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JD68 lots of help needed


wresleu's Avatar
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10-10-07, 05:20 PM   #1  
JD68 lots of help needed

I happened across a John Deere 68 the other day. The woman wanted it out of her garage...so $50 later I had a broken down mower in the back of my truck. Here is the problem. She said it had been an "oil burner" for a couple years, and earlier this summer she was mowing and it started chugging and surging, so she tried to nurse it back to the shed, but it died before she got there.
I know this mower has an 8hp Briggs&Stratton engine on it, but I cannot find any identifiable tags on the motor whatsoever. Furthermore, I stopped at the local Deere dealer today, and they said that motor is discontinued, and without any further markings they can't be of any assistance as to what motor will retrofit it.
Here are the symptoms: It just clicks when you try to start it. The flywheel only moves about 1/8" when you turn the key. There is a good amount of oil at the base of the filler neck. The woman did say when she took the filler cap off....the smoke just rolled out of it. I'm assuming the motor just crapped out due to lack of lubrication. The flywheel does turn, however I can't really feel the upstroke/downstroke of the piston. I have to use channel locks/wrench to turn the flywheel.
I bought this thing knowing full well that it would be a "project"....but I"m at a loss as to where to start. Input would be greatly appreciated.
BTW: I'm new here..and this site is really cool.

 
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10-10-07, 07:00 PM   #2  
Welcome to the site. You'll find the pros here really know their stuff & have helped me & many others thru lots of repairs. Try this fron a previous post & we'll get you cranking & take it from there. Remember, "Nothing Runs Like A Deere", Good Luck, Roger. Lets try to get the starter to crank . With a test light (with a bulb, not the L.E.D. kind) hold the key in the start position, & check for voltage @ both large terminals of the starter relay. If yes, than check @ the starter. If yes, than move the ground of the test light to the batt positive terminal & again with the key in the start position, check the ground of the engine. These tests will tell us where the problem is, trusting you have a fully charged & tested battery & you said the starter relay was clicking. Let us know where you have hydro!! Roger

 
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10-10-07, 07:37 PM   #3  
The model, type and code should be on the shroud just above the sparkplug(a guess). Have a good one. Geo

 
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10-23-07, 12:30 PM   #4  
After a little deeper digging everything electrical related seems fine. The motor however is SHOT. I know very little about the intricacies of motor repair, so I enlisted a buddies help. The motor is essentially worthless, and according to Briggs there is not a short block kit available for this genre of motor. I still found no distinguishable identification tags of any sort on the motor. I know that it is a 8HP vertical 1" shaft Briggs. Do any of you know of where I could possibly find a similar motor, whether it be used or possibly new? I'd really like to keep this mower, even though I have only $50 invested in it at this point.

 
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10-23-07, 11:41 PM   #5  
Most any briggs engine of similar size should retro-fit fairly easily. The bolt pattern should be the same, and the wiring, although it may differ, should be easy to connect.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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10-24-07, 12:11 PM   #6  
I/we could help you out much better if we knew the exact model, type and code numbers off the engine. If this engine has the blower (flywheel) shroud then you'll have the numbers we need. I'll bet they're either painted over or rusted over. They will be stampped into the shroud and most likely just above the cylinder head (spark plug) area. If not there then just around the corner of the shroud. Grab some emery cloth and sand away. Let us know.

 
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10-24-07, 12:25 PM   #7  
Here is the best I can do for #'s or identification:
The mower is a JD 68 A680H-106059M
Briggs&Stratton 8HP
AT 3600 RPM
319CC
The only information the JD dealer could give me was "290707"


I've scoured this thing over several times, and apparently the shroud cover you speak of is missing. What I'm guessing is this used to be a recoil start motor at one point, and was converted over to ES???? Nonetheless, this is all the numbers I can find on the motor. Does that help any?

 
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10-24-07, 12:44 PM   #8  
The engine is a B & S model 191702, type 5632-01, code 80080411

This is what I was told the motor "should" be from a guy on the net, but he couldn't tell me how he knew/found this out. Does it make any sense? Do the numbers match up to a 8hp? I think my last post makes more sense...but who knows.
thanks again

 
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10-30-07, 03:46 PM   #9  
Nobody can offer up some advice?

 
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10-30-07, 08:29 PM   #10  
Without type and code numbers, we don't know any more other than it had a flathead 8hp briggs. You'll have to remove it and measure the crankshaft size, as that is the main thing to be concerned with. As I mentioned, switching to a different engine should be easy as long as the crankshaft size is the same. 8hp briggs engines are available.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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10-31-07, 02:30 AM   #11  
The Deere dealer was correct, there is no suggested exact replacement Briggs engine available nor is there a shortblock available. As Cheese indicated, you should have no trouble finding a suitable replacement engine (new or used), just be sure to measure your crankshaft's diameter and length. The keyway and center bolt threads should be standard and need not worry, necessarily, about these. Other concerns are muffler type, size and position as well as overall dimensions of the engine and how much room you have to play in the engine compartment. Most any 8 thru 12 horse engine should work, again, provided the crankshaft dimensions are the same or similar.

 
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11-01-07, 07:19 AM   #12  
I just checked an engine warehouse site, and they do not offer a drop in replacement motor, so you would have to do it yourself. Is your old motor beyond repair? If it just has bad compression, can't it be bored out and a new oversize piston with correct rings should get you running again at lower cost than a new motor.

 
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