Armature Seperation

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  #1  
Old 04-06-07, 11:10 AM
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Unhappy Armature Seperation

I have a Coleman 5000w generator with a tecumseh 10hp(HM100). I am trying to seperate the genset armature from the crankshaft to do work on the engine. I have made a special puller that grabs the backside of the armature plus made a bolt with a center in it so the jacking screw stays put. I have put considerable pressure on the armature with the puller plus used a sharp rap on the jack screw to get it to break free. No luck at all. I believe the crankshaft has a locking taper. Could this be THAT locking? Am I missing something? There is a plastic cooling fan plus all those windings so I'm afraid to use heat.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-06-07, 11:29 AM
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Maybe
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=273119&highlight=tapered+shaft

All I found with a quick search, I dont know personally.
 
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Old 04-06-07, 03:15 PM
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Yes, the engine crankshaft is tapered and I see there was no closure on the thread that Azis referred to. So, ideally, you need a special tool to remove the gen armature, it's what is called a knockoff tool. If you are familiar with snowmobile engine clutch removal this will be the same procedure and similar tool. It, in your case, be a long punch-like tool that threads into the armature at the bearing carrier end being 5/8" or better thread. This threads into the armature and butts up against the end of the crankshaft and scares the armature off from the crank. Home-made will be difficult, if you have a service shop in your area that services generators perhaps they will be kind enough to do this for you.
 
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Old 04-09-07, 03:42 PM
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Unhappy armature seperation

Thanks for the reply guys.This is the first time i have used an online help cite like this. Puey61, you mentioned a knock off tool which sounds like it would work if i have the picture right in my head. But there are no threads on the bearing end of the armature. Just a clearance hole on the end for the 5/16-24 bolt that goes into the crank. I talked to one guy who used a balljoint fork to split the pieces but said he ruined the fan in doing so. I don't know how he got the fork in there when the diecast housing is in the way. Especially when the housing is bolted to the engine case. Maybe I should just do the machine work with the armature attached. If I had to make some thing that would be fine. I am lucky to have a well equiped shop to use.Thanks again.
 

Last edited by Moldman; 04-09-07 at 03:59 PM.
  #5  
Old 04-09-07, 04:35 PM
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Sorry, I can't think of anything to recommend since your gen doesn't have the necessary threaded end for the tool I suggested. This is typical of consumer grade gens, not service friendly or servicable, at all, for that matter. It's a throw away generation, which I call the Wal-Mart syndrome. Perhaps GregH over in Tools and Power Machinery could better help you along, have a look and post a thread there. I merely only dabble in the generation end of gas generators and don't specialize, at my shop. We're engine guys but know enough to get us through the power generation.
 
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Old 04-09-07, 10:27 PM
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I've found that a sideways motion of the armature generally pops it off. I use a block of wood against the shaft, and hit it with a hammer to jolt it to the side.
 
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Old 04-23-07, 05:53 PM
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Finally!!

I finally got the armature off! When puey61 said ya have to scare it off I guess he meant it. I had to put a bar clamp across the pullers to keep them from wanting to slide off. Then, I put enough pressure on the jack screw to scare me! One tap on the screw with a piece or copper and bingo. So, I look all over town for valve spring compressor and no luck. I can order an oversized exhaust valve from a local dealer but no special tools. I suppose I also need a reamer to over size the valve guide. they can't get me that either. Are the reamers piloted to fit the original guide hole? Are they hand reamers or machine reamers? Could I use an expandable (adjustable diameter) reamer? Is there a good place to go online to find these special tools? Am I asking too many questions? Thanks
 
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Old 04-23-07, 06:29 PM
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Glad you got it and now we'll need some information on the engine to steer you right. Engine: make, model, specification and/or serial numbers, please. Generally, you can buy the necessary tools to do the job from a small engine shop. The make of engine will determine the available resources. By the way, no, you are not asking too many ????!
 
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Old 04-24-07, 01:54 PM
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OK. Engine is Tecumseh 10hp Model HM100 Spec.159493V. I believe the part no. for the exhaust valve is 27880A. I can't seem to find a shop around here that sells special tools.
 
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Old 04-24-07, 08:01 PM
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Valve reamer

That is the correct part number for the over size valve. The Tecumseh part number for the valve guide reamer is 670284 any Tecumseh dealer can order one for you about $27.00 it is a hand reamer or low speed drill press. The upper and lower valve spring caps must be redrilled to accommodate the oversize valve stems. After over sizing the valve guides, the valve seats must be re cut to align the valve seat to the valve guide.
 
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