B & S governor assemblage

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  #1  
Old 09-12-07, 09:00 AM
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B & S governor assemblage

Model # 170402

Need a diagram of how the governor linkage is assembled.

I have the illustrated parts list but it's not an exploded view DOESN'T show how the it's assembled.

Thanks
Dorannj
 
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Old 09-12-07, 09:19 AM
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We also need the Type and Code numbers from the engine. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 09-12-07, 12:41 PM
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Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion?
 
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Old 09-16-07, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by puey61 View Post
Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion?
There are two solid links.
But after overhauling carberator with overhaul kit, the new part (bottom half of carb) has the remote choke linkage hole on the opposite side therefore that linkage cannot hook up as did previously.

But the choke handle can be operated manually.

so now there is only one solid link, which I figured out (I think?) links to the throttle linkage hole and the governor lever and then the spring connects to the tiny hole in the governor lever and then hole in the back of the governor plate therefore mving the throttle back and forth.

Assuming this is right (which I probably shouldn't do) Now....

I can't get the engine started. (I don't think its getting spark.)

I replaced plug, gapped plug. Made sure that the wires going to the Stop switch are connected and made sure th
 
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Old 09-16-07, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by puey61 View Post
Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion?
There are two solid links.
But after overhauling carberator with overhaul kit, the new part (bottom half of carb) has the remote choke linkage hole on the opposite side therefore that linkage cannot hook up as did previously.

But the choke handle can be operated manually.

so now there is only one solid link, which I figured out (I think?) links to the throttle linkage hole and the governor lever and then the spring connects to the tiny hole in the governor lever and then hole in the back of the governor plate therefore mving the throttle back and forth.

Assuming this is right (which I probably shouldn't do) Now....

I can't get the engine started. (I don't think its getting spark.)

I replaced plug, gapped plug. Made sure that the wires going to the Stop Switch were connected and made sure when the Control Switch is in the stop position it is making contact with the Stop Switch.

I know the engine has run and can run. ????

Help
 
  #6  
Old 09-16-07, 02:06 PM
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B&S governor

Originally Posted by geogrubb View Post
We also need the Type and Code numbers from the engine. Have a good one. Geo
Model: 170402 Type: 2334 Code: 84121909
 
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Old 09-16-07, 06:09 PM
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Again, I ask...Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion? The CHOKE control will not have a solid linkage, it may have had a remotely mounted control depending on the application but, generally, will not have any control related to such. The THROTTLE control may have a solid linkage but only if there is no remote throttle. You stated that you didn't "think" you are getting spark, have you checked for spark? And, if so, how did you do such? Have you replaced the ignition coil, perhaps, and didn't gap the coil to magnet clearance properly? Are you sure the kill circuit wire is routed and installed properly and not grounding out the ignition?
 
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Old 09-17-07, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by puey61 View Post
Again, I ask...Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion? The CHOKE control will not have a solid linkage, it may have had a remotely mounted control depending on the application but, generally, will not have any control related to such. The THROTTLE control may have a solid linkage but only if there is no remote throttle. You stated that you didn't "think" you are getting spark, have you checked for spark? And, if so, how did you do such? Have you replaced the ignition coil, perhaps, and didn't gap the coil to magnet clearance properly? Are you sure the kill circuit wire is routed and installed properly and not grounding out the ignition?
-Remotely mounted throttle control.
-One link on back of carb.
-I tested for spark by disconnecting the spak plug lead from the plug and held it approx. 1/8 (3 mm) from the spark plug and tried to start - there was no spark.
-I gapped the plug 0.030" (0.76 mm)
-The kill circuit wire was working previously and was just reattahed after control linkage was put back.
-Lined up the indicated (from manual) holes in the governor control plate.
 
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Old 09-17-07, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by puey61 View Post
Again, I ask...Onboard or remotely mounted throttle control? In other words, is there one or two solid links on the back side of the carburetor and speed control bracket in a vertical fashion? The CHOKE control will not have a solid linkage, it may have had a remotely mounted control depending on the application but, generally, will not have any control related to such. The THROTTLE control may have a solid linkage but only if there is no remote throttle. You stated that you didn't "think" you are getting spark, have you checked for spark? And, if so, how did you do such? Have you replaced the ignition coil, perhaps, and didn't gap the coil to magnet clearance properly? Are you sure the kill circuit wire is routed and installed properly and not grounding out the ignition?
P.S.
When the remote handle is in the Stop position there is contact with the shut off switch.
 
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Old 09-17-07, 12:17 PM
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I would have removed the spark plug (must be known good) and inserted such into the plug wire and then ground to the cylinder head and then check for spark but what you did should have yielded good results if you did have spark. So, the next step is to ensure you don't have a bare kill wire by removing the wire at the ignition coil and then checking for spark at the spark plug. If no spark at this point and you know the coil to magnet airgap is correct (.010") then it is safe to assume that the coil is defective and would need to be replaced. The Briggs part number for such is 398811. It sounds like you have the governor linkage correct so we'll not worry about that now and until you are able to run the engine once spark is achieved.
 
  #11  
Old 09-17-07, 04:29 PM
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I will try what was suggested.
Thank you.
Dorann
 
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Old 09-28-07, 10:14 AM
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Test for spark

Originally Posted by dorannj View Post
I will try what was suggested.
Thank you.
Dorann
I tried what was suggested,
When I disconnected the wire at the ignition coil and checked for spark.
There was spark.
I connected it back and there was no spark.
Dorann
 
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Old 09-28-07, 10:40 AM
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If there are no bare spots in the kill wire then you need to check all components to the kill circuit. I am going to guess, though, that it is a wire problem.
 
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