Need shop specs

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  #1  
Old 03-02-07, 11:12 AM
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Question Need shop specs

Have a Toro #521 Snowblower (about 20 years old---model 38052, S/N 7011447)
Engine Surges under no-load conditions, but OK under load except for some mild exhaust detonation.
Have rebuilt the carburetor, replaced fuel line, sparkplug, changed oil and reset carburetor jets to factory specs.
I've recently acquired this machine from a deceased uncle's estate. He was a stickler about maintaining and servicing all his "toys", so in spite of its age, is in very good condition except for the surging problem. One of his neighbors frequently borrowed the snowblower and tinkered with it. You know the type---get out the screwdrivers and make all the adjustments you can all at once. Aside from the carb needing rebuild, I'm beginning to suspect that this yahoo neighbor could have messed with the governor. Being the careful type, I don't want to get into the governor settings without some factory spec. re: linkage position, etc.
Looking for a free bit of info. from the Toro or Tecumseh (model #HSSK-67259) factory service manual.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
 

Last edited by spider43; 03-03-07 at 07:40 AM. Reason: Delete
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  #2  
Old 03-02-07, 11:42 AM
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You can usually tell what hole the governor linkage was in by the worn paint within the hole, so you might look at this to see if the linkage really has been moved.

The other thought is surging is a classic symptom of a little too lean on the fuel/air mixture. You say you've reset the carburetor needles to spec., but that's just a starting point. Carbs really need to be adjusted in when running under laod to get things set right, IMO. To me it sounds like you might just need a little carb adjustemnt.
 
  #3  
Old 03-02-07, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by formula View Post
You can usually tell what hole the governor linkage was in by the worn paint within the hole, so you might look at this to see if the linkage really has been moved.

The other thought is surging is a classic symptom of a little too lean on the fuel/air mixture. You say you've reset the carburetor needles to spec., but that's just a starting point. Carbs really need to be adjusted in when running under laod to get things set right, IMO. To me it sounds like you might just need a little carb adjustemnt.
Thanks for your prompt response!
I didn't want to go into every detail, but, yes, I've "tuned" the carb jets for best performance and still have the problem. I've done a LOT of rebuilds, tuning, etc. of small bore engines, both 2 and 4 stroke and I understand that the factory specs are just a starting point. The old "worn paint" scheme normally works, but most of the paint on the governor linkage has worn off and no one hole in the linkage is worn appreicably more than others.
Again, all I'm looking for is a source for a little freebie factory info.---I know how to adjust the carb, but would like to know how to properly set the governor before proceeding into other areas---valves, intake leaks, etc. if needed.
It may be that the engine has just enough wear to the point where it will perform as it is running now and no better. That's why I need to back to square one and make sure my uncle's goofy neighbor didn't screw things up.
Thanks again for your help.
 
  #4  
Old 03-02-07, 03:08 PM
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Spider maybe the info you need is here, you can download it for future ref. Have a nice one. Geo

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-07, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by geogrubb View Post
Spider maybe the info you need is here, you can download it for future ref. Have a nice one. Geo

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
GEOGRUBB:

Thanks for the link! This is exactly what I was searching for!

Ron
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-07, 11:54 AM
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Assuming you set the governor pre-load, how does the engine run now?
 
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