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Need engine (Toro 7-25 riding lawnmower)


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05-28-07, 04:01 PM   #1  
Need engine (Toro 7-25 riding lawnmower)

for a Toro 7-25 riding lawnmower. old engine is blown beyond repair. (hole in side on block) old engine model 252707 type 0647-01 code 84011211 anyone know where I can find a replacement or a engine that will work. its a Briggs and stratton 11HP 400 CC engine.

 
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05-29-07, 02:27 AM   #2  
This is an 11-horse engine and was originally a 7-horse so this indicates the engine has been replaced once already. Is the mower in good enough shape to consider this? And since it is not original, the replacement for this engine may not necessarily be the right way to go. But anyhow, the replacement for this engine is another Briggs, part number 217907-0025. Any 8 to 12-horse flat-head, single-cylinder engine should work for you though, if you're looking for a used engine.

 
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05-29-07, 07:16 AM   #3  
Would you be able to tell me the shaft size and DIA so if I get one used it has the right size shaft.

 
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05-30-07, 02:21 AM   #4  
It would be easier for you to measure the crankshaft than it would be for me to cross-reference it and since you need to remove the engine anyhow, have a look for yourself and do the measuring. Most likely, though, 1" diameter and 3 5/32" long. Bear in mind that not only will you be concerned with the crank dimensions but the wiring setup as well.

 
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05-30-07, 11:21 AM   #5  
yeah thats what the replacement engine this one warehouse has. but forget a new engine they want over $400 for it and another place wants close to $600 for a new engine i think I found a used one on ebay just waiting to see what happends

 
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06-02-07, 01:46 PM   #6  
Solved

Im going to mark this solved for now as I found a engine on ebay for $180 total. $125 + $55 shipping. its coming from new york

 
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06-12-07, 12:05 AM   #7  
Ok I noticed that this mower does not have a on/off (starter switch) does anyone now what kind I need. there appers to be 2 wires for it but im not sure. the wireing digram for a 88 toro 7-25 shows 4 wires. is that correct. Im guessing its a 88

 
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06-12-07, 02:02 AM   #8  
I don't know which four wires you may be referring to so if you post back with the chassis' model and serial numbers as well as the new engine's model, type and code numbers I can have a look at what you have and what you need to do to tie in the new engine to the chassis' wiring harness. Is the new engine electric start or manual start only? Was the mower originally set up with an electric start feature? In other words, how, in the past, have you started the mower - pull start or key start? Again, ID numbers of both the new engine and the chassis, please.

 
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06-12-07, 04:45 PM   #9  
The new engine is Code # is 84042711.model # is 252707, and the type# is 0638 01 the old engine when I got it is blown. theres a crack in the side of the block. heres a site I went to for digram. click on engine assemble. Im guessing its a 88. and Like said its a toro 7-25 riding lawnmower. the first engine according the website was electric start only and was a Tecumseh. the engine I pulled off was a briggs 11 HP electric start model 252707 type 0647-01 code 84011211 the new engine is used. anyway heres the website. and I'll try when I have time to look on the chasse http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mn=56127%2C+7-25+Rear+Engine+Rider%2C+1988+%28SN+8000001-8999999%29

hope that somewhat helps. I got the rider off of ebay for $100 and they delivered also

 
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06-12-07, 05:02 PM   #10  
7-25 is not the model number! Please find the ID tag and post back with the model and serial numbers. It will be somewhere on the frame (chassis) of the mower.

 
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06-12-07, 06:34 PM   #11  
Ok I will try to look tomorrow then sorry im trying my best. I just figured out what 7-25 means. 7HP 25 inch cut Ok sorry I didn't know im somewhat learning here. I will see if I can find it tommorrow sorry

EDIT I GOT IT model 56125 serial 7002743

 
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06-12-07, 07:12 PM   #12  
flirty, I think we had 3 posts on this, two of which were merged it seems but I replied to the one that wasn't. - anyway
Follow your positive battery cable which should take you to the starter solenoid where there should be two large posts. The other large post should connect to what you were refering to as a 'ground post' on the starter I think. The wire coming from the engine you said had an 'aligator clip' attached I'm thinking is the wire from the alternator I would imagine.
My question is if you pulled an electric start Briggs (the one that broke) how did it start before?

