts I decided to replace the spark arrestor. The muffler has never been removed, and the screws had to be drilled out. (New arrestor and screws yet to be bought) I am posting a picture of the muffler port. The soot on the walls feels like sandpaper and won't come off. Also there are numerous scratches on the piston. Is there any hope?

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/bleech2/exhaustport.jpg

 
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11-25-06, 07:28 PM   #3  
Take a keen tip screwdriver or some thing small,see if you can "feel" the scratches.But looks to me that you might get by with the scratches on the piston.The way burned oil has dis-colored the pistin pin,looks to me that you need a set of rings.
But thats only my openion.Someone else mite have another.

 
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11-25-06, 09:06 PM   #4  
Many people would continue using their unit and not go to the trouble of repair...I commend your effort!

The symptoms you describe are more likely the carburetor than anything else except for the muffler. It can be a "Fool-er" and If it is clogged, air can't move properly. There are several ways to clean the muffler & aerators and that is ALWAYS the first thing I do after checking for spark and compression.

The compression test will tell you if those scratches are a real problem. IF you have 45 ponds compression, there is a chance it will start, the higher the compression the better your chances!

Scratches are never good and will only get worse. Be very careful rubbing the piston with anything besides your finger tips. Repair guy is good but if you use a screwdriver like he suggested be very, very careful to do it very, very lightly...you can make things worse real easy!

SO, clean the muffler, rebuild the carb and if you have enough compression it will crank. (You might just readjust the carb and it will crank but I recommend a new kit, elbow grease and rebuild it for best long term results).

Hope this helps a little, Ron

 
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11-26-06, 07:00 AM   #5  
Thanks for the replies! I went over the piston scratches lightly with an awl and could not feel them. They are actually very hard to see when not accentuated by the camera flash.

I decided to take the saw apart because I'm now having cold starting problems and pretty much assumed I have to at least rebuild the carb (The Zama RB-39 kit is on order). The warm starting problems have been occurring the past 3 or 4 years, and I have learned to work around it. Since I'm putting it out of commission to rebuild the carb, might as well try addressing this problem too. But keeping in mind that I only paid $98 for this thing in the first place 8 years ago, I'm keeping my expectations tempered. Of course, it would be great if all these problems would be solved with a carb rebuild!

In reference to the muffler, what do you define as "dirty"? Mine was covered in baked-on soot (some of it starting to peel), but very little in the way of loose material. The spark arrestor screen also appeared unclogged, but with a light layer of soot.

I'm also having a hard time finding replacement parts on the internet, and I think some or all of them may be discontinued:

Fuel Filter: 300869

Spark Arrestor Screen: 301098-33

Air Filter: 300990-58

I plan on visiting local stores next week to find the parts I need, but any help with cross references, etc in advance would be greatly appreciated!

 
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11-26-06, 01:20 PM   #6  
As far as the carb. rebuild kit goes any small engine repair shop has them.But the rest of the parts.......GOOD LUCK McCulloch went out of business years ago.There has been people pick up their parts line in the past.But buying parts now is like pulling hens teeth.
You mite do better in trying to find someone that has a McCulloch 3216 that you can buy just for parts,on Ebay maybe,or a neighbor.If you want to go through all that trouble.But if it was me I'd just buy a new saw.

Husqvarna and Stihl or Shindaiwa are the top brands to buy if your going use them for comercal use.But their pricie.

If your gona use them just for small trees and stuff around the house from time to time, it's Craftsman.

 
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11-26-06, 04:19 PM   #7  
MTD acquired McCulloch and some parts are still available for your saw. However the internal components for the 32cc has all been superseded to the 38cc model, which would require an upgrade to the 38cc short block and that costs more then a new saw.

It would be best to try going through the carburetor and seeing if that takes care of your problem.

 
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11-27-06, 02:44 PM   #8  
I wasn't able to find the Mac parts, but found a similarly sized air filter and fuel filter. But I'm stuck with the old Spark arrestor. How can I go about cleaning the carbon off of it? Thanks again!

 
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11-27-06, 03:32 PM   #9  
Take a propane torch, with a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the screen, torch it until it is cherry red. Let it cool down and take a small wire brush and brush it off or you can blow it out with compressed air while its still warm and that will work also. Some people take them out all together, but they are required by some states, on all federal property and emission regulations.

 
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11-28-06, 02:15 AM   #10  
30yeartech is offering you the best way to clean the arrestor that is allowed on this forum. You really should clean the entire muffler and since the best way to do it can be dangerous if not done correctly I've been banned from telling you by the forum moderator. (I'm not complaining! This is still the best forum on the net) If you would like to contact me directly with a private message I'll be glad to tell you how to do it "Safely" but efficiently. It will also allow you to skip the arrestor cleaning process with the torch because it can be difficult to get to the arrestor on many mufflers?

Many fuel filters are interchangeable...almost all of them with minor modifications? So never despair if you can't find a specific brand filter!

I haven't purchased an air filter in years! Go to your local fabric store. You'll find all the air filter material you can tote out the door for about the same price as you give for one filter with a brand name on it! (Just remember to ask for cushion material, not air filter material! Ha! The color is even the same or it will be a cream color but the material is identical!!)) A pair of sharp scissors and you can fashion a filter exactly the size you need for any use. The only differences are 1) It's not as pretty 2) It only cost 1/100 the price!

 
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11-28-06, 06:35 AM   #11  
Azis
Posted By: Bigwind I haven't purchased an air filter in years! Go to your local fabric store. You'll find all the air filter material you can tote out the door for about the same price as you give for one filter with a brand name on it! (Just remember to ask for cushion material, not air filter material! Ha! The color is even the same or it will be a cream color but the material is identical!!)) A pair of sharp scissors and you can fashion a filter exactly the size you need for any use. The only differences are 1) It's not as pretty 2) It only cost 1/100 the price!
Agreed this may be better than running NO filter at all, however I would not recomend it and do not consider it good maintenance practice. While the material may look feel and even taste the same, there is no way to ensure it is acceptable for this application. Air filters are designed to keep foreign matter from entering the engine while allowing enough air flow for proper operation. This may also affect airflow to the point that the carb can not be adjusted for the proper fuel/air mixture (carbs with adjustments) and for carbs without mixture adjustments. Also there is no way to know what affect petroleum products will have on it.
OEM or even aftermarket filters are IMO, a very small and sound investment in your power equipment and peace of mind.

 
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11-30-06, 07:12 AM   #12  
I found a new carb on Ebay for $25 and decided to go with that instead of a rebuild. The muffler has been cleaned. I put everything back together and can't get it to run more than 5 seconds with a constant billow of white smoke. I fiddled with the H/L/I screws with no effect. In a previous thread it was suggested to put 10 drops of 2 cycle oil in the spark plug hole to test compression. This didn't have any noticeable effect on how well or long the engine ran. The only variable left I could think of is the gasket that goes between the engine and the carb.A replacement wasn't included with either the new carb or the rebuild kit. So I made one out of cork sheet. But even this did not have any effect on starting the engine. All the gas lines appear to be free flowing. I'm about ready to throw in the towel, any last suggestions?

 
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