Craftsman Tecumseh 6.0 flowing fuel from primer tube into air filter

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  #1  
Old 04-18-07, 07:35 PM
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Craftsman Tecumseh 6.0 flowing fuel from primer tube into air filter

I've tried dropping the bowl, cleaning the bolt orifices, lubricating the pivot pin, and new gas aplenty, but I can't seem to get this little guy to stop flowing gas from the primer tube whenever I fill the tank. I can gently raise the float and then I can't blow through the fuel tube, so I feel like the needle/seat are alright.

Any ideas? How should I troubleshoot this before the grass gets too out of control?

Thanks in advance, all.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-19-07, 03:17 AM
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If the primer tube you are referring to is red, in color, then this is actually the bowl vent tube. For fuel to be pouring from this, you have one (or more) of three problems. 1- The inlet needle and seat are not, in fact, functioning as they should. 2- The float (if brass, as opposed to plastic) has a hole in it and is thereby no longer floating. 3- The bowl vent is clogged whereas it is not, in fact, venting. Rather than assuming one over the others, I'd recommend servicing the carburetor and installing a rebuild kit and new float. You would need a quality bath type cleaner, spray carburetor cleaner and compressed air to do this job. While it can be done without compressed air, you may not get the results anticipated without such. If you've never reconditioned a carburetor before and would rather not attempt this, you could always take the carburetor, only, to a reputable repair shop in your area and have them perform the rebuild.
 
  #3  
Old 04-19-07, 06:58 AM
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update

The tube is, in fact, red. This is a Craftsman 143.996004 engine, which I've found is a Tecumseh LEV115-360021C. More research shows I've got a 640174 carb, which apparently has been replaced with the 640262A.

I have rebuilt a carburetor before on an old Honda of mine (funny story - had the float assembly sitting on the bench, knocked it over, cracked it, super glued the plastic floats back together under my GF's dad's advice, reassembled, reinstalled, drove for a couple of days, and then had the glue let go and had to do it all over again).

I see replacement carbs going for ~$56 or so:
http://www.iowamotorparts.com/tecumseh_carbs.htm

Any idea what a) the rebuild kit or b) the full service might cost?

Also, I see it attached with two bolts. The outer looks easy, but that inner one looks pretty nasty, with the starter cover and all in the way. Tips?

I super appreciate your speedy response. I adore forums such as this.
 
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Old 04-19-07, 09:28 AM
Azis
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I have found on these it easier just to remove the entire intake and carb as one assy. You simply can not get to the fuel line without tearin sumin up, yourself or the mower.
The linkage will be the last thing to remove and the first to install on re-assy.
You can get the part #'s and price info from sears @ http://www3.sears.com/
Some shops tell me there are no kits but I have found kits that include all you need plus what you dont need to cover several models.
If your main jet is good all there really is, is the needle/seat, float and a bowl gasket.
Individually you should be able to get all of it round 10 bucks.

Oh ya don't forget the primer bulb. It should be a seperate item but only a couple bucks.
 
  #5  
Old 04-19-07, 09:51 AM
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stuff I have found

I have found a 632760B rebuild kit here and there:
http://www.shakyparts.com/632760b_original_carburetor_kit.html

and the places I've found that have also had individual parts for the float and primer bulb.

I figure if I've got it off I might as well give it a good "refreshing".

If I'm pulling the entire intake assembly, it sounds like I'll need an extra gasket that may not come in the carb rebuild kit, right?

Thanks again.
 
  #6  
Old 04-19-07, 11:02 AM
Azis
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Usually the intake gasket can be reused. If not, yes, it will be seperate from the carb kit.
 
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Old 04-19-07, 12:00 PM
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Update

Dropped by the local small engine shop to see what they had for parts and ended up having their tech talk me in to replacing the carb. EPA this, no more rebuilding that, A little higher in the end than I would like ($75 shipped and taxed), but it does seem like this'll be a more guaranteed fix. Should I get the kit anyway and rebuild the old one as a spare, do you think?
 
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Old 04-19-07, 02:11 PM
Azis
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DOH!!! Ya coulda got the prob fixed I think with a needls and seat or float.
Thats about 1/2 what the mower is new aint it? Eh well hope that gets ya goin.
 
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Old 04-19-07, 06:51 PM
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Obviously, the technician you talked with doesn't have much confidence in his ability to recondition carburetors. Or, they're shop charges well over what would be considered reasonable to recon carbs and would, therefore, be better off buying a new one. You could, generally, expect to pay less than half of the cost of a new carb to have one reconditioned professionally. At least in my part of the country! If you go by his recommendation and you don't follow good practices during storage periods then he'll be selling you a new carburetor every year. My conscience won't let me do that to my customers.
 
  #10  
Old 04-19-07, 08:10 PM
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Agreed

I think you both make fine points. I am going to ensure that I learn from this experience by taking my old carb and learn to properly rebuild it myself. I'll get the kit like both of you have recommended and do my best to take my time and get this thing rebuilt properly. That way I'll have a spare, right? Of course, I'll make it a point to be more religious about draining the tank and bowl as well!

I've read that there really won't be any instructions that come with the kit. Well, I guess I actually held the kit in my hand at the shop as well, and certainly saw no instructions with it. What should I use as a guide?
 
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Old 04-20-07, 06:21 AM
Azis
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Once you remove the old carb and remove the bowl, you will see there is little need for instruction.
This manual however, should provide any details you may need.
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
 
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