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Huskee/ MTD Riding mower w/ 20 hp Briggs- Blowing smoke


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08-30-07, 05:34 AM   #1  
Huskee/ MTD Riding mower w/ 20 hp Briggs- Blowing smoke

Hi there. I am a Nursing student, and my wife and I just bought our first home, which came with about a half acre lawn, most of which is on an incline. At first, I thought, Heck, I can mow this with a pushmower, No Problem! But after a few 2 1/2 hour mow sessions in 100 degree heat, I decided A riding mower would make my life alot easier. To make a long story a little longer, I bought a refrigerator that came with a FREE riding mower, the afore-mentioned Huskee. It only needed a new battery and a new rear wheel, the lady told me, So I Bought this fridge, which doesnt fit in my kitchen and is now for sale, and convinced my buddy that after a long day at work, he would like to help me move this Gigantic Machine. (It has a 50" cut deck).

Well, anyway, I got it home, replaced the battery, took the rear tire in and got it patched. The machine had been severely abused, as attested to by the thick layer of oily dirt and grass that had accumulated all over its innards and underbelly, and the sad state of the cutting blades, which are about as sharp as a pillowcase full of marshmallows. I decided to take the body off so that I could get a better look at the engine, and after much swearing at the designers and head scratching, succeeded. So I cleaned her up pretty good with a toothbrush, hooked the monstrous deck back up, tested to see if the alternator was good, and got 'er going. Did a pretty good job mowing the lawn even with the dull blades, but here, finally, is the reason that I am writing, what may turn out to be my first novel, on this forum.

There is an ungodly amount of white-ish smoke issuing from the exhaust on this thing, which I will never for the life of me figure out why is on the very front of the mower. I wound up having to wear a gas mask while I mowed the lawn, and luckily, I keep one at hand. There is also a tapping sound in the engine, and oil seemed to be accumulating around the engine end of the rubber tubing that connects the engine to the air intake. You'll have to forgive my ignorance of the nomenclature of the various parts of engines, small or otherwise. Its been many years since I had small engine repair in High School, and now I wish I had been paying a little more attention.

So here, at last, is my question: How do I determine what the cause of this smoke can be, and more generally, How hard would it be for a mechanically inclined, though inexperienced, person as myself to rebuild an engine such as this? Or, if it is beyond my capabilities, how much money does it generally cost to have a small engine rebuilt? I know this is the worst case scenario, barring that the engine is completely shot, but I'd much rather save this one from a landfill or scrap-yard than buy a new mower at Lowes, which I cannot afford anyway. But starting from where I am, what is the first step? If anyone has made it this far into my post, I applaud you. Or, I suggest that you try and get out more, because life is too short to spend reading dribble such that I have posted. In any case, I give thanks in advance for any and all advice that I may receive on this issue.

 
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08-30-07, 05:47 PM   #2  
White smoke indicates fuel in the oil. White-ish smoke may actually be blue and then be oil-only smoke. White makes sense in your case. Pull out the dipstick and smell the oil. Does it smell like gasoline is mixed in with it? Is the oil level overfilled? I belive you will have gasoline in the oil and such will be caused by a faulty inlet needle & seat or a faulty float (if brass, not plastic) in the carburetor. Check your oil condition and post back with this as well as the engine model, type and code numbers - found either on the blower shroud or one of the rocker (valve) covers. If you, indeed, have fuel in the oil then you will need to remove, soak and recondition the carburetor using a Briggs rebuild kit. Boy, I hope I find a truck with a free house.

 
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08-30-07, 07:36 PM   #3  
Funny, It didn't Look Bluish...

Actually, my wife who had been watching me roaring around the lawn on this half dis-assembled tractor has been telling me that the smoke was indeed "bluish". She took some pics, which I wish I could post here to prove that I wasn't kidding about the gas mask, but also might prove useful in determining the true hue of the smoke in question. I will post the model #s tomorrow, and give the oil a whiff...I checked the level before running my test-mow, but havent yet checked to see how much was burned up in the process. Oh, and about that free house, be careful what you wish for, because a house that is in the condition that the mower seems to be in....well, I just bought one, and I'll just say Its alot more than I bargained for. Thanks....

 
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08-31-07, 02:08 AM   #4  
Of course not knowing the life history of the engine you may have a toasted engine but it may be, "simply", a blown head gasket. If even one of the two head gaskets has a breach in the area of the gasket between the combustion chamber and the valve train chamber then you will get a situation such that you have. A compression test should help determine which cylinder, if either, is to blame.

 
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08-31-07, 06:56 PM   #5  
Gas in the Oil? ...Oil?, What Oil?

Well, I checked the oil level in the mower after having used it that one time, and to my horror, it was bone dry. I checked it right before using it, and it was filled right to the full line. That would explain why the tappity noise was getting progressively louder as I mowed. I smelled in the... oil hole? is that what you would call that? Surely not! Anyway, It smells like there is indeed gas in with the oil. I don't have a compression tester, so I need to ask around to find one to borrow, or perhaps buy, if they're inexpensive.

So the engine is a Briggs 20 HP twin, model# 460777, type 2276e1.

It didn't seem to be blowing too much oil....though there was a little around a black rubber tube that goes between the side of the engine to underneath the air intake...just burned it up, I guess.

thanks for your advice.

 
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09-02-07, 07:37 AM   #6  
I think you may have a well worn engine and you should then remove the two cylinder heads to have a look at the condition of each cylinder as well as the valve faces and valve seats. You may have two issues, one with burning oil and one with dumping fuel. Burning oil is indicated by the oil level being well below the full mark on the dipstick and dumping fuel as indicated by the fuel smell in the oil reservoir (sump). First, find yourself that compression tester and remove each spark plug and test each cylinder with the tester and post back with the results of each cylinder.

