Kohler replacement for Sears Rider

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  #1  
Old 06-24-07, 01:10 PM
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Kohler replacement for Sears Rider

Sears Rider 917.256610
Kohler CV15s-41525
I am guessing the rod cap let go or similar and am looking for replacement options.
Direct replacement price is 1k or so. In my opinion not worth it for the mower. Are there any other engine options I could pursue, rebuild costs?

TIA
 
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Old 06-24-07, 02:13 PM
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That's typical and common with box store, lawn tractor class mowers. If, by means of a tear down and inspection and reasonable repair, you can service this engine for a relatively decent cost, you may opt to do this. Otherwise, be on the lookout for: A- A good used, compatible engine. B- A reasonably priced replacement (new) engine, or. C- Replace the entire machine. I'd say the tear down route is the first step, if you are able to perform the work yourself, that is. Because if you can't then it may not be worth paying a shop to find out that you need option C.
 
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Old 06-24-07, 03:31 PM
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I have been working on mowers on and off for more than thirty years. I would suggest that you obtain a .010 over rebuild kit. Tear down the engine and take it to a reliable machine shop that has experience with small engines and have the crank turned and the cylinder bored. Then you can reassemble your engine and have a like new one for much less than the cost of a replacement engine, It is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. Just think of it as a small version of an automobile engine, the basics are the same.
 
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Old 06-24-07, 04:32 PM
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What jeff194307 suggested may be viable but you need to do a complete, thorough inspection before you automatically order an oversized piston and rings as well as an undersized connecting rod. Don't assume that the bore can be resized to a minimum spec (which is .25mm, not .010" as he indicated). You can purchase either a .25mm or .50mm oversized piston and rings as well as a .25mm undersized rod. Bear in mind that if you determine, by accurate measurements, that you can (and need to) bore and turn then you need to consider the costs associated with such. Check with your local hot rod shop for prices to do such with a single cylinder engine and then factor in the costs of the Kohler parts with your local Kohler shop.
 
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Old 06-24-07, 08:27 PM
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You might want to consider a short block 12 522 18 it runs around $645.00 still somewhat expensive but less then a grand. A short block will be a new engine block and the internals, you will take your cylinder head, carburetor, magneto, starter etc. off of your old engine and install on the new block.

Another alternative to consider is using a Briggs and Stratton engine to re-power your mower, they are generally less expensive then Kohler engines.
 
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Old 06-24-07, 08:27 PM
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I am figuring labor into the rebuild or overhaul. 40/hr + parts and machine work.
The mower is somewhat less than the typical Sears/AYP at least that I see. This has an Electric PTO, Hydro drive and front blade attatchment. It also has a 46" deck. While its not in prime condition its certainly appears in one piece and mechanically sound less powerplant.
The reason for researching a replacement first, was to eliminate a likely needless teardown and inspection and the labor involved. I did not witness the failure but from what little I was told there were several attempts to start and or diagnose the problem. I might consider a rebuild worth it on a running worn out engine but not a broke one on this type of equipment.

I was unable to find a dimension on the shaft in the Kohler manual. I think it should be 1" x 3.15 This would help me determine a suitable used replacement. I have a couple Briggs engines. Intek Single 14hp and a Lhead 18hp twin.
If you know of the specs for the shaft or where I might find them, and any other details I might need for a drop in replacment, I would be much obliged.

Thx for your time.
 
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Old 06-24-07, 08:32 PM
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Hi 30yr,
Short block would be an option. I consider that the same as the engine. I am the mechanic on this project neighbor is the owner.
I didn't find see any prices that reasonable that I recall. Still I think his ball park was closer to 500.00 and is why I was wandering about a used engine.
Just want to make sure all will line up and work. I can redo electrical, fuel and the little things, but I dont want no jerry rigged spacer blocked up thingy when I am done.

Thx for the reply
 
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Old 06-24-07, 08:53 PM
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1252218 CV15 SHORT BLOCK $562.17

The price I quoted before was from Sears, I found it on the web for the price listed above, but I am not sure what the shipping would run. You might be able to find it for less if you shop around the net some.
 
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Old 06-25-07, 02:15 AM
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If you look deep enough and in the right places, you can find new, replacement engines on the web in the neighborhood of the price your neighbor is looking at spending. Small Engine Warehouse is one of the many to check out and typically the crankshaft dimensions will be 1" diameter by 3 5/32" long but by all means measure yours to confirm. The only other difference will be the charging system and if indeed different you may need to modify your wiring hookups. I'd suggest either a Kohler Command engine or a Briggs & Stratton (either a Vanguard or IC OHV).
 
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Old 06-25-07, 06:58 AM
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Thanks for all the replies.
I think I at least have a couple options and figures to present, then I guess its just up to the banker

I still have not really had my MAIN question answered, or perhaps I missed it or misunderstood...
Are there more than one dimension for shaft length, dia.? A few different...? I dont want to have to mic and caliper every engine I may consider using. I would think that this spec should be listed in the manual...?
If it does indeed have to be measured, where is this dimension measured exactly? Is there anything different to accomadate the Electric Clutch for PTO?
 
  #11  
Old 06-25-07, 08:02 AM
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Most large frame riding mowers have the same crankshaft set up, but if you are looking to repower with a different brand of engine or even just a different size engine you should always check the crankshaft specs before purchasing a replacement or you might end up doing extra work in order to make it work. Also be aware of things like fuel pumps, exhaust, and electrical systems that may not bolt right up to existing devices, and may require a little extra work to get it going correctly.
 
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Old 06-25-07, 08:47 AM
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I had thought of it but forgot to check until now, this engine does have a fuel pump and the fuel tank is rear mounted so I think any replacement will also need to have a fuel pump. Electrical is no problem to redo and exhaust is not too critical. This frame appears to have plenty of room for modification if needed.
The need for a fuel pump will narrow the field I think, I don't recall seeing single Briggs with fuel pumps.
 
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