Gilson Riding Mower Briggs & Stratton 282707 0026 01 9507264D

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  #41  
Old 04-06-07, 08:32 PM
Azis
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I agree and thought it had been replaced...
 
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  #42  
Old 04-06-07, 08:35 PM
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switch was replaced with one exactly like the old broken down rusty one that was on the machine when it came out of the barn: 5 prongs: G,B,L,M & S
 
  #43  
Old 04-06-07, 08:48 PM
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Ok, I didn't see where the switch was traded for the correct style. Sorry...just wanted to be sure you had the right thing for the mower.

The melted wire to the coil is melted because of what I expected earlier...voltage was applied to the coil. Don't allow that to happen on the new coil if it hasn't already...or the new coil will be toast too. I suggest performing all the wiring with the coil kill wire disconnected from the coil until the whole job is done. Then you can test for voltage on that wire in all key positions. If there is no voltage present on that wire in any circumstance, then it can be connected to the coil.

The G prong should be connected to the frame or negative battery terminal.
The B should be connected to the wire with the fuse in it coming off the positive side of the battery.
The L is lights and can be used to power a carb solenoid on some configurations.
The M should be connected to the wire going to the coil.
The S should be a wire that plugs onto the starter solenoid.
 
  #44  
Old 04-06-07, 09:15 PM
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Aha, that is a little different than what Western Auto told me to do.

Here's what Western Auto said:
G: to wire going to coil
B: with fuse to positive on battery
L: Not needed
M: to wire going to coil
S: to solenoid

So do you think the new coil is fried?
 
  #45  
Old 04-06-07, 10:11 PM
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There's no telling...you'll have to check for spark. With the coil kill wire unplugged, and the spark plug touching metal on the engine, check for spark. If you have a good plug, the air gap is correct on the coil, and you still have no spark, then the coil is bad. The coil needs to be .010" from the magnets on the flywheel.
 
  #46  
Old 04-07-07, 04:36 PM
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I now have spark but it won't start. I get little puffs of smoke from muffler.
 
  #47  
Old 04-07-07, 07:19 PM
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This mower did run and mow right?
What color is the smoke?
Does the engine spin over fast?

Try a few drops of fresh fuel in the carb.
 
  #48  
Old 04-07-07, 07:27 PM
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Yes, mower did run and mow.
Smoke is almost invisible, sort of whitish.

Tried the fuel in carb -no dice.

It seems to me it isn't spinning fast enough to get it started. Once or twice it almost sounded like it wanted to start but then it started sounding like I was killing the battery.

I charged the battery up to full charge with my Dad's Black & Decker 12v charger, still no dice.
 
  #49  
Old 04-08-07, 05:27 AM
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Ok it only takes a few things to make an engine run, fuel/air, spark, compression and timing.
If it did run recently, compression should be good enough.
Timing is the shear key.
Fuel is adding gas in the carb.
Spark is the spark plug.
Your going to have to find the missing ingredient.
Did you try to start it with the kill wire disconnected?
 
  #50  
Old 04-08-07, 07:15 AM
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yes, the kill wire was disconnected.

Dad said something about adjusting the spark plug. do you have any advice on that?

i do have an oil leak, would that affect starting?
 
  #51  
Old 04-08-07, 05:11 PM
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ride-on

alright cam
im adam from the uk i fix mowers for a living although im the first to admit im no expert on ride-on mowers.
the age of the engine is in the code for the engine so yours i think you said is code 9507264d (the other 2 are model and type) the 95 is year engine was made(1995) the 07 the month (july) and 26 is the day in july. (the 4d i think is what line it was made on) so your engine was made on the 26th of july 1995 and the body bit should be around the same time.

most ride ons come to us with electrical problems (and most of the time its one of the safety switches)the seat ,cut engage, and brake have one.

if you still need wiring diagram i have access to briggs dealer/repairer web site that go into things deeper than normal and could maybe send you some stuff.

hope this helps adam
 
  #52  
Old 04-08-07, 06:41 PM
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Wire the switch as follows:

L-- Do not use

S-- To starter solenoid

M-- To kill switch

G-- To frame

B-- To positive post of battery
The wire from coil goes to otherside of kill switch.
Also make sure solenoid is grounded to frame ( If starter turns over engine it is )
 

Last edited by tommyj3; 04-09-07 at 10:50 AM.
  #53  
Old 04-08-07, 07:02 PM
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The correct sparkplug is:

Briggs and Stratton plug # 802592
Champion plug # RJ19LM

Gap either plug to 0.030 in

If engine is on full mark on dip stick all is fine, the leak will not keep it from starting.
 
