honda lawn mower hrt216tda back fires and quit

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  #1  
Old 07-10-07, 07:51 PM
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Red face honda lawn mower hrt216tda back fires and quit

help my honda lawn mower hrt216tda, i hit a rock while mowing, after that will run for 3 minutes and quit can start and run for few minutes will die with high rpm and with load , checked everything can't find anything wrong any suggestion. thanks

abel28
 
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  #2  
Old 07-10-07, 08:11 PM
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Check the flywheel key, even though they are steel, I have seen them shear.
 
  #3  
Old 07-11-07, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
Check the flywheel key, even though they are steel, I have seen them shear.
i removed the flywheel, the key is okey, i did not checked the pto side, do you think it's in there?
thanks, abel
 
  #4  
Old 07-11-07, 04:15 PM
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The blade adapter might be a little loose, but it should not cause the engine to die after a short run time.

Does the mower seem to vibrate now when running?
 
  #5  
Old 07-11-07, 04:34 PM
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I'm thinking that the fact that you struck an object and the running issue is purely coincidental, or the shock somehow affected the ignition coil. Lets find out if you have an ignition problem or a likely carburetor issue. Have a spare spark plug in your pocket, run the mower until the problem surfaces, immediately remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug and place the spark plug in your pocket in the spark plug wire, rest the plug on a metal part of the engine (for grounding purposes), crank the engine over and inspect for spark at the spark plug gap. Post back with the test results.
 
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Old 07-13-07, 12:16 AM
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Put a new plug in it. I don't know why, but these hondas do this with a bad plug. You can pull the plug and check for spark, and all will look good. Change the plug anyway.

If that doesn't solve the problem, then proceed to check other things, but change the plug first. (voice of experience)
 
  #7  
Old 07-13-07, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
The blade adapter might be a little loose, but it should not cause the engine to die after a short run time.

Does the mower seem to vibrate now when running?
yes, especially at top rpm, then dies.

thanks abel28
 
  #8  
Old 07-13-07, 05:35 PM
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You may have bent the crankshaft, but like puey suggested I also think this may be coincidence. Try a new plug like cheese suggested and see if that makes any difference. If the shaft is bent then the only way to fix it would be to replace the crankshaft. You can check the shaft by removing the spark plug and tilt the mower up and have someone pull the starter rope. Observe the end of the shaft and see if you notice any wobble, if you do then the crankshaft is bent.

Be sure to keep your hands and feet and anything else out from underneath the mower when you are checking the crankshaft. Don't want to cut anything off....
 
  #9  
Old 07-14-07, 05:11 AM
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Or maybe remove plug wire and raise mower so you can see under it. Pick a reference point on the deck/frame and turn the blade by hand. If one side of the blade is farther away from the reference point than the other, you have a bent blade or crank. The keys are made to shear in case you hit and object in order to protect the crankshaft. Make sure the key is not distorted. They do not have to shear to get the engine a little out of time. Check the key for any stress marks. If the mower vibrates now, does not sound good.

Some of you more learned folks feel free to correct me if I say something idiotic. Hehhe, in fact, please do!
 
  #10  
Old 07-15-07, 11:11 AM
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i bought repair manual for my mower, i followed all the instructions in checking and readjustment. finally when i got to governor adjustment , and readjusted the full throtle and decrease the rpm the mower did not die , kept on running, it's okey now. thanks everybody for your help

abel28
 
  #11  
Old 07-16-07, 02:30 AM
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If all you did was adjust the governor static pre-load adjustment, I don't understand why this lost adjustment. Generally, a factory setting will last the lifetime of the engine.
 
  #12  
Old 07-16-07, 06:05 PM
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that's what i thought also , i was gonna tear down the engine but i thought twice because if i do that and found nothing damaged then i'll be wasting my time and effort. maybe when i struck a rock threw off the adjustment. i removed the governor shaft lever temporarily and closed the throttle valve before starting. i started the engine then open the throttle manually slowly to full throttle the rpm shoot up, i realized maybe just decrease the rpm at full throttle accdg. to the manual, and it did.
 
  #13  
Old 07-16-07, 06:19 PM
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Aha, you've tampered with the static adjusment by loosening/removing the governor arm. You need to adjust this properly to ensure correct governor operation. With all governor/throttle linkages in place loosen the governor arm nut, manually hold the throttle shaft (on the carburetor) at WOT (wide open throttle) (this in turn moves the linkage to the governor arm), rotate the governor shaft (coming out of the engine) in the same direction that is required to move the linkage to full throttle position, retighten the governor arm nut while holding the arm and shaft in this position. In other words, if the linkage has to move to the right for full throttle then the shaft must be rotated clockwise (to the right).
 
  #14  
Old 07-16-07, 07:01 PM
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i followed the manual in the adjustments, the reason i removed the governor shaft lever because i have suspected the governor, it killed the engine if the rpm is too high, i decreased the rpm. this is the manual instructions for throttle cable adjustment: 1. move the throttle to FAST. check the clearance between the choke arm and control lever. the control lever should just contact, but not move, the choke arm. 2. if necessary, loosen the throttle cable clamp to achieve the proper position. 3. start the engine, let it warm up, then check the engine speed with the throttle set to fast. ENGINE SPEED: 2,950 ~ 3,100 RPM 4. IF THE ENGINE SPEED IS NOT WITHIN SPECIFICATION, bend the governor spring arm left (increases engine speed) or right (decraeses engine speed) very slightly as needed. i did not tampered with adjustments. i hope this will clear every thing.
 
  #15  
Old 07-16-07, 07:16 PM
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Okay, you apparently only adjusted the throttle control adjustment for full throttle and full choke, not the governor shaft, as you, I believe, mistakenly called it. The governor shaft protrudes out of the engine to the right of the speed control bracket and the governor arm attaches to the governor shaft and has the link attached to it that goes to the carburetor throttle shaft. Based on your trouble I think you should check the static adjustment of the governor shaft. Refer to my previous post for instructions on adjusting this. If you have this adjusted correctly and the throttle shaft is not froze/seized/binding in the carburetor body then it is safe to assume that the internal governor is faulty and thus causing the engine to race.
 
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