Lawn tractor problem

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  #1  
Old 06-11-07, 02:32 AM
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Lawn tractor problem

I have a 42" 17 HP Yard Machines lawn tractor. I rolled my tractor over loading it onto my truck. A lot of things got bent up. One of the two safty switches, the one just behind the motor that is engaged when you push the clutch in to start the tractor got pushed back. I had to stand on the clutch in order to start the mower. I tried bending it back into place. Now it doesn't seem to work at all. Does anyone know how to bypass that switch. It looks like about six wires going into it. It has a button on the bottom that the clutch pedal hits to depress the button. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 06-11-07, 06:19 AM
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You could put a zip tie or hose clamp around the switch, permanently engaging the switch. But I don't think you'll get much support from the moderators here.
 
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Old 06-11-07, 07:10 AM
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[quote author=msidan]You could put a zip tie or hose clamp around the switch, permanently engaging the switch. But I don't think you'll get much support from the moderators here.[/quote]

Probably due to the fact that it opens the door for liability, injury and even death! Disabling the clutch safety switch also disables the operator present safety switch.

Without pictures or more information on what is damaged, I think it would be hard to describe a repair.
If model of the mower is posted drawings can be accessed help determine a proper repair.
 
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Old 06-11-07, 09:25 AM
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Actually, of all the safety switches, you should have the clutch switch. Just to prevent some one from starting it in gear like some idiot did with mine. The only switch I don't like is the seat switch, just so I can leave the engine running if I have to get up for a minute, or sometimes I like to stand up when mowing in tall grass so I can get a better view to watch out for foreign objects.
 
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Old 06-12-07, 02:19 AM
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Thanks for your feedback. The model number is 13AK6606352. I am aware of the risks involved. Normaly I would not bypass the switch. However, the metal piece on the frame that holds the switch is broke off. It got bent durring the role and when I tried to bend it back into possistion it snaped. And being that no one else uses the tractor, I would like to remove it. The way it is now, I have to get off the tractor, reach inside the motor housing and depress the switch while turning the key. Now the switch has finaly died. I have always store the tractor in my garage in neutral so I can push it around. I have used it for years and depressing the clutch has become a habbet. I am not worried about forgeting to depress the clutch when starting the tractor. So if anyone knows which wires I can connect to make it work, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 06-12-07, 06:00 AM
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If any type of bypass must be used I would use the zip/cable tie method already mentioned. It can be semi permanent without making a permanent change to the equipment. It also has a chance to "fail" which is not a bad thing in this case.
People who get injured from such bypassed switches, almost never had a hand in the bypass, let alone knowledge of such.
The model number you posted does not appear to be correct
 
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Old 06-12-07, 10:52 AM
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Again, thnx for the help.

Sorry about the seriel number. I will check it when I get home and repost the correct number.

I would try the zip tie idea, which I thought was very good, or the reweld idea. However, the switch itself no longer functions.

I don't want to spend twenty bucks for a switch, ten dollars for shipping, and fifty dollars to have someone weld it, all for a switch that I dont even want on my tractor.

I know it is a hole issue of safety. I admit that safety is important. However, this was a post for help on removing an electrical switch and not a discution on safety. I have spent many hours reading posts just like this that somehow got off topic and turned into a debate on safety.

Please, if anyone knows which wires I need to cross, let me know. I would appreciate your feedback.
 
  #8  
Old 06-12-07, 11:15 AM
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On some switches you can cross the two wires going to it although newer tractor switches are designed to prevent this.
 
  #9  
Old 06-12-07, 12:53 PM
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Its not as simple as connect x and y...and will depend on your particular model what x and y even are. There is not one set standard. This switch also will likely tie into two other safety switches for the PTO and Operator present.
Without the correct Model and serial numbers, I can not access any documentation which may or may not even include a wiring diagram or schematic.
 
  #10  
Old 06-13-07, 04:53 AM
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Ok guys. Sorry for the error. Here is the correct model and serial numbers:
Model 13ak660g352
Serial 1c188b80123

The engine is a briggs and stratton 17 hp twin
Engine Model 42a707 type 2238 e1

Thanks again
 
  #11  
Old 06-13-07, 12:21 PM
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Here is a link to a parts manual which does have wiring harness diagram. Page 35 for Twin Briggs.
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/DocGetter?doc=770-0893a.pdf

It is only a diagram and not a schematic so without having access to the machine with a meter I can't verify or reccomend anything I think you want to do.
Part number for the switch is 725-1657A. The switch for the PTO/Blade engage is the same as the clutch. You could ohm it out and find out what wires would do what....
The switch is only 12 bucks or so and should be available locally.
Without a schematic or having my hands on, I am not sure how your seat switch plays into it. Since this is a simple spring that opens when operator is present.
I would encourage you once you have completed what ever it is, to test the mower in some fashion to at least know that if the operator is knocked off the mower with the blades engaged, tractor in gear, will it continue on its merry way....?
 
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