Need help removing flywheel from 19.5 hp briggs motor on craftsman riding mower

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  #1  
Old 05-03-07, 06:42 PM
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Need help removing flywheel from 19.5 hp briggs motor on craftsman riding mower

I need to replace the starter gear on my craftsman riding mower, and it appears like I need to pull the flywheel off to get to it.

I can't figure out how to go about this though. There's a large nut on top that it seems I need to unscrew, but I can't budge, especially since the flywheel wants to turn with it. I can't seem to find anyway to chock the flywheel safely. What's the trick?

The tractor is a model 917.270810
The motor is a model 42E701,
 
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  #2  
Old 05-03-07, 07:15 PM
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Why do you have to take off the flywheel? The part you are replacing is on the starter, right? Starter comes off a lot easier than a flywheel.
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-07, 07:22 PM
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I don't see any way to get the starter off, without first removing the flywheel. There's at least 2 bolts holding on the starter from the top, one of them is under the flywheel. A open end wrench would allow me to loosen it, but it can't come out with the flywheel there.
 
  #4  
Old 05-04-07, 12:10 AM
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You can loosen the bolt under there with an open end wrench like you said, and leave it in the starter. Pull the starter out with the bolt still in it. Then reinstall it the same way. That's the way I do this job on those opposed cylinder twin briggs engines. You can remove the flywheel, but you'll need an impact wrench or flywheel holder to get the nut off, then a puller to get the flywheel off after the nut is removed. It's easier to leave it on and just pull the starter out.
 
  #5  
Old 05-04-07, 03:50 AM
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Yeah, I'll have to give that a try. Taking off that flywheel sounds like an awful lot of work!
 
  #6  
Old 05-04-07, 08:51 AM
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That's exactly how you do it. I have done it many times and just as the Cheese said works well.

Remove the bolt closest to you completely and the one under the fly wheel loosen up with the open end wrench. Finish unscrewing it with your thumb and forefinger till it's cocked..jiggle the starter a little and it should come free off the base. To put back it's just the reverse... small fingers work better when undoing the stubborn bolt...
 
  #7  
Old 05-04-07, 11:42 AM
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That worked!

Thanks alot guys, that worked great.
I was able to get the starter off and replace the gear.

Only thing is that little ring that goes in the groove up top is a bit#H to get on and off. Is there a special tool for that?
 
  #8  
Old 05-04-07, 12:20 PM
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There is a tool for the C-ring installation, Briggs part number 19435 and the removal tool is part number 19436 and the flywheel holder is part number 19489.
 
  #9  
Old 05-27-08, 01:31 PM
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similar problem

Hi. I am having the same problem but need to go further. I can turn the flywheel with both hand and after a rotation (part of the rotation is a little hard) i feel the compression. When i jump the starter with my car battery, the flywheel turns until that point of compression and then stops and my cables get hot until i go by hand again. I was going to remove the flywheel and see what needs to be lubes or greases since it was sitting outside for about 3 years and the flywheel is coated in rust. I took bthe valve covers off and all is moving. This is a 461707-0415-e1 20.5 turbo twin cyl briggs and straton. I attepted to remove the flywheel but i can hold it back and undo the large nut on top. What do i need to do to hold back the flywheel or do i not need to do this cause it is something differnent going on. Any help is so appreciated. Thank you
 
  #10  
Old 05-27-08, 11:51 PM
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I don't think you'll find anything under the flywheel that will make any difference. There are no moving parts under it, and nothing to grease.

Take the plugs out and try cranking it. SOunds like the valves need adjusting or there is gas or oil in the cylinders. Be careful when cranking with the plugs out in case there is gas in the cylinders. You don't want a plug wire sparking while gas is spraying out of the engine. If you need more assistance, start a new thread. Your engine is different from the one in question here, and the problem is unrelated, so a new thread would be more appropriate.
 
  #11  
Old 05-28-08, 05:45 AM
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Actually, the 461707 is an L-head twin as well, and
hard to turn over is not that uncommon, but often mis-diagnosed

The top bearing of the starter wears out, causing the winding
to hit the magnets, and do a lot of damage. This can
be hastened by a had to crank condition.

Remove the plugs then crank, if all is as it should be
it should spins fast and strong, if not, look at the starter,
battery, terminals, etc..

I am assuming by valve covers, you meant the heads,
and were looking at the top of the valves and pistons.
If you see rocker arms, then the model number is wrong,
which could well be, as the type number was.

If you see rocker arms, then you should adjust the valves.
If it is the l-head twin, then you should thoroughly decarbon the cumbustion chamber, and reinstall. This will ease
the cranking problem.

Fish
 
  #12  
Old 05-28-08, 08:27 AM
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Hmmmm

Thank you for replying. It is so wierd. Sometimes its free, but a little stiff, and sometimes i hear a it banking on the bottom somewhere and it stops it hard. I cnt even move it by hand. Im guessing what ever it is attached to directley beneath, that that is rubbing and now stopping it completley. I guess i should turn the unit upside down and remove the plate and see what happening. It may not be the engine afterall. What do you think, beside to bring it to a certified repair guy. Im mechanically inclined to a point. Thank you
 
  #13  
Old 05-28-08, 05:15 PM
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not working

I had it on its back and it is deifinitly locking up inside the block. It knocks hard, pretty solid when i turn the pully or the flywheel. Can i access the inside by removing the flywheel or do i need to approch it another way?
 
  #14  
Old 05-28-08, 10:07 PM
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Is this a flathead or OHV? I figured OHV because you mentioned removing valve covers, but I didn't check the model#. If this is a flathead, you can access the engine internals by removing a plate on the back of the engine. If it is an OHV V-Twin, then you'll have to remove the engine and open up the case. You can't access the insides from under the flywheel. You might check under the flywheel to be sure one of the magnets didn't come loose and get stuck in the charging stator, causing it to hit when you turn the engine. I'd do that before opening the crankcase. I guess there is reason to remove the flywheel after all, but there isn't anything there that will affect compression, or that you can grease to aid in turning the engine.
 
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