 
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06-12-07, 07:28 PM   #13  
it looked like a aligater clip but its too short to reach anything on the starter and the battery. everything was disconnected when I got it and Im trying it peace it back together. the battery is out. But when I hook it up follow the red or positive which should take me to the starter solenoid where there should be two large posts. The other large post should connect to what you were referring to as a 'ground post' on the starter I think.that would connect to that screw on the engine. the other post leave as its part of the battery. the charger cable is short so its not reaching anything. and its covered by a black plastic boot. Im new so I know nothing about electrics.its over at a friends house so this weekend will take a look at whats going on

 
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06-12-07, 08:11 PM   #14  
Has this mower ran since you've had it or are we starting from scratch? If it did run how did you start the previous Briggs engine? The 'ground post' shouldn't be a ground post at all but supplies power from the battery via the starter solenoid to the starter, I was merely quoting your earlier post using your terminology.
Thanks for posting the model/serial number so those that can look that kind of stuff up can provide good answers.
I'd say don't hook the battery up yet until we come to an understanding of terminology so we are all on the same page.
If I am guessing correctly you bought this mower with a blown second engine. The person that replaced the first engine with the second engine gutted the wiring and used the recoil starter instead of the electric start since you mention there is not an 'on / off (starter switch)'.
Hang in there and this forum will get you going.

 
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06-13-07, 02:34 AM   #15  
Bear with me until later today/tonight. I need to get working at my shop right now but this mower has no solenoid and I'll give you a run down of the electrical arrangement later today.

 
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06-13-07, 03:10 AM   #16  
"Bear with me until later today/tonight. I need to get working at my shop right now but this mower has no solenoid and I'll give you a run down of the electrical arrangement later today."

Ok thanks.

duigoose

it looks like the wires are there for the switch. I'm not 100% sure. I will wait until puey can find the wiring digram

 
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06-13-07, 12:27 PM   #17  
https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=2&in_hi_userid=19461&control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=214&PageID=0

Use the above link (copy and paste into another web page) and input your model number and serial number and hit the enter button on your keyboard. This will bring up a page where you will then click on the "Look up parts" tab. Then click on the "Schematic" link and you will then see the electrical setup of your machine. Print a copy of this and then post back here for further instructions. Also post back with all the total number of wires and the colors of such as well as the color of the connectors related to such wires coming from the new (used) engine you bought.

 
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06-13-07, 01:37 PM   #18  
OK i printed out the diagram. The new(used) engine has only one wire its either red or black (hard to tell) and it has what looks like a black boot around it.

 
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06-14-07, 02:35 AM   #19  
Are you sure there are no other wires from under the flywheel? Look closely for any wires (two, hopefully) that may have been cut off close and under the flywheel. Stand on your head to look under the flywheel, if you must! Just kidding, but look closely for any sign of wires. There SHOULD be two wires as well as a voltage regulator mounted to the flywheel shroud!

 
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06-14-07, 02:35 PM   #20  
OK there are 2 wires i forgot about the other. One like I said comes out and is feed through the mounting frame of the starter. the other is black and connects to a screw terminal on the side of the engine where you connect the control cable.

 
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06-15-07, 02:25 PM   #21  
Ok like said I there is 2 wires after all. One is black and connects to a screw terminal on the side of the engine where the trottle controll is. the other one is either black or red and has what looks like a push connecter. so anyideas where those hookup. according the diagram the wires are while and red but this engines wire are black and I think red.

 
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06-16-07, 03:09 AM   #22  
Sorry it took a while to respond, I've had a busier week than usual. Hopefully, the wiring schematic makes sense to you and the only difference will be that you will substitute the white wire in the schematic for the red wire on your new engine and the red wire (from the engine) in the schematic with the black wire from your engine. On your new engine, the black wire is the kill (shut-off) wire and the red wire is the charging circuit wire. Again, you have no starter solenoid (as someone suggested previously), Toro simply uses the key (ignition) switch as the solenoid. Where the black wire terminal is (near the carburetor), this is merely a junction point on your new engine. You will run a wire from the interlock module to this point (junction) for the ability to shut (kill) the engine down, as indicated in the schematic. Again, your old white wire is now red and your old red wire is now black, on the new engine.