  #54  
Old 04-08-07, 07:40 PM
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Tommy3,

That's how the wires are hooked up, except the kill wire and the wire from the coil is not hooked up yet. I was told to wait until I get it started and make sure there is no voltage coming through the kill wire in all key positions and if none, then it would be ok to hook them up.

Oil is within range on dipstick.

I have the correct plug and I'll see about the gap tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
  #55  
Old 04-08-07, 09:01 PM
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You want M connected to the coil kill wire, not the alternator. You can check the coil wire (M position on the switch) now for voltage in all switch positions. If there is none, it can be connected so that you can turn off the engine once it starts.
 
  #56  
Old 04-08-07, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CamilleMuir View Post
Tommy3,

That's how the wires are hooked up, except the kill wire and the wire from the coil is not hooked up yet. I was told to wait until I get it started and make sure there is no voltage coming through the kill wire in all key positions and if none, then it would be ok to hook them up.

Thanks!
Thats not the same as was described before.
Use a volt meter and leave the wire disconnected from the coil. With the key in the off position check for DC volts from the wire to ground. There should be none. Check for continuity or ohms the same way. It should show 0 ohms. Then check again with the key in the on position. You should again show no volts but now show infinity or open.

At any rate if the wire is not connected to the coil then it should have no affect on the coil firing the spark plug, as long as the air gap is set and the coil is good, this includes the High tension lead and its connection to the spark plug. You mentioned a boot on the spark plug wire, make sure the connection to the spark plug is as it should be and that the metal lead is not stuck back in the boot or such....
Gap the plug as mentioned.

Do you know how the thing was shut off last? Did it die, or was it shut down?
If you have spark and fuel and the engine is timed, you should have boom boom.
Might talk to your new buddies at western auto about a leak back test, or think about verifying valves and such if all the above is true.
 
  #57  
Old 04-09-07, 06:13 AM
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Azis,
You are so right! I must have been half asleep when I replied to Tommy3. Sorry.

The wires are hooked up this way:
L: Not hooked up (reserved for lights)
M: to wire going to coil (not yet connected)
S: to solenoid
G: to ground on battery
. .(2nd black wire from G to frame)
B: with fuse to positive on battery
. .(2nd red wire from B to red "alternator" wire coming from between starter & motor)

The spark plug connection is good. The metal dealie clicks on to the plug just fine.

I'll gap the plug to 0.030 today after work.

Quote AZIS: Do you know how the thing was shut off last? Did it die, or was it shut down?
I think it died, I really can't remember. I know I cleaned enough grass and sticks off the top of the deck for it to have jammed up the belt/pulleys but they weren't jammed, they move just fine by hand.
 
  #58  
Old 04-09-07, 10:53 AM
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Sorry about the post on key switch ( been edited ) must of had my head stuck where to light don,t shine last night or 1 to many cool beverages.
 
  #59  
Old 04-09-07, 11:32 AM
Azis
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10-4 on the cool beverage
Actually I was looking at one of my old murray's with a 14hp briggs intek, and it is wired as you said. It has a stop switch bracket mounted beside the engine behind the carb tho too. I didn't check it out much further.
I can't find a wiring diagram so I am still gonna go with cheese on that part.
 
  #60  
Old 04-09-07, 05:46 PM
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I know what you mean. Just replaced a motor on a Murray not long ago and it was wired as I said. I when back and looked at a briggs wiring diagram and it shows exactly as Cheese says.

