broken head bolt

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Old 10-23-07, 11:55 AM
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broken head bolt

I was trying to remove the head cover to clean the carbon excess on top of the piston when one of the bolts broke , I quit after I broke the bolt.is there any way to remove these bolts and also without breaking them.any ideas on how or if any way to fix this problem,
 
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Old 10-23-07, 12:13 PM
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Whenever we have head bolts that are questionable whether or not they'll cooperate we run the engine to full operating temperature (to expand the aluminum block) and keep our finger crossed. As far as getting out the broken bolt, you gotta hope that it broke above the deck so that you can grind it flat in order to center punch it DEAD CENTER and then drill it with the appropriate drill bit size and then use a good screw extractor (Snap-On makes fantastic ones) along with a good penetrant (B'Laster is my pick). Worst case, it can be drilled oversize (to 3/8") and install a new set of threads (I like Recoil brand - available at any Fastenal store) and also drill out the respective hole in the cylinder head to fit the oversize bolt.
 
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Old 10-25-07, 11:28 AM
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broken head bolt

Thanks puey61 I'll give it a try and I'll cross my fingers hoping it will come out. I'll post back with the results
 
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Old 10-25-07, 09:27 PM
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I don't know if you have a left-hand twist drill bit, but I use one to drill out broken bolts. A lot of the time it grabs the bolt and backs it out with the turning of the drill.
 
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Old 10-26-07, 10:49 AM
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broken head bolt

i don't have a left hand twisl drill bit,where can purchase one
I am going to sears today to see about getting a screw/bolt out remover.any suggestions.I tried getting to the broken bolt but it seems to me that when i begin to remove the others it does'nt feel right when i start taking the others out trouble with 3 and 1 broken
 
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Old 10-27-07, 05:25 AM
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With any more than one broken (no more torque) head bolt, you will likely not be able to run the engine. Have you, or are you able to, run the engine before attempting removal? If you can't run the engine or have no luck even if you can run the engine then you'll have two options: 1- take your chance with breaking the bolts and worry about removal of them once the head is off; 2- strip down the shrouding to the point of exposing the entire circumference of the cylinder and use a propane (nothing hotter) torch and heat each individual bolt area of the block (knowing when to say when with the heat is difficult to explain as it is possible to over-heat the aluminum) and hope this helps in removing each bolt.
 
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Old 10-27-07, 09:40 PM
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Check with your local small hardware store. They can probably get you a left hand twist drill bit if you want one. Thinking more about this, it probably won't do you much good in this particular situation because if the twisting motion of your wrench wouldn't back out the bolt, then a drill bit won't do it either. This kind of bit usually works on bolts that are broken off, but not siezed by the threads.
 
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Old 10-29-07, 10:46 AM
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broken bolt

Thanks for the info ,I will give it a try on taking these out ,I tried smoothing the bolt to center punch it and get it reacy to remove .Do You think the tool that sears sells would take this out?it seems to Me that the bolts have gotten weak over time .if all fells I would have to dissasemble the whole engine ?also when the engine is taken apart do i have to do anything special with the governer inside . I've had a bad luck on putting this back ,the mechanical governer should be moving side to side even with the arm slightly touching from the control arm.
 
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Old 10-29-07, 11:53 AM
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You won't need to disassemble the engine that far to do the head bolt removal that you'll need to worry about the governor. At most, as previously noted, you may have to remove the tin work around the cooling fins to expose the cylinder block in order to heat the individual bolt areas around the circumference of the block.
 
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