Toro trimmer

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  #1  
Old 06-03-07, 02:06 PM
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Toro trimmer

Hi there all,

I am a US Army Mechanic\Shade Tree Mechanic\etc.

I can't seem to fine the paperwork for my Toro String Trimmer and subsequently can find info (without spending $26.00 on a manual) on carburator adjustment.

I have been struggling with this thing for some years now (yes years) running it in half choked, starting it with full choke even when its already warm because it simply won't start anyother way.

Model number is 51903. Engine displacement is 31 CC. When it works it is a brute which is why it still resides here. Can someone give me a pointer or two on setting this cab up? Presently I believe I have really messed the adjustment up as it won't start but on full choke and bogs under load.

If this were a humv I could fix it fast or an M60 A1 but it aint. Hope someone can assist.

Steve
 
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  #2  
Old 06-04-07, 06:41 PM
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Try this link to Toro's lookup utility, it may help.

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?open=512&objID=214&PageID=0&cached=true&mode=2&userID=19461 (copy and paste this link)

Generally, the initial settings for the carb will be 1 1/4 turns out from seated on each needle ("L" and "H"). Bear in mind that this is a unit manufactured by Ryobi for Toro and that it will have either a Zama or a Walbro carburetor and you can find rebuild kits for either at most small engine/outdoor power equipment shops. You also will likely need a new carb mounting gasket along with the rebuild kit and I recommend installing new fuel/primer lines and a new fuel filter.
 
  #3  
Old 06-04-07, 10:47 PM
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In case they aren't marked, the H screw is the one of two that is closest to the air filter. Fine tune this screw with the engine at full throttle. The L screw should be adjusted with the engine at idle.
 
  #4  
Old 06-05-07, 04:02 PM
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Smile Toro Trimmer

Thanks for the assistance. Does anyone want a Toro trimmer? I'm done with it. I can't stand it. I have blisters on my left hand from trying to start this thing. I m so done with it.

Hehehe

Steve
 
  #5  
Old 06-05-07, 08:26 PM
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hmmm, I know the feeling. Low compression maybe? (wiped cylinder and piston)

I've been known to sling a trimmer or two against a tree pretty hard. Usually because of a cascade of events rather than one issue, but still...it's aggravating. It's theraputic to watch those cheap little plastic parts go flying everywhere though, hehe.
 
  #6  
Old 06-06-07, 03:57 PM
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Talking Toro Trimmer

Ya I threw this thing yesterday but unfortunately it remains in one piece unlike my fingers. Compression is good. Guessing the cylinder and piston are fine since the damb thing never runs long enough to hurt anything. heheh

I spent about an hour yesterday puting th GD spring back in with a new rope pull. I was aware of some damage to the plastic rope pull fly wheel teeth. What a-hole makes a part like that out of plastic anyway.

So when looking for a new trimmer what brand do you recommend? hehehe
I'm serious!!!! hehehe
 
  #7  
Old 06-06-07, 04:27 PM
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If you are the type to maintain your lawn equipment get a Stihl or Echo they will last for years. I you use your equipment and just throw it in the shed or garage until it quits go to Walmart and get a $59.00 Weedeater brand it will give you good service for a season or two then throw it away and buy another. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #8  
Old 06-06-07, 09:39 PM
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I'll second that. Stihl and Echo. Husquvarna is good too, but you have to watch out with them. Get the high-end units and you're good. The low end stuff is the same as the wallyworld stuff.

I think if I were buying today, I'd get an Echo.
 
  #9  
Old 06-07-07, 06:41 PM
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Talking Toro Trimmer

Thanks guys,

I started to do some research and got a wake up call. In order to equal the CC's (31) i am into 300+ range. WOW! Is my Toro that high end? The echos don;t have pricing which even more scary cause you know wha that means..........house payment. I looked at husqvarna and again there were no prices but im familure with husqy and they are likely even more expensive. Especially when I look in the same power range.

Really was my Toro that decsent?

If so boy my blisters are looking less painful.


hehehe
 
  #10  
Old 06-07-07, 07:15 PM
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No, you do not need a 31cc Echo or Stihl trimmer to equal your Toro trimmer. Your unit was basically a Ryobi rebagded with the Toro name.

Some of the lesser designed units make up for power with displacement rather then engineering. A 21cc Echo, Stihl, Shindaiwa, Maruyama, etc brand trimmer will perform on par with your old Toro. Possibly even better since any of these brands should start easy and run good for you....

You should be able to get a comparable curved shaft unit for around $160.00 and a straight shaft unit for around $220.00. A premium brand trimmer will have a ported engine and higher compression ratio then a lower end reed valve design.
 
  #11  
Old 06-07-07, 07:20 PM
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You are basing a lot on cc. which has something to do with power but maybe not as much as you think, were not talking diesel now. The high dollar items have a full crankshaft where as the the low end trimmers use the halfcrank engines(if your not familiar it's like a 1 pedal bicycle). The application of use is more important than the cc., unless your like me and just want(as Tim Allen said "More Power"). Your choices are pretty much go to a dealer for Stihl, Shindiawa, Redmax and High end Husky or big box store for Echo, Ryobi, Troybilt, etc. which are all MTDproducts or Poulan,Weedeater and Craftsman which are Electrolux. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #12  
Old 06-07-07, 07:27 PM
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Geogrubb... You're saying MTD makes Echo?
 
  #13  
Old 06-07-07, 08:35 PM
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MTD does not make Echo.

CCs aren't as important as you think. The low end manufacturers have made a lot of trimmers at and above 30ccs for marketing purposes. They are usually sloppy compared to the higher quality engines even with less displacement.

To tell if the engine has a full crankshaft, look at the pull rope. If the pull rope is in front of the engine between the engine and shaft, it's a cheap engine. If the pull rope is at the back end of the engine, at the end of the trimmer, it's a good one. That's a good rule of thumb to go by when buying a trimmer.
 
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