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Craftsman Eager-1 Still Won't Start


slowillie's Avatar
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05-23-07, 09:15 AM   #1  
Specs for Sears Mod 143996510 Lawnmower Engine

I need valve spacings and spark plug gap for the above propelled mower. I believe that this is a Tecumseh engine.

Thanks,

 
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05-23-07, 09:25 AM   #2  
Tecumseh basic information.

HI Slowillie,

Try the Tecumseh site. You might need to find out the engine model number.

http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf

HTH

 
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05-23-07, 04:35 PM   #3  
143.996510 Sears engine is a Tecumseh LEV120-361044B

Valve specs: Intake .004 Exhaust .008

Sparkplug Gap: .030

 
slowillie's Avatar
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05-24-07, 08:22 PM   #4  
Thanks.

My valves seem to be short (intake 0.008, exhaust 0.010). Past experience, mostly from many years ago, suggests that they are usually too long. There is no excessive carbon build-up around the heads. A local fellow told me today that newer engines almost NEVER have valve problems. I'm not sure how new he meant. This is about a 2000 model. Any comments about any of this?

I am almost convinced that my main problem is fuel supply. If the carburetor bowl is full, and I depress the primer button while looking into the carburetor body, I should see fuel injected into the carburetor, right? If I do not, what does that suggest? I have taken the carburetor apart and cleaned it, but that does not mean I got every opening properly cleaned! Is there any way to remove the primer button?

Thanks again,

 
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05-25-07, 02:15 AM   #5  
On a Tecumseh carburetor the primed spray is virtually negligible and very difficult to decipher whether or not you're actually priming. The bulb will come out with a small bladed screwdriver and prying out the retaining ring that keeps the bulb in place. I suggest doing this and also removing all other rubber/plastic items (with the exception of the fuel inlet fitting) and soaking the carb in a bath cleaner (I like Napa's # 6402) and then spraying off with a good carb/choke cleaner and then blowing out with compressed air and then reconditioning with the proper Tecumseh rebuild kit and a new primer bulb and installing a new intake gasket. NOTE: If the fuel inlet fitting is plastic don't soak for more than 15 minute intervals before spraying off and blowing out and allowing to set 15 minutes and then re-soaking again, if necessary.

 
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05-25-07, 09:44 AM   #6  
After taking everything apart and cleaning, what is the correct way to adjust the idler restrictor screw? I should have done a better job of noting how it was set to begin with!!!!! Is it just screwed all the way in?

 
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05-25-07, 10:35 AM   #7  
screw the adjustment screw all the way in until it just bearly seats then unscrew 1-1/2 turns out.crank engine,let it warm up then readjust to sound or RPM metter idel = 2900 high speed = 3200

 
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05-25-07, 09:20 PM   #8  
Craftsman Eager-1 Still Won't Start

This is a Craftsman Model 143.996510, which has a Tecumseh engine. Every indication is that it is not getting fuel. After priming, it tries to start, but will not keep running. If it is primed more, it "runs" longer, but just seems to use the fuel from priming and then stops.

I have cleaned the carb with carb cleaner, and replaced essentially all the parts. It certainly seems to be in good order.

What do I try next?

Thanks,

 
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05-26-07, 12:06 AM   #9  
What kind of cleaner did you use? Did you use compressed air? There should be 4 holes in the bowl screw. Did you clear all of them? One is very small and hard to see when it's clogged.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-26-07, 11:03 AM   #10  
What kind of cheese do you recommend? I will try some immediately!!!

You are exactly correct - I had missed the small hole above the threads on the bowl screw.

So it is now running. There is no throttle. It starts rather slowly, but then gets warmed up and really goes. There seems to be no way to limit the top speed. Is this expected?

As it runs, the idler screw backs itself out (it was open about 1 turn when the engine was started). Is there supposed to be a way to stop this? Is the rubber cap the only thing holding it in place? It does not seem to matter at all where the idler screw is set. Do I just tighten it, and adjust the throttle crack screw until the engine runs smoothly at start-up?

Thanks sooooo much,

 
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05-26-07, 11:06 AM   #11  
Sorry, I forgot to mention:

I used Briggs & Stratton spray carb/choke cleaner. I did not immerse any of the parts. Then I blew it with compressed air.

 
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05-26-07, 10:45 PM   #12  
Don't run it if it's overrevving. It sounds like the throttle shaft is stuck. You'll need to spray the shaft area and work it back and forth, open and closed until it frees up. Then the throttle will work and the idle screw will make a difference in idle speed.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-27-07, 02:31 PM   #13  
You have a non-adjustable carburetor and the idle circuit jet is to be installed fully seated. With this installed any other way, the engine will not run well at all.

 
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