Starter for tecumseh engine

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  #1  
Old 10-12-07, 03:23 PM
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Starter for tecumseh engine

My starter started smoking today. I keep having trouble starting the lawn tractor today (mtd 13a4662f129) . engine is a tecumesh 13 hp enduro xl/c ohv (OHV130 206820D))

starting last season, the engine would sometimes bounce back as it was trying to start. the engine would crank and then bounce back just a little, maybe 1/16 of a turn as it reached peak compression - judged from viewing top of engine spinning. it got worse and worse. the past couple of months it would bounce back and not start spinning again. the starter gear would remain out, engaged with the flywheel. I would turn the engine a little, past tdc, using my hands on the vent screen on top, the starter gear would disengage. Connections are good, Battery is fine. (does the same thing even with the battery charger on-gives up to 50 amp boost). This is the second starter thats gone bad and the tractors only about 6 years old. the starter cranks the engine fine with the spark plug out. however when trying to do a compression test, the max i was getting was 45psi, because the starter would not turn the engine past that.


Both starter motors ive had seemed to be a little weak for the engine. Is there different starters made for it? Is there one with a little more power avialable? What part number am I looking for ?

Thanks,
Bill
 
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  #2  
Old 10-12-07, 11:33 PM
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I'm guessing the valves haven't been adjusted in quite some time?

I think you're burning the starter up trying to turn an engine over with too much compression for the little starter to handle. It has compression release, but when the valves get a little too loose, the compression release is rendered inoperable. This makes the engine too hard to turn. The valves should be adjusted yearly...so give that a check before shelling out good $$ for a new starter. The fact that it smoked may mean it's too late, but give it a shot.
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-07, 12:01 PM
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Thanks cheese,

I thought that the compression release may be off, so thats why I put a compression tester on there while trying to start it. It only regestered 30 psi the first time it bounced back, 45psi after the second time.

actually something that might be helpful, last year it would sometimes give one loud bang after being shut off. hasnt done that this year.

How would I adjust the valves? What gaskets would I need to replace when doing so?

Thanks,
Bill
 
  #4  
Old 10-14-07, 12:29 AM
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Just a valve cover gasket. I put the engine just a tad past TDC and set the valve clearances to specs. I don't have the specs for your engine on hand, but can get them for you once I get to my books.
 
  #5  
Old 10-14-07, 06:19 PM
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Valves

Thats how I adjusted my valves as well. A touch past TDC and both for my Techcemsee were .005-.010" for range.
they are pretty tight-be careful.
 
  #6  
Old 10-16-07, 01:38 PM
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The overhead valve Tecumseh's clearances are set at .004".
 
  #7  
Old 10-20-07, 01:56 PM
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Well, I took the hood/front body off, and then the valve cover. The rocker arms and springs are exposed. The only way to adjust looks like the bolt through the middle of the rocker arm, with a nut on it before it goes into the engine. The engine is at TDC (using a pencil in the sparkplug hole). How do i measure the valve clearence? Do use the feeler guage between the rocker arm and the end of the valve? On a search of the internet, i found one site that said measure the valve clearence when the piston is 1/4'' past TDC. Should I adjust it at TDC or 1/4'' past?

Currently with the engine at TDC, there is a .005 clearence between the rocker arm and end of the intake valve, and a .004 clearence on the exhaust.

1/4" past TDC .005 clearence on intake, .003 exhaust

Could someone please help me with where to go from here? I haven't adjusted valves before.
 
  #8  
Old 10-21-07, 01:39 AM
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Sounds like you've got the correct clearances. You'd adjust at the end of the rocker arm where it meets the push-rod. The set screw and lock nut is where you adjust. Odd that the clearances would be spot on if they've never been adjusted before, but it was worth looking into anyway.

Apparently you have either a bad compression release, bad starter, corroded battery connections and/or cables, and/or fuel leaking into the cylinder when the engine is not running.
 
  #9  
Old 10-21-07, 06:06 PM
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you set them at 1/4 past tdc. It sounds like your compression release is not working. you should see a slight movement when you turn the engine over by hand with the plug released as the engine is coming up on the compression stroke after the intake valve closes. Most engines do this on the exhaust valve and some others on the intake valve. The 1/4 is to insure you are not still on the compression release part of the compression stroke. The compression release is on the cam shaft and you will have to pull the engine and remove the base to get the cam shaft out. Most of the time when the compression release is not working it is due to the spring breaking or coming unhooked. With a good ground directly to the engine and a battery jumper cable to the positive post if the battery and the other end you touch the starter post and spin the engine the same speed as with the switch. if not you have a voltage drop in the system somewhere.
 
  #10  
Old 04-11-10, 12:35 PM
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I know this is a old thread but it seems to match my problems.
I have a Huskee lawn tractor. My starter was smoking when i tried to start it and it only turned over once. Now all it is doing is clicking. Which i think it is the solenoid .
So is my starter gone? Will i need to replace the solenoid ,plus get the valves adjusted?
 
