Briggs 3.5hp oil seal replacement


Old 08-10-07, 12:14 PM
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Briggs 3.5hp oil seal replacement

I'm trying to replace the lower oil seal (p/n 391483) on my 1984 Briggs and Stratton 3.5hp engine (Model: 94908, Type: 5911-02, Code: 84112704). I've looked at the relevant threads on this site and think I understand how to go about it. I particularly liked how one correspondent drilled two holes into the seal so that it could be pulled out with machine screws. However, I can't get past the first step, which is to remove the hexaganol blade assembly, in spite of heating it with a blowtorch and trying to sort of reverse hammer it out. I'd appreciate any advice on ways of doing this.
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Old 08-10-07, 12:47 PM
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In this case the Model, Type and Code don't help a lot, the engine from B&S has nothing on it since they don't know what the engine is going to be used for during the mfg process, it's the next guy who decides what application the engine is going to be used for. You will probably find it necessary to use a puller. The B&S site shows it as having a keyed shaft so don't try to twist it off. Have a good one. Geo
Old 08-10-07, 12:59 PM
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If I'm understanding correctly,Your having trouble getting the blade adpeter off??It's a little time comsuming But the best way that I have found if you don't have the use of a torch is to put a block of steel under the adpeter and with a fairly large hammer hit on the back side of the adpeter,making the Vibration and shock drive it off.Then you can drive a screwdriver into the seal right up against the crankshaft and pry it out.
Old 08-10-07, 04:35 PM
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I suggest not driving anything against the crankshaft because you risk scratching it, which would cause it to leak continually. You can use a seal puller, or do the drill method you mentioned, but be careful to not scratch the crankshaft, or drill into anything beyond the seal.
Old 08-10-07, 05:13 PM
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What is the make and model# of the mower?
Old 08-10-07, 11:11 PM
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The engine is on an 18" rotary Mountfield Major M4 push mower, Type: 801, 8011985355. The problem with hitting the back of the adapter with a hammer is that there's not much room to get a good hit. geogrubb mentions pullers, which should be worth a try.
Old 08-13-07, 04:08 AM
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Apply steady pressure on the torque screw of the puller and then heat the blade adapter. It should break free and you should then be homefree to tighten the puller screw and bring the adapter home. Be sure to use anti-seize upon reassembly on the crank and adapter and bolt threads.
Old 08-13-07, 07:00 AM
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Thanks, that's helped a lot. Just got to find the tools now.

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