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b&s will not stay running


arkansasgirl's Avatar
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05-13-07, 08:14 AM   #1  
b&s will not stay running

I have a riding lawn tractor. Specifications are as follows:Model:406777, Type:0127 E1, Code:980123yg. Okay that out of the way I have drained the gas tank ,took carb off and took it to the mower shop and he told me it didn't need to be rebuilt but did put a new bowl I believe on the bottom that has a connector that plugs into it. Let me just say that before I took it to a shop the only way it would run was with the choke pulled out almost fully. I get it home and it starts wonderfully, mow a very large yard, couple weeks , time to mow again, go out and guess what, won't start and stay running. Changed the plugs, fuel filter and also replaced the fuel pump. Not all at one time, first the filter and plugs, no go, so determined the pump wasn't pumping. replaced and it started and was able to mow the fenced in back yard, starts raining as it has done in this great state for months, so when I go to continue it will start , run just a very short time and dies , like it is running out of gas. Has only the one adjust screw for fuel mixture, adjusted choke and throttle cable, and I'm about to throw a match on it this morning. Any help or advise. Grass is invading me....

 
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05-13-07, 09:12 AM   #2  
My Two Cents

Hello: arkansasgirl

Try this:

#1
When the engine dies, loosen the gas tanks cap then re-tighten the cap again or remove cap totally. Then replace the cap, if you removed it.

Start the engine again. If the engine starts and runs for a while and dies again, try this.

#2
If gas tank is half or less full, remove the gas cap all together. Restart the engine and note the results. Engine should continue to run well passed the time it usually dies.

In the first test above, if the engine starts and dies again, very likely the gas tanks cap is defective. The breather hole in the cap is plugged or restricted.

As the fuel is used, outside air must enter the fuel tank to replace used fuel. If the cap is defective, or the vent hole is restricted or plugged, a vacuum is formed inside the tank and gas stops flowing.

When cap is loosened or removed and the engine continues to run, the engine is fueled starved. Replacing the fuel tanks cap resolves the problem.

Vent cap problems often eludes some mechanics.

 
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05-13-07, 09:37 AM   #3  
Azis
When it will not start, try adding a few drops to the carb and see if it will fire and run if you keep adding fuel. Mind you a teaspoon of fuel is plenty.
The bowl and connector you mention is or should be the fuel solenoid. This activates a plunger to stop fuel flow to the engine. It could be the connector/connection itself or other wiring/grounding problems.

 
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05-13-07, 09:46 AM   #4  
Azis
[quote author=Sharp Advice link=topic=1255.msg1172775#post1172795 date=1178817489]Vent cap problems often eludes some mechanics.[/quote]


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05-14-07, 07:44 AM   #5  
I am having a very similiar problem with my B&S. It starts great, runs great, initially. I can do a couple laps around my yard then I start to lose power. I can max the choke out and it will continue a little longer. Eventually though, it will completely shut down. I walk away, come back in about 5 minutes, starts great, sounds great, 2 laps later it starts dying again.

I have put in a new spark plug, air filter, fuel filter and changed the oil.

Thanks for any help!

 
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05-14-07, 10:13 AM   #6  
Azis
What engine model and type?
Did you try the fuel cap?
If that does not change any thing, see if you can continue to run it and see if the time it will continue, gets shorter, or the time you have to let it cool gets longer.
If the fuel cap does nothing and the time changes as the engine gets warmer then I would suspect ignition coil.

 
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05-15-07, 06:13 AM   #7  
Model: 287707
Type: 1255-F3.

I tried the Gas Cap last night, when it started acting up I removed it, didn't help.
What I did do was drive around and never had a problem, until I engaged the blades. Then I did a lap with the blades going, then it started having issues.

 
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05-15-07, 07:30 AM   #8  
Azis
The symptoms still are not convincing me one way or the other, fuel or spark. It is sounding like a fuel delivery problem, but I have had a bad coil act the same way. If it never stalled out completely I would say fuel, but since it does, I still think it could be spark.
If you can get it in a no start condition, try a splash of fuel in the carb and see if it fires. If it starts and stays running, this test may not have revealed anything. If it fires but still will not start on its own then I would go after fuel. If it will not fire or start, check for spark.

 
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05-15-07, 09:39 AM   #9  
If I wait 5 minutes after I stall, it will ALWAYS fire right up and runs smooth. It has a new spark plug, new fuel filter, new air filter.

So it would seem to perhaps to have something to do with temperature. Especially since engaging the blades speeds up the stall process. Once blades are engaged, it still takes a bit for it to get to stall conditions.

 
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05-15-07, 10:11 AM   #10  
Azis
Have a nice day and good luck

 
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05-15-07, 06:20 PM   #11  
Sasgirl, based on the fact you can keep it running with choke partial to full for a time indicates that you have a restriction within the carburetor. Although the repair shop believed it didn't need a reconditioning, I believe you do. Find out, from them or another shop how much they charge to recondition a carburetor. If it is twenty bucks or less plus parts I'd ask them to soak and recondition the carb with a Briggs kit part number 499811 or possibly as little as a gasket kit which is part number 499812. Be sure they use a quality bath type cleaner to soak the carb. I like and recommend Napa # 6402.

Face, I wonder if you have a parasitic issue such as, perhaps, a deck blade spindle assembly seizing up when hot and then bogging down the engine to a halt. Try operating the machine without the deck engaged for a similar amount of time that you first notice your trouble and then another 10-15 minutes past that point and see if any trouble surfaces. If so, then I'd say you need to do as I recommended to Sasgirl. If not then run the machine at full operating mode until your problem arises and immediately disengage the deck, shut down the tractor and grab ahold of each blade spindle assembly (by way of the blade) and have a feel for any bearing problems. Also, be sure the deck idlers are OK too.

 
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05-20-07, 02:50 AM   #12  
Well I guess I will change lawn mower shops because from everything I have read and the fact that the carb hasn't been touched in oh, 3, 4 years. probably more and now it will start, run but only if you have the throttle on slow. soon as you turn it up it will die or if you attempt to adjust the choke. I f it is choke all the way then maybe, but not for any lenghth of time and I'm pretty much fed up. I borrowed my Dad's today so that I didn't loose the way to the house. Thanks for everyone's replies. Almost has to be the carb I guess. Only one other question, if you unhook the hose that goes into the carb from fuel pump should there be alot of gas shooting out the end when engine is cranked. Just curious. I would have thought much more than was coming out but it seems to be going from the gas tank thru the fuel pump . from there it seems there becomes a problem.

 
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05-20-07, 06:31 AM   #13  
The fuel pump will not provide any fuel supply without the engine cranked over or running. As for the amount when cranked over, it's rather hard to describe the flow you should have but it won't be gushing and yet it won't be a trickle is all I can best describe. Perhaps this is your trouble but, again, that is something difficult to describe. What I would recommend is removing the carburetor from the manifold and taking it to a reputable repair shop and have them recondition the carburetor and fuel pump. Be sure you note where the linkage(s) hook up when you remove it so that it is reinstalled correctly, making special note of the hole in which the link(s) came out of. Note the last instructions I posted in my previous post to you, below.

 
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