  #11  
Old 08-26-11, 11:46 AM
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Hey guys, Last time I repalced the starter, and it worked alright for awhile. Now I'm having the same problem again where the starter does not have enough power to get past the compression stroke. It tries and bounces back. I have tried many times, but have not been able to get it started this year. It would usually bounce back twice last year before it finally turned over and started. I tried charging the battery and using a 50 amp jump start, with no success. I tried jumping it off of a car battery with no success. So today, I went back to this thread, and tried jumping the starter to the car battery directly, which seemed to be a little bit stronger, but still not enough to get past the compression stroke. It's on its third or fourth starter already. I want to get it runnng again, but I'm sick of replacing starters, they are not cheap.

Any Ideas?
 
  #12  
Old 08-26-11, 12:35 PM
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Yep, you either have the timing advanced or the compression release isn't working. Fixing either would be alot cheaper than replacing starters.

If this is a post 1986 model of engine, check the flywheel to make sure the key/slot on the the flywheel/crank are all lined up. If that's OK, mark the top of compression stroke on the flywheel and crank case (or somewhere you can align the two marks. With the head pulled see if the exhaust valve is slightly open when the marks are aligned.

If the engine is pre-1986 the points could be set too far apart. Go under flywheel go to the points and check the gap.
 
  #13  
Old 09-12-11, 11:44 PM
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My started quit on mt Toro 8-25, I took it apart and found a brush that was not making contact with the armeture.
 
  #14  
Old 11-22-13, 07:40 AM
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Bounce Back.

I have a Mtd 13 hp with the same engine in it. When I go to start it, it kinda looks as though the engine bounces back against the starter. Sparks come from the starter teeth and flywheel area. If I supply a jump box to it, it cranks faster and eventually does start. Choke seems to make it worse, and this didn't happen til after I washed the tractor. I did take the spark plug out and make sure no water got into the cylinder. I see a bunch of replies about checking valve clearance, but I am not sure what 1/4 past tdc means. Does this mean a 1/4 inch or 1/4 turn past tdc, and I was hoping I could get some clarifications of the compression release. Where is it located and what should I be looking for and how do I fix this. Pulling the engine scares me alittle. Oh and I didn't see a timing adjustment, can someone help me find the timing adjust ment. PLEASE HELP
 
  #15  
Old 11-23-13, 06:05 PM
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It has no timing adjustment. The piston should be 1/4 inch past TDC to set the valves. The compression release is part of the camshaft. It rarely needs repair/replacement. Adjusting the valves gets it working again.

Does yours smoke a good puff of black smoke when it starts? Does the oil in it smell like gas?
 
  #16  
Old 11-27-13, 02:45 PM
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Driving me crazy.

Well we ruled out the starter by replacing it with a brand new one. Did a voltage drop to make sure the connections are good. With a new starter, the crank actually rotates backwards when it comes up on tdc. With a jump box, the crank rotates back wards from tdc then starter does overcome the compression, and then starts, no smoke. Runs good actually. I checked the valves clearance like 4 times. I found out that the magnet is not tdc on this engine, using a screw drive I found tdc, went slight past it and checked it. .004, it was spot on, re-adjusted to .003 last time to see if possibly my feeler gauges weren't accurate. With the spark plug removed and looking at the exhaust rocker arm, I can feel the slack in the rocker arm disappear on the compression stroke but can't really see any movement. Its kinda like the camshaft is worn down. Didn't smell any gas in the oil. If this was a car it acts just like an engine with the timing set too advanced. Is there a way to tell if the crankshaft key is damaged with out pulling the flywheel with a timing light? Also using a dial indicator what kind of movement should I see from the exhaust valve during the compression stroke ( when the compression relief is working).
 
  #17  
Old 11-27-13, 03:43 PM
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Sounds like you might have a partially sheared flywheel key, remove the flywheel and check the key. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #18  
Old 11-29-13, 09:29 AM
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I want a briggs and strat! lol

Removed the flywheel and the key is fine. I am thinking about checking the valve clearance one more time. I saw that you guys suggest checking the clearance between the rocker arm and the push rod, I checked it between the rocker arm and the valve stem. I found tdc to be at 2 oclock considering the coil is 12 oclock. Does this sound right? Again, if I was sure the compression relief valve wasn't working or worn down I would pull the engine but didn't have any problems til I washed it. Ran fine and started great all summer. The deck belt slipped off towards the end of summer and I used a spare lawn mower to finish for the rest of the fall. I replaced a rear tire, got the belt on and it started fine then. Went to give it a wash and wax, after that it wouldn't start correctly. Any idea what kind of movement I would get from the exhaust pushrod when the compression release is working, I would like to put a dial indicator on it and check to make sure its not something else?
 
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