Craftsman Leaf Blower Won't Run

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  #1  
Old 10-28-07, 05:29 AM
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Craftsman Leaf Blower Won't Run

I have a Craftsman Leaf Blower model # 359.794960. I can't keep it running. I have read all the posts in the forum regarding Craftsman Leaf Blower and here is my story.

The blower will run for a short period of time and then die. Seems to run best at 1/2 choke. When running seems to run better when shaking the blower from side to side harder than you would normally.

I have tried:
1. Fresh fuel.
2. Buy pass the fuel filter. Took it off.
3. Did notice the loose bolts on cylinder block and tightened. I found these loose the first time I had apart. I thought that was the problem and put back together and the thing runs the same no difference.
4. Inspected the carb. Not real sure what could be wrong there.
5. The primer bulb does not seem to be the same as I remember it. When pumping it, it does not hold a "charge" of fuel. It does not stay full or hard if you know what I mean.
Could this be my problem? When I had the carb off there are 2 fuel lines that go into the carb. When I push in on the bulb with my finger covering the 2 fuel line inlets you would think that the bulb would stay flat or not go back to it's original shape but it does go back almost like there is a air leak. Could the diaphram be bad?

Anyone have any ideas?

My next leaf blower will be a Stihl.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-28-07, 09:27 AM
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The primer bulb is suppose to pull fuel through the carb to allow fresh fuel in the carb for quicker starts. the outlet on the primer is the return to the tank. the other fuel line with the filter goes directly to the carb. If you do not get a good charge of fuel into the primer bulb after about 3 to 5 pumps or it is foamy then you are drawing in air from a leak in the carb or fuel lines. The bulb will not get hard but should be full of fuel.
 
  #3  
Old 10-28-07, 03:52 PM
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It sounds as if a carb clean & a new kit is in order. As Camino Kid has pointed out, check the fuel lines closley, disassemble the carb & soak well in a bath, clean again with a spray cleaner & blow out with compressed air, than install a kit, a new primer bulb & all diaghragms & gaskets. Make sure to use you're old meatering lever or adjust the new one with the proper gage. Good luck, Roger
 
  #4  
Old 10-28-07, 05:02 PM
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Thanks. What should I soak in? Regular auto carb cleaner?

What is the meatering lever?

I have had this thing apart 3 or 4 times already.
 
  #5  
Old 10-28-07, 07:31 PM
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Have you tried opening the high speed screw a bit?
 
  #6  
Old 10-28-07, 07:36 PM
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The cleaner to use is a carb cleaner that you soak everything metal in. Puey uses Napa 6204. I use a kleen-flo product 'cus I can get delivered to the door & my car doesen't smell like a garage, LOL!! Have you changed the diaghrams yet. They get stiff & stop working over time, even if they still look good. The meatering lever hooks to the needle valve & the measurement for this lever is very important. Kinda like seting the float in a regular carb. Let us know if it's a Warlbro, Zama etc carb & the numbers from it & the pros here will get you the numbers for a kit. Good luck, Roger
 
  #7  
Old 10-30-07, 05:41 PM
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Well it is a Zama carb and the numbers are as best I can see, C1Q-W11E-57A.

Any help with locating a carb kit would be great. Would my local chain saw shop have one?
 
  #8  
Old 10-31-07, 02:29 PM
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Hey hopkinsr2

can you help me with some numbers?



Originally Posted by jam3000 View Post
Well it is a Zama carb and the numbers are as best I can see, C1Q-W11E-57A.

Any help with locating a carb kit would be great. Would my local chain saw shop have one?
 
  #9  
Old 10-31-07, 05:38 PM
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Most chainsaw shops, lawn & garden power equipment shops should have access to the zama carb by the numbers you have. Oregon (silverstreak), Stens and others have kits for this carb that if the shop does not have in stock, they can order.
 
  #10  
Old 11-03-07, 08:38 AM
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The Zama # are RB-47 for the rebuild kit & 0057025 for the primer bulb. Roger
 
  #11  
Old 11-04-07, 05:31 AM
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I wouldn't waste too much money on trying to rebuid the
carb, as you have already discovered the problem, which
happens to almost every one of these blowers.
The cylinder bolts come loose, and when they do, large
chunks of gasket get blown away, and just retightening
will not "fix" it, as these gaps in missing gasket material
still leak air. The only repair is to disassemble, replace the bad gaskets, and use locktite on reassembly. I would
recommend removing the muffler first, and looking at the
piston for damage, if you see any, throw it away, as the
cost of parts to fix it would cost more than a new one.


Fish
 
  #12  
Old 11-04-07, 08:17 AM
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Just to clarify, the Napa bath cleaner is part number 6402, not 6204.
 
  #13  
Old 11-19-07, 02:37 PM
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Fish you mean?

by gasket you mean the gaskets that come with a caarb kit? correct?


Originally Posted by Fisher40037 View Post
I wouldn't waste too much money on trying to rebuid the
carb, as you have already discovered the problem, which
happens to almost every one of these blowers.
The cylinder bolts come loose, and when they do, large
chunks of gasket get blown away, and just retightening
will not "fix" it, as these gaps in missing gasket material
still leak air. The only repair is to disassemble, replace the bad gaskets, and use locktite on reassembly. I would
recommend removing the muffler first, and looking at the
piston for damage, if you see any, throw it away, as the
cost of parts to fix it would cost more than a new one.


Fish
 
  #14  
Old 11-19-07, 04:10 PM
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No, the cylinder has a gasket, and when the blower has been run with the cylinder loose, usually a chunk or two of the gasket will be blown away or sucked in, but total
disassembly of the blower is required to replace it.

Fish
 
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