Gassy Dark Spark Plug

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  #1  
Old 05-18-07, 06:28 PM
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Question Gassy Dark Spark Plug

I have a Troy Bilt roto tiller with a 6 HP Tecumseh I was having trouble starting and keeping it running. I purchased a new spark plug and returned the power adjustment screw and idle fuel adjustment screw to the proper settings. It ran for a while and then quit and will not now restart.

I removed the spark plug and it is dark and smells like gasoline and is wet. The dark gassy material wiped right off with a paper towel. It is not the dry baked on dark material that has to be taken off with an emory cloth.

Could someone tell me what to adjust to get it going again and get the gassy smell and wetness from the spark plug?

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me on this!!
 
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Old 05-18-07, 07:42 PM
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Assuming you have the carb adj screws set properly,have you tried running it w/o the air filter in case it is plugged? It sounds like it is running rich,which could be carb adjustments or air filter.Is it blowing black smoke while running?
I would set the power adj screw 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated and the idle fuel screw 1 1/4 out from lightly seated.
Hth,
Mike
 
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Old 05-18-07, 07:51 PM
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Mike,

Thanks for the reply. No, when it was running for the while that it was going it did not blow black smoke. Also, over the winter I cleaned the air filter sponge material and the filter itself did not look to bad.
 
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Old 05-19-07, 12:57 AM
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Check to see if you have spark. You might have lost ignition, and just flooded the engine trying to start it.
 
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Old 05-19-07, 03:59 AM
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Being a 6-horse and with a foam air filter this most likely is an older machine and then may have point ignition. And such ignition may be weak, not necessarily extinct. Be sure you have sufficient spark using an inline spark tester. It would help us if you will post back with the exact engine model, specification and serial numbers.
 
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Old 05-19-07, 05:24 AM
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Smile

I did not see the traditional stick on plate on the side of the engine that has model #, etc, but stamped into the side of the metal that surrounds the start puller/recoil thing is the following:

HH60-105106G SER 0298D

Hope this helps and thanks for any help that you can give me on this!!
 
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Old 05-19-07, 09:57 AM
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The serial number (0298(D)) tells me it (the engine) was built on the 298th day of the year "0". And with a "G" for a specification letter, this likely puts it at a 1970 model year but it may be a 1980. In either case, you will have point ignition and the liklihood of ignition trouble is high. Check for sufficient spark!!! And then we'll procede.
 
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Old 05-19-07, 10:16 AM
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Smile

Puey61

Wow, you are good. I just looked in the owners manual and the guy that I bought it from used had written that it was purchased in March of 1981 which means exactly what you said, made the last part of 1980.

Now for the hard part. How do I "check for sufficient spark", I have no clue how to do that. I do not really have any type of equipment other than wrenches and screwdrivers and stuff like that.

Thanks!!
 
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Old 05-19-07, 10:36 AM
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Do you have a pair of Jumper cables? Or similar test lead will work as long as the clip/clamp can reach around the spark plug.

You can use a plug removed from the engine or leave it in and use a spare plug. Connect the spark plug to the spark plug lead from the engine. Connect your cable/test lead to the hex or round metal part of the spark plug with one end and the other to a solid metal place on the engine. Now you should be able to crank the engine and observe for spark hands free, cept for the one on the cranker
 
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Old 05-19-07, 11:21 AM
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Being a horizontal engine, simply remove the spark plug, install it back into the plug wire, lay it on the head (which is what you pulled the spark plug out of), pull the engine over and watch for spark at the electrode gap (in a dimly lit room is best). This is not the best means to check ignition strength but is a good initial step without the use of a tester. If you have no spark then try a new one which will be a Champion J8C or J17LM. If still no spark or if it is anything other than dark blue in color (white, orange or light blue in color), then you will want to replace the points and condensor. While you may have a weak/failed ignition coil, it is rather unlikely...but possible. Do you know where the points & condensor are and how to replace them, if needed?
 
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Old 05-19-07, 07:03 PM
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Angry

I took the plug out and pulled the starter and I did not get a spark of any kind. The spark plug that I have is brand new and did work for one or two sessions with the rototiller before it quit working.

I do not have a clue about the points or condensor. I don't even know what they look like or where to find them. Are they items that I could replace on my own at home or do I have to hire someone to do it? Also, if I could replace them myself, where would I go to buy them.

Thanks!!
 
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Old 05-20-07, 06:56 AM
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Only you'd know if you can do the repair based on the need of the following tools: Flywheel puller; Feeler gauges, particularly .020"; And, torque wrench. This can be done without the previous tools but since you're a newbie to this procedure I wouldn't recommend it done without such. The points and condensor (and ignition coil, for that matter) are all under the flywheel and the flywheel must be removed and properly torqued upon reassembly, and, the points must be set to a gap of .020" at full open. The parts you need are as follows: 30547A, points; 30548B, condensor; 30560A, ignition coil (if needed) and can be purchased at any local small engine shop that carries Tecumseh parts. These are extremely popular parts and any reputable shop had better have them on their shelf.
 
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Old 05-20-07, 10:34 AM
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I think that I might give it a try if you can answer a few more questions for me. In order to get the flywheel that you are talking about, do I only have to remove the cover for the starter/puller cord or do I have to remove the whole metal shroud that has the gas tank on top of it also?

I thought that I would be able to give it a try anyway. Do you know approxomately how much a torque wrench, flywheel puller and feeler guage would be? Also, can those items be purchased at a place such as home depot? Also, how much would the parts that you are talking about cost?

I am just trying to weight if it would be worth my while to do it myself or if I should have someone come to my place to fix it. I can't even take the roto tiller into a shop because I do not have a trailer or trailer hitch. They charge $35-45 to pick up and drop off around here.

Thanks!!
 
  #14  
Old 05-20-07, 03:34 PM
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The rewind starter is mounted to the flywheel shroud and these will come off as an assembly (three head bolts and two side bolts - you may have to LOOSEN the two head bolts that hold the gas tank in place as well). I doubt you'll find the 'wheel puller at a box store but you may find a torque wrench and feeler gauges but are more likely to find them at an automotive store or a Sears hardware store. the 'wheel puller is special to Tecumseh engines and can be purchased at a local Tecumseh dealer. An option instead of the flywheel puller is a knockoff tool and, as well, can be purchased from a Tecumseh dealer. A cheapo torque wrench can be bought at Sears, for instance, for around $50 and a full set of feeler gauges for less than $10. The ignition coil is around $25, the points around $6 and the condensor around $4. This, to me, is an extremely easy engine to work on and if you were able to get it to my shop (hypothetically speaking) by way of a buddies truck, I'd charge you around $30 plus parts, provided the head bolts aren't stubborn/rusted and come out with ease. Lets say a head bolt, or more, breaks off due to never being removed, ever, and I would then need to repair such broken head bolt(s), this would be by the clock hour and could possibly take over an hour to repair. Good luck and let us know what you decide.
 
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