5 hp Briggs horizontal won't start
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5 hp Briggs horizontal won't start
I am trying to fix a go kart that sat for about 1 year for my great nephews. The body work is done, but the engine is giving me problems. I cleaned out the gas tank, rebuilt the carb, and changed the oil. I started the engine and it ran okay, but was missing. I used some OMC engine tuner on it, changed the plug and now it won't start. I shot some starting fluid into the carb, but only got a pop. I then pulled the head, and cleaned the valves. I put it back together and still no run. The plug is getting fire, but I can't get the engine to even pop now. I am going to pull the head again and grind the valves. Anybody got the settings for the valves. Could the new plug just not be firing under compression?
Briggs HP Model135202 Type 0015 01 Code 9605 14
Briggs HP Model135202 Type 0015 01 Code 9605 14




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Intake valve clearance is .006" and exhaust clearance is .010". Did you install a new head gasket upon reassembly? Did you torque the head? How did the condition of the cylinder wall look? I've never used the OMC stuff or any other "miracle" engine cure for that matter because I subscribe to the rule that the only two things that belong in the combustion chamber and carburetor are gasoline and air and the ocassional fuel stabilizer, when needed for storage. I believe that if you have a carburetor problem you should remove it and recondition it.
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re 5HP Briggs
I am trying to fix a go kart that sat for about 1 year for my great nephews. The body work is done, but the engine is giving me problems. I cleaned out the gas tank, rebuilt the carb, and changed the oil. I started the engine and it ran okay, but was missing. I used some OMC engine tuner on it, changed the plug and now it won't start. I shot some starting fluid into the carb, but only got a pop. I then pulled the head, and cleaned the valves. I put it back together and still no run. The plug is getting fire, but I can't get the engine to even pop now. I am going to pull the head again and grind the valves. Anybody got the settings for the valves. Could the new plug just not be firing under compression?
Briggs HP Model135202 Type 0015 01 Code 9605 14

Briggs HP Model135202 Type 0015 01 Code 9605 14




#5
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If the new plug wasn't firing under load I would suspect the coil. May want to use a fine sandpaper and clean up the flywheel and the coil and see if that would improve the spark.
Coils go out. Had one go out on my B&S lawnmower.
If there wasn't any spark at all, I'd look for an exposed cut off swith wire.
Coils go out. Had one go out on my B&S lawnmower.
If there wasn't any spark at all, I'd look for an exposed cut off swith wire.
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In some respect David has a point with the ignition. An engine requires more ignition strength to fire the plug gap under compression. Sometimes you will have fire at the plug when checked by grounding and checking externally but once installed you will have insufficient spark. The best way to determine if you have sufficient ignition strength is to use an inline spark tester. This may be your trouble but I'll bet you have a valve clearance issue, specifically no clearance on the exhaust valve and you would then have to grind the stem to gain the required clearance.
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In some respect David has a point with the ignition. An engine requires more ignition strength to fire the plug gap under compression. Sometimes you will have fire at the plug when checked by grounding and checking externally but once installed you will have insufficient spark. The best way to determine if you have sufficient ignition strength is to use an inline spark tester. This may be your trouble but I'll bet you have a valve clearance issue, specifically no clearance on the exhaust valve and you would then have to grind the stem to gain the required clearance.
Anyway I still am going to check the valves and mike the cylinder. Thanks for your input
Itch [/I]
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re 5HP Briggs
Intake valve clearance is .006" and exhaust clearance is .010". Did you install a new head gasket upon reassembly? Did you torque the head? How did the condition of the cylinder wall look? I've never used the OMC stuff or any other "miracle" engine cure for that matter because I subscribe to the rule that the only two things that belong in the combustion chamber and carburetor are gasoline and air and the ocassional fuel stabilizer, when needed for storage. I believe that if you have a carburetor problem you should remove it and recondition it.
#9
The intake valve is what I was getting at when I asked if you had any compression (maybe you missed my post?). Common on these engines when water is allowed into them through the carburetor. It's most likely stuck and may work loose with some patience and penetrating oil, or it may be a bigger problem if it doesn't come loose.
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The intake valve is what I was getting at when I asked if you had any compression (maybe you missed my post?). Common on these engines when water is allowed into them through the carburetor. It's most likely stuck and may work loose with some patience and penetrating oil, or it may be a bigger problem if it doesn't come loose.