Here's diagrams:

http://www.tulsaenginewarehouse.com/drawings/allwiring.pdf

Switches start on page 7
 
  #61  
Old 04-11-07, 04:54 PM
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plug gapped properly
getting spark from plug

still no start
 
  #62  
Old 04-12-07, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CamilleMuir View Post
plug gapped properly
getting spark from plug

still no start
Then if you get gas to the cylinder it should fire. You can try a few drops in the spark plug hole. If it doesnt try to start then, afraid somin may have happened internally.
 
  #63  
Old 04-12-07, 07:33 AM
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It may be flooded from trying to start it so many times.
 
  #64  
Old 05-03-07, 06:19 PM
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Gilson Lawn Tractor

Good luck trying to find anything in the way of information on this mower. I own the same tractor, and I've been searching for the past 7 years, with no luck.
I purchased mine used (...obviously...), and like you, am mowing about an acre of lawn. I purchased mine from an "old-timer" lawn mower/outdoor equipment shop, and the gent said that these were the hottest selling tractors in the late 70's, and early 80's. He also said that he could sell a million of them, if they were still being built. Strong, and reliable...with regular maintainence. He also said that they sold for around $2000 new (quite a bit at that time...but justified...).
They were originally built by the Gilson Brothers Tractor, and Farm Equipment Company, who did in fact build full sized farm tractors. These lawn tractors were just a minor side product for them. Gilson was then sold to Toro, then when Toro purchased the Lawn Boy line of garden equipment, they killed the Gilson name.
Trying to find original replacement parts for this machine will be next to impossible...some generic parts do fit.
In their "hey-day" they were top notch, heavy duty machines that would last forever-with a bit of TLC.
As for wiring diagrams...not gonna happen. If it won't start, it's the engine, and not the tractor itself. Generic diagrams may help, but if not, any qualified small engine mechanic can do the trick.
Give the whole tractor a good spray-down with something like WD-40 (except for the drive belts) in the spring, and fall, change the engine oil, spark plug, and air filter regularly, keep the blades sharp, and you'll be passing this tractor down to your grandchildren, as I plan to do.
 
  #65  
Old 05-03-07, 06:51 PM
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Barrie Boy,

Thanks for the information! I'd love to get it going again. I'm still tinkering with my Gilson, but no luck yet. Dad had me take the valves off and clean them -one of them was kind of gunky, but he said not bad enough to cause my no start problem. I will put it back together this weekend and give it another shot. I got the wiring right from Cheese's instructions. I've got fuel in the carb, air filter is new, spark from the plug and the sheer key (is that what it's called?) is intact. Dad doesn't know what else to try. We did take a look at the cylinder and it's scarred up but Dad says he's not sure if that's the reason it won't start. He said he thought it must have been that way for a long long time and shouldn't have all of a sudden caused the no start problem.
 
  #66  
Old 05-03-07, 07:12 PM
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Did you clean out the whole carb with some kind of carb and choke cleaner?
 
  #67  
Old 05-04-07, 06:08 AM
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no, I did not clean out the carb, I'll pick up some cleaner this afternoon and try that, too. Thanks!
 
  #68  
Old 02-23-08, 06:34 PM
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I have a wiring diagram

It's been a long time since this thread was started but I thought I would post this info in case it's any help to anyone. I have a wiring diagram, in fact I have all the owners manuals, parts manuals etc for the Gilson tractor. If anyone would like to have a copy of something, please let me know and I'll try to get something scanned and sent to you.
 
  #69  
Old 02-24-08, 09:21 PM
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Very nice of you rebtris! Welcome to DIY!
 
  #70  
Old 05-16-08, 08:14 AM
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re: scan

Originally Posted by rebtris View Post
It's been a long time since this thread was started but I thought I would post this info in case it's any help to anyone. I have a wiring diagram, in fact I have all the owners manuals, parts manuals etc for the Gilson tractor. If anyone would like to have a copy of something, please let me know and I'll try to get something scanned and sent to you.
HI my son has completely tore down and repainted the gilson lawn tractor. It looks like brand new will send pics later but now is the time to figure out the wiring. We found another Gilson with a working engine about 2 years newer..just wondering if thier is any differences.
 