 
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07-05-07, 03:47 AM   #23  
OK well I ordered a starter switch about 3 weeks ago takes 2-3 days priority mail Has not arrived yet so In the meanwhile is there anyway to start it without a switch.

 
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07-05-07, 03:27 PM   #24  
Ok went over there today. got the new(used) engine mounted. Wired up the starter but thats as far as I got as I need to splice the white wire and red wire longer so they can reach. also the white wire broke off from the fuse so I need to fix that. Also there are for wires for the switch it looks like. 2 thick red and white. and 2 small red and white. What wire is which. In the diagram there not that color there red grey red white. this was a wireing harness so it looks like it was taken apart so this engine could work.

 
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07-06-07, 02:34 PM   #25  
Someone apparently has changed out the gray wire for a red wire, it appears. One heavy red wire will go from the "B" terminal on the key (ignition) switch to the positive post of the battery, the other heavy red wire will go from the "S" terminal on the key switch to the starter motor (on the engine) terminal post. The red wire on the new engine (from under the flywheel) will go to the "B" terminal on the key switch and must be fused using a standard inline fuse holder available at any automotive store. There is no recommendation or indication of the fuse rating but either a 7.5Amp or 10Amp should do the trick. And, finally, the black wire from the new engine will splice into the red wire from the interlock module that does not go to the key switch. In other words, you should have two red pigtails from the module with one running to the "M" terminal on the key switch and the other splicing into the kill wire (black) from the new engine. Phew, let us know the outcome.

 
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07-06-07, 07:59 PM   #26  
the fuse is there just the wire it connects to broke off the fuses.so that will need to be fixed. I will print out what you said so I can take it with me and follow it. Im waiting on another switch sense the last one never showed .

 
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07-07-07, 03:47 AM   #27  
If you want, I can advise you on how to wire in a new(er) style starting setup with a keyswitch/solenoid setup using common parts that should be available immediately at most any small engine shop...to save you having to wait for the Toro switch to come in. But, you may be committed to buying the Toro part and I wouldn't want the dealer you ordered it from to be stuck with it but perhaps they'll understand that you've been waiting a while and would understand if you decided to cancel the order. And, perhaps, you can reciprocate by purchasing the newer style parts from them, if they have such. Did you order the part from a local dealer?

 
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07-07-07, 04:54 AM   #28  
no unfortonitly. I ordered it from a guy in the lawnmower business who I met on ebay.never had a problem before. this time I orderd the new one from a online distributer and will receive a email when it has shipped.(within 5 buiness days.)

 
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07-10-07, 08:02 PM   #29  
Oh I forgot to say. The new (used) engine. the bolt hole in the shaft for the pully bolt is bigger then the old one. Same model number but differnt type and code number. Should I be worred.I could just go the hardware store pickup a bolt and cross thread it if needed.I could drill the hole in the new pully bigger if its to small for the new bolt. Would this cause any problems.

 
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07-11-07, 03:17 AM   #30  
The larger thread should pose no problem. Be sure to purchase a grade 8 bolt from your local hardware store though and yes, you will need to drill (bore) out the center of the pulley to accomodate the larger bolt but this, too, will present no trouble. Just be sure to drill the exact size of the bolt used.

 
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07-16-07, 07:45 PM   #31  
I want to correct a earler post. theres 2 thick wires 1 red one white. and to normal size red and white. so the heavy red goes to the B on the switch. the heavy white(grey maby just faded) goes to the S on the switch and what about the the normal red and white. theres 3 spades. S B M

 
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07-17-07, 02:14 AM   #32  
Normal red and normal white? I thought you said earlier that you have a small gauge red and a small gauge black coming from the engine, is this true? So now where does the small gauge white wire come in to play? Trace this wire and tell me where it originates from.