 
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09-04-07, 01:22 PM   #7  
Surprised it still runs....;-)

 
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09-05-07, 06:26 PM   #8  
Any results, yet, on the compression tests?

 
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09-07-07, 05:55 AM   #9  
Compression tester

Just got my hands on a tester... But have been busy trying to fix my dryer with no results. I will give it a try soon and report back. Do you know around what the pressure should be for an engine like this?

 
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09-07-07, 12:38 PM   #10  
110 or better - very good; 90-109 - good; 60-89 - fair; Under 60 - poor.

 
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09-11-07, 01:50 PM   #11  
Test Results

Ok, I tested the cylinders with these results: Right cylinder= 90 psi, Left cylinder= 92 psi. The plugs were both covered pretty good with soot. I turned it over before testing, after having added oil to bring the level back up. It did its blowing smoke thing, and when I went to recheck the oil level, there was smoke coming out of the oil resevoir. Then when I took out the first spark plug, there was also smoke coming out of its hole as well. So that s the results. What should I look at next? Oh, and Thank You Sooo much for taking the time to help me with this. You are very Kind!

 
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09-11-07, 02:31 PM   #12  
Compression is good so we need, still, be concerned with the smoking and the heavy oil consumption. Oil consumption first!At rest, in your garage, do you see any oil puddling under the mower in a days time? Two days time? With such good compression it would be hard to believe that the smoke is oil-only which is passing by the piston rings during running. My gut tells me you have an oil seal and/or sump related gasket leak along with a carburetor that is dumping fuel into the crankcase. Now, my only problem with the fuel-dumping-into-the-crankcase theory is the fact that this carburetor has an integral fuel pump and the fuel tank is likely lower than the carburetor and should therefore not dump fuel at rest other than the amount in the fuel bowl. And this amount is relatively miniscule in comparison to the amount of oil in the sump and shouldn't necessarily cause the oil sump to overfill the point that it will blow smoke upon running. So, any oil leaking during rest periods?

 
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09-12-07, 05:59 AM   #13  
oil

Doesnt seem to be any oil underneath after it has been sitting.

 
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09-18-07, 05:56 AM   #14  
Still no oil underneath.

 
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09-18-07, 11:56 PM   #15  
Open the oil tube and sniff the oil. Does it smell like gas?


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09-19-07, 07:29 PM   #16  
If you do indeed have fuel diluted oil as I think cheese may be guessing as well, it can cause the oil consumption. Once the oil is diluted with fuel it then can and usually will bypass the rings into the combustion chamber, as well as let the internal temp of the engine raise to a point where the oil will break down and essentially burn.
At any rate I would be more concerned with confirming and solving any fuel dumping.
In addition to cheese's ? does it start out smoking before the engine gets up to temp?

 
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09-20-07, 06:31 AM   #17  
Dumping

Yes, as stated earlier in this thread, the oil reservoir does smell a bit like gas. Also, when I got this thing, the former owner had put a piece of tape on the inside of the hood saying to use 10w40. I know this is not really the best choice for this type of engine, but I don't know if it would cause any fuel dumping. What would cause this? Is it merely a carb issue? The strange thing about it is, it actually runs pretty darn well, other than the whole billowing smoke thing. So it makes me think that the carb can't be too far off kilter.

 
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09-20-07, 11:43 AM   #18  
I'd say it's time to remove, soak and recondition the carburetor. If the integral fuel pump is a 3-screw pump cover then you will use Briggs carb kit 694056 and if it is a 4-screw pump then you use 693501, carb kit.

 
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09-20-07, 07:06 PM   #19  
I agree, and to add to that...I wouldn't use the 10w-40 oil. I reccomend using sae30. if you're going to be using the mower in temperatures under 40, you can use 10w-30, but I'd change to 30 when the weather warmed.


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09-21-07, 05:46 AM   #20  
Experience is the best teacher

OK, I'm ready for anything. What better way to learn about something than to do it. So, to rebuild the carburetor, obviously the first step is to get a kit. What kind of resources are available to guide me through the rebuild process? Does a kit come with some sort of instructions? I know that sounds like a stupid question, but I'm assuming theres enough difference from carb to carb that there should be some sort of manual to guide even an experienced person through the process.

 
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09-23-07, 06:07 AM   #21  
Dumb Question #2

Ok here's another stupid question.... How do I tell if the carb is a 3 screw or a 4 screw model? I'm assuming one has 3 screws in a prominent position, and the other, 4. Where do you recommend purchasing the kit from online? I typed in the part #s, and didnt have much luck....though I wasnt very persistent because I don't know which one I need. Thanks again for help.

 
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09-23-07, 08:31 PM   #22  
The fuel pump at the top front part of the carb will be held on by either 3 or 4 screws. This is the determining factor.

There is no step-by-step guide for building that carb to my knowledge. It's an easy carb, and self-explanatory. You'll see once you open it up. There really aren't that many parts. Open it on a clean surface and see what parts go where and replace the parts that come with the kit, and reassemble. Most of it will only go together one way anyway.


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09-24-07, 07:11 PM   #23  
model 460777 type 2276-E1 carb.

Here's a link to Briggs' Illustrated Parts List for that engine. There aren't any step-by-step directions on the rebuild, but it will tell you what kit you need and how the carburetor is assembled.. Thought it might help..

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/ipl...100/MS1101.pdf

 
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09-24-07, 09:11 PM   #24  
Thanks!

VERY helpful, thank you!

 
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