  #71  
Old 05-26-08, 07:22 PM
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steering Parts

Rebtris

I just got one of these mowers and the steering does not work properly. Does your manual have a diagram on how the steering parts are assembled or at least a parts list for the steering mechanism

thanks
 
  #72  
Old 06-09-08, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rebtris View Post
It's been a long time since this thread was started but I thought I would post this info in case it's any help to anyone. I have a wiring diagram, in fact I have all the owners manuals, parts manuals etc for the Gilson tractor. If anyone would like to have a copy of something, please let me know and I'll try to get something scanned and sent to you.

Would like to obtain a user/owners manual for a gilson 52066 riding mower. My immediate need is for drive and deck belt sizes and part numbers. There seems to be belts available for Gilson mowers on line but part numbers are required.

Thanks Rsturdy
 
  #73  
Old 06-23-08, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rebtris View Post
It's been a long time since this thread was started but I thought I would post this info in case it's any help to anyone. I have a wiring diagram, in fact I have all the owners manuals, parts manuals etc for the Gilson tractor. If anyone would like to have a copy of something, please let me know and I'll try to get something scanned and sent to you.
Hi! I have a Gilson 18 HP garden tractor. Model #53079. I am trying to find a diagram of how the belts attach to the mower deck. I have a parts manual, but it doesn't show me what belt goes on what pully. If you have this, it would be a godsend.

Thank You!!!!
 
  #74  
Old 09-23-08, 07:47 PM
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gilson wiring

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but i have a owners manual for a Gilson model 53073 and though i would throw in some info from it.The wiring diagram shows the orange wire from engine plug (guessing from alternator) going to the B terminal of ignition switch along with black fused wire to positive battery terminal via connection at solenoid, the blue wire from solenoid to S terminal at ignition switch, and yellow kill wire from coil to the G terminal of switch. It doesnt show anything on the M or L terminal of switch, im guessing the M terminal is grounded to case of switch grounding it to the metal gilson dash panel and the L is for lights but since the gilsons have a seperate light switch its unused, but if wanted green wire from lights could be hooked to it to make lights come on with key.My manual doesnt have a diagram of belt rounting for deck, sorry. Hope this has been helpful,my gilson has been used to mow 3 acres since the early 80's until last year, now it only plows snow and is getting a 22hp intek vtwin installed the 18hp opposed twin finally bit dust a valve seat came loose, i believe caused by overheating due to plugged cooling fins.
 
  #75  
Old 05-04-09, 03:39 PM
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buck_3

Just wondering if you ever got the mower to run.
 
  #76  
Old 05-05-09, 02:10 PM
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Yes, I did get the motor to run - for about 2 minutes - the second I engaged the blades, it killed, and never would start again. Dad got tired of dealing with it and bought a new rider for my cousin and me to share (she lives next door to me). The junk man hauled Mr Gilson away - new ignition switch, new coil, working wiring and all.

I enjoyed the learning experience and very much appreciate the help provided.
 
  #77  
Old 05-06-09, 02:04 PM
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buck

For some reason I purchased a Gilson. It runs great but
everytime I engage the blades it will run for a while and
then the belt for blades comes off. I talked to a repairman
and he knew exactly what was wrong with it. Paid him $160
got the mower home started to mow and the belt came off.
If I wasn't so cheap I would have purchased a good mower
to start with. I think you father did the right thing for you
 
  #78  
Old 05-06-09, 10:49 PM
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If I were you, I'd be talking to that repairman again. I wouldn't just let him have $160 for nothing. If he is of any account, he will be glad to make good on his repair.
 
  #79  
Old 05-07-09, 06:31 AM
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buck_3

I suppose I could but would have to load the mower and
haul it 13 miles and then probably pay them $40 and hour
to work on it again and I don't think the mower is worth that.
Easier and probably cheaper to charge it up to experience
and start over.
 
  #80  
Old 05-07-09, 10:15 PM
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Pay him $40/hr for doing something you already paid him $160 to do the first time? Not me. He'd be doing it again, and again if necessary, until I got what I paid for the first time. I don't charge my customers the second time if I have to do a job twice. It happens to the best of us, but the best of us don't charge for re-doing something we already got paid for.
 
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