 
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07-17-07, 03:24 AM   #33  
theres 4 wires. a heavy gauge red wire and a heavy gauge white/gray wire.then theres a small gauge red wire and small gauge white wire.The small white wire has the fuse.
so acording to the diagram the heavy gauge red wire goes to B along with the small white wire with the fuse.The heavy gauge white/grey wire goes to S and the small red wire goes to M

 
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07-17-07, 03:40 PM   #34  
1 step forward 2 steps back

OK Went over there installed the switch filled the engine with oil and gas fresh plug. Fired up but runs rough so I will need to adjust the carb. theres one screw I can see and thats the the main jet/float bowl bolt and that is adjustable. so what do I set that at.Also theres a rubber boot that goes from the carb to the valve cover thats cracked at the carb so its leaking gas. what is this part called and part number so I can order it. again model 252707 type 0638 briggs 11HP. so at least it runs

 
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07-17-07, 06:10 PM   #35  
Whoa, whoa, whoa, don't run this again until we're clear on the wiring setup!!! I was sure you indicated you now have one small red and one small black from the new engine. Is this true? Did you then splice original colored wires to the new engine's wires thereby "changing" the colors and this is what you're referring to... the spliced colors? Please tell me the colors of the wires coming from the new engine!!! The carburetor should have two fuel adjustment screws, one on the bottom of the bowl (main adjusting needle) and one on the top of the carb exactly opposite the main needle, being the idle fuel circuit needle. Start with the main needle at 1 3/4 turns out from seated and the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns out from seated. You will likely need to fine tune from here but this is a good place to start. The rubber boot is the crankcase breather tube and if you have fuel pouring out of this then you have a carburetor in need of removal, soaking, cleaning and reconditioning with a Briggs rebuild kit and possibly a float. Are you sure the fluid from the breather tube is fuel and not oil? Does the engine oil smell like gasoline? The boot is part number 692253, the kit is part number 394698 and the float is part number 299707.

 
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07-17-07, 07:40 PM   #36  
Posted By: puey61 Whoa, whoa, whoa, don't run this again until we're clear on the wiring setup!!! I was sure you indicated you now have one small red and one small black from the new engine. Is this true? Did you then splice original colored wires to the new engine's wires thereby "changing" the colors and this is what you're referring to... the spliced colors? Please tell me the colors of the wires coming from the new engine!!! The carburetor should have two fuel adjustment screws, one on the bottom of the bowl (main adjusting needle) and one on the top of the carb exactly opposite the main needle, being the idle fuel circuit needle. Start with the main needle at 1 3/4 turns out from seated and the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns out from seated. You will likely need to fine tune from here but this is a good place to start. The rubber boot is the crankcase breather tube and if you have fuel pouring out of this then you have a carburetor in need of removal, soaking, cleaning and reconditioning with a Briggs rebuild kit and possibly a float. Are you sure the fluid from the breather tube is fuel and not oil? Does the engine oil smell like gasoline? The boot is part number 692253, the kit is part number 394698 and the float is part number 299707.
the wireing for the engine is red for the alternator and black for the kill. black to red and white to red. all wires are hooked up correctly and it runs when started. there were 4 wires for the switch. 1 thick red 1 thick grey 1 small red and 1 small white. everything is hooked up correctly according to the diagram. yes the engine did start and run but it runs rough. I will adjust the carb first before deciding about rebuilding.yes gas was coming out of the cracked breather tube.as for the carb kit theres no way i can rebuild this thing too many parts.
also could the engine run rough because theres no load. the pulley is not on so its not turning the blade or transmission

 
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07-18-07, 04:55 AM   #37  
The engine can run rough without a load but if you get the adjustments right (if the carburetor condition allows) then it won't matter if you have a load or not. If you are not able or willing to service the caburetor and, however, you should, you'd better bring the carburetor to a service shop that will do this for you. But, heck, you've come this far so far, what's a simple carburetor reconditioning? You can do it, we'll help you through it.

 
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07-18-07, 12:58 PM   #38  
Ok got the new breather tube. I will order the new drive pulley and when that comes go over and work on the engine. I will adjust the carb first and see if it runs any better.

 
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07-19-07, 09:16 PM   #39  
If gas is coming out of the breather tube, no amount of adjusting will fix it. The needle is not seating and shutting off the gas in the carb. Pull the bowl off and see what's there...could just be some loose debris floating around.


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07-19-07, 09:34 PM   #40  
Posted By: cheese If gas is coming out of the breather tube, no amount of adjusting will fix it. The needle is not seating and shutting off the gas in the carb. Pull the bowl off and see what's there...could just be some loose debris floating around.
Ok when i get a chance I will look at it. if needed will take the carb off and take it to a repair shop see if it can be fixed if not then I will have to buy a new